Fuel Line question

[JointTech]

I removed my stock tank and the metal lines that go into the cab.

I have a saddle tank that had a rubber fuel line going to the switch beside the drivers side seat.

I have the metal line halfway back the frame but its on the opposite side of the saddle tank meaning I have to go across the driveshaft to get to the original steel line.

So my question is should I just run a long rubber hose up and over to the steel line and zip tie it in place so it doesnt drag on anything?

Or should I bend some steel tube to go across the cab and just use a small peice of rubber between the end of that and the original steel line?

Or should I bypass the rear steel line altogether and figure some other way to get from the saddle tank to the fuel pump?

[cdowns]

long lengths of lazyman rubber fuel lines are a great way to burn your truck to the ground

[JointTech]

boo hiss.
now i have to figure out how to bend line.

[SS Tim]

The factory lines used hose for the aux tank/s crossover and the valve. While hoses do deteriorate adding connections using tubing and hose has issues as well.

So you can do it like the factory with hoses.
OR
Add in tube and connect with hoses.

The rub comes in on making the transition. Are you going to flair the ends and the screw on a hose barb or are you capable of beading the tubing?
Just slipping it on straight tubing and clamping is the worst possible connection.
Quality fuel rated hose should live a long life but it needs to be protected from heat and abrasion. With periodic inspection you should be fine.

[JointTech]

hey tim, I remember you posting a pic from a service manual or something that showed the installation of factory saddle tanks. Does it show the path the passenger side took getting over to the valve beside the driver? If that was rubber I could follow that path in reverse.

I just ordered a tubing flaring tool and bender.

But I just had a thought. It said it was for copper and soft steel tubing. Is fuel line harder? Do I need pro grade tools to make a falre or bend it?

[MSHax]

Originally Posted by cdowns

long lengths of lazyman rubber fuel lines are a great way to burn your truck to the ground

That's a little dramatic!

Lines do deteriorate, but it's not like it happens over days, it's typically over decades. I had a Camaro I ran rubber lines from my rear mounted electric fuel pump for almost 8 years. There are many reasons NOT to use rubber for long length lines. Typically it's due to other items that come in contact with the fuel lines, such as rubbing on the frame, or accidentally jacking up the truck on it. Believe or not, a tiny bit of wiggling of a rubber line on a piece of metal can cut through pretty quickly. Sure you can secure it, and run it, but why risk it? Your best bet is to purchase some metal FUEL line, and learn how to bend. I stress fuel line because so many people think brake line is the same, it's not. Brake line is much thicker to handle higher pressure, and is an absolute pain to bend, fuel line is relatively easy.

[SS Tim]

Right, that picture was from the assembly manual and one of several pages for the NL2 Aux tank. You would do well following the factory configuration with hardline or hose. Maybe later I can dig mine out but I'm heading into town. If someone who has the assembly manual on CD could post the picture it would speed things up.

You tools should be OK for line forming and flaring a limited number of parts. So you are planning on flaring and using hose barbs with clamps then?

[JointTech]

OK good so brake line is the hard stuff.
Yea if I do steel it will be rubber from pickup tube to flared steel to go over the drive shaft to flared end. Rubber to filter then rubber to original rear steel line
Posted via Mobile Device

[JointTech]

well i just had another thought. A flaring tool just flares the end to use with a fitting...

What tool makes the bubble or bump or whatever its called, at the end so a hose clamp doesnt slip off?

[1972_Buford]

I had the option for saddle bags and I believe one of the previous owners tried to put in the plumbing for it. I did have a use for it and my fuel lines and tank were all full of gunk. I coated the fuel tank with redkote and ran new lines. I ran a steel line from the tank out of the cab to the fuel rail on the passenger side. Then I added a inline fuel filter (fram) with rubber hose supplied with the filter. Then I used all steel up to the pump where it goes back to rubber line for a few inches. Works for me. I can take pics if you want. I also used double clamps on the fuel line where I spliced in the fuel filter. There isnt a lot of pressure in there and it holds just fine.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by JointTech

well i just had another thought. A flaring tool just flares the end to use with a fitting...

What tool makes the bubble or bump or whatever its called, at the end so a hose clamp doesnt slip off?

The flare without a fitting will hold the clamp. The flareing tool you bought does it do double flares if so it will handle brake line

[Rufton]

FWIW my 351 4BBL crate engine has OEM 5/16" steel lines upstream of pump and 5/16" has never fuel staved engine. If I started from scratch I'd go 3/8" just to be safe. When bending line remember not to bend sharp enough to cause significant restriction. SS is nice but it is harder to work with. It would be good to measure fuel pump flow rate after installing lines.

[JointTech]

i havent actually ordered it yet I see... I thought I clicked buy the otehr night but I always think ill think of one more thing to buy tomorrow...
any wya heres what i have in my cart.
TEKTON 6490 Double Flaring Tool Set, 10-Piece -... OEM 25179 Tubing Bender - Amazon.com
says it does a double flare.

So a normal flare will hold the clamp on. cool. But for my brain whats that type of flare called with just the bump?

[Ol Blue K20]

A bump seriously I dont know but I always use a double flare because the rolled edge is nice and smooth

[Rufton]

Russell makes easy to connect AN fuel lines for racing applications. Might have a look but may be too pricey. Summit and others sells them.

[JointTech]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

A bump seriously I dont know but I always use a double flare because the rolled edge is nice and smooth

lol. ok ill go ahead and click buy. Im not in a rush because I had to order carriage bolts to hold the tank up. $54 each for 14" stainless. I went with Zinc... 6 bucks.

So my plan is going to be come from the "bumped" fuel pickup tube coming out of the tank with rubber hose. I think it was 5/16 but ill double check.

Then double flare a piece of steel tube on both ends to go across the bed over the driveshaft. Ill use the bender and not bend to tight.

Then Ill hook into the original fuel filter with short rubber. then from there to the fuel pump/carb will all be factory.

If Im feeling it I may run steel all the way to the pump and then all the way to the carb but Im not sure I want to put in much effort as Im still iffy on an engine swap.