Starter Replacement \ Removing Transmission Cooler Lines

[scott72]

This is probably a stupid question but I need to replace my starter, and my cooler lines are right underneath, my headers to the side of it. Not much room to work with.

Am I going to need to drain quite a bit of my tranny fluid beforehand, or will most of the fluid be cycled back to the tranny when cold?

Maybe buy some fittings to plug up the radiator side real quick once removed?

Also, I noticed some people saying the fittings on the tranny side are hard to remove with regular open ended wrenches. Am I going to need the crows foot wrenchs to get in there?

Haven't tried to remove them yet, but my starter started making a nasty grinding noise when hot.

Thanks for the help.

[BOOB]

The wrenches you need are called "line wrenches". They're like a boxed wrench with a small peice missing. An open end wrench will just about always round off your fittings. You can get them pretty cheap at any parts store. A couple vacume caps on the lines and some plugs in the radiator will do the trick. You MAY lose a bit of fluid but not much.

[cdowns]

i've never removed tranny lines when changing a starter// there should be enough flex to work around them

[scott72]

hmmm... seemed like they didn't want to move much... and I didn't want to bend em... I'll check again when I get home.

[Hair]

Originally Posted by cdowns

i've never removed tranny lines when changing a starter// there should be enough flex to work around them

Dido

Also, try EVERYTHING before you take the lines loose from the tranny. My personal experience is that they are always a booger to get up in there tight and not leak, even if you do have a line wrench. On some cars I've even had to take the cross member out and lower the tranny some to be able to get to them. Leave em alone if you can.

You'd be better off taking them loose at the radiator and allowing yourself some slack to slight bend them out of the way. DONT CRIMP THEM up.

[junkyardjohn]

Originally Posted by cdowns

i've never removed tranny lines when changing a starter// there should be enough flex to work around them

I'M WITH CDOWNS ON THIS, & FROM THE PIC. IT DOESN'T LOOK TOO BAD. I'D BE WILLING TO BET ANY DECENT AUTO REPAIR SHOP COULD REPLACE THE STARTER, WITHOUT REMOVING ANYTHING FOR OH LETS SEE.. $80 OR $90 AN HOUR. GET YOUR FLOOR JACK & A COUPLE OF JACKSTANDS & DO IT. NOTHING MAJICAL. IF YOUR NOT JUST A LITTLE BIT MECHANICAL... GET A BUDDY THAT IS TO HELP YOU. IF YOU CAN'T OR DON'T WANT TO... PAY SOMEONE WHO WILL. AUTO REPAIR SHOPS NEED THE MONEY TOO. IF YOU CAN REPLACE SPARK PLUGS... YOU DAMNSURE CAN REPLACE A STARTER. JOHN

[jamesi20]

I believe the wrenches you are looking for are called flare nut wrenches.Here's a link to some photos http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...nch+set&vName=

[mclairmo]

I also agree that you should not remove the lines from the tranny if you can avoid it. Also, do NOT use cheapo flare wrenches from China, they are not machined to the exact correct size, they will expand slightly when used because of the cheap metal used and will possibly round off the nut. Ask me how I know. Do yourself a favor and buy good quality flare wrenches made in the USA and machined to the exact correct size.

[scott72]

I think I would go with Craftsman if I can find a set... but damn hopefully I can get it off without removing them from what everyone is saying.

[Wootdog]

A little more advice here. With the fact that you have headers. I would go to the local auto parts house and see if they have a starter solenoid cover for your starter. It is in the help section of most auto parts houses. It is less than 10 bucks and will make your starter last alot longer. Since I have put them on my truck and car with headers, the starters last alot longer. This way the heat from the headers does not cook the solenoid. That is what makes it hard to start when the engine is warm.
Kerry

[scott72]

Here is what I am looking at.....

Not sure if this is the normal routing of those lines or what, but they are not moving enough to drop this starter.

I guess my next step is to buy some flare nut wrenches and unscrew them from the radiator side to see if I can get some more movement and hope for the best. ><

[Shyguy]

I find that it is handy to have someone help when changing starters like that since they are so darn big and heavy.

The problem I usually have is holding the starter up after the bolts are removed trying to disconnect the wires.

When the starter goes out on my 454 I am going with a small high torque replacement.

The way my headers run under the starter I am afraid I will have to unbolt the headers from the right side to be able to get the starter out which means I will probably have to cut the pipe loose from the header since my son welded the pipe to the header.

Good luck.

Danny

[hounddogs!]

Tip for making the install of the new starter much easier:

Replace the factory bolts with new ones 1-1.5" longer (I don't remember for sure what you'll need) and a nut/lock washer.
Rather than running the bolt through the ear on the starter and into the block, start the bolts from the block side. Chasing the threads first is always a good idea.
Once you've done all three, you'll have studs pointing at the back of the truck, making it stupid easy to hang the starter in place.
Install L/W and nut, do the wires and you're done.

[jorgensensc]

Also one thing I have found after you do take it down. One of two options. Either extend all of your wires so that you can lower the starter to the ground, or my pwrsonal favorite, get a weatherproof harness connector and cut all the wires above the starter, wire them in the connector. That way when (if) you need to remove it again, you just unhook the connector, and drop it down. this trick also works well with engine wires going to the cab and the alternator wires. Makes removing an engine quick and (relatively) painless. Hope this helps.
Shawn

[cdowns]

i dont know why anybody would remove the starter bolts b4 disconnecting the wires??

i've had motors with headers that i've had to remove the starter by removing bolts then pass the starter up the side of the block and remove by the front of the motor// pain in the butt didnt have to remove the exhaust tho, on one i need to loosen the header bolts to gain enough clearance

[jorgensensc]

Originally Posted by cdowns

i dont know why anybody would remove the starter bolts b4 disconnecting the wires??

Sometimes its really hard to get to the nuts. especially from the top for us short guys.
Shawn

[67vetteal]

Go with the Hi Torque Mini Starter. Headers and Trans lines will no longer be a problem. Those Trans lines are most likely clamped to the bottom of the Oil Pan. Remove that clamp and they will flex all over the place. Al W.

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by jorgensensc

Sometimes its really hard to get to the nuts. especially from the top for us short guys.
Shawn

i've never tried removing wires from the top ,, it always looked too hard to do

i use a 1/4inch drive palm rachet with long extension to clear the front of the starter and found doing it blind takes about a minute to remove or install the two wires

[Shyguy]

Originally Posted by cdowns

i've never tried removing wires from the top ,, it always looked too hard to do

i use a 1/4inch drive palm rachet with long extension to clear the front of the starter and found doing it blind takes about a minute to remove or install the two wires

Great, it seems I learn something new every time I check this site. I never thought about using a palm ratchet.

I guess I better buy one.

Thanks for the info.

Danny

[faribran]

dont forget to disconnect the BATTERY..
and it looks like u should be able to squeeze the starter out by the tranny lines... we have seen worse..

[scott72]

haha, yeah already disconnected the battery.

thanks for all the pointers guys..... going to try as soon as I have a chance to drop this thing.

hopefully I can squeeze it through those lines... also might check for that clamp you said might be holding them down.

[piecesparts]

I have moved my tranny lines to the side numerous times on my truck. I have headers and I used to run a full-sized starter for a long time, but now I use high-torque starters for the heat-sink problems. loosen the starter, back it out of the hole and turn it upright and pull it downward past the tubing lines.

[mclairmo]

If it were me, i would just bend the lines to one side or pull them over to allow the starter to squeeze by. Those lines will flex and bend a lot since they are so long and made of standard steel, nothing super hard or brittle.

[scott72]

Thanks for the help all... You were right, I was able to slide it past the cooler lines.

Pieces parts method did the trick.

Was a pain with one person, but I had fun anyway.

[junkyardjohn]

CONGRATULATIONS... NOW DOESN'T THAT GIVE YOU A FEELING OF ACOMPLISHMENT. THATS WHAT I LIKE ABOUT WORKING ON THESE OLD TRUCKS. EVEN AN OLD CRIPPLED UP HILLBILLY LIKE ME CAN FIGURE OUT HOW EVERYTHING ON THESE WORKS. I TEND TO LEARN FROM DOING. THE ONLY THING ON THESE TRUCKS THAT I DON'T DO IS REBUILDING TRANSMISSIONS & REARENDS & CARBURATORS.THE FEW THAT I NEED I USSUALLY BARTER FOR THE LABOR. I ALWAYS FIGURE THAT JUST BECAUSE I'VE NEVER DONE SOMETHING.. DOESN'T MEEN I CAN'T DO IT. NOW YOU'LL NEVER HAVE TO PAY SOMEONE TO PUT A STARTER IN FOR YOU. JOHN