Lifting off my cab... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**passthebuck** · 01-28-2003, 01:15 AM

I'm just wondering how much work is involved in pulling the cab off of our trucks. I'm planning on bringing my truck into the city soon & pulling the cab off. It's an (almost) zero option '67/straight 6/3 on the tree. I think four buddies can lift off the cab (right?), but how much un-hooking is there? Brakes? Wiring harness? Cab mounts? Steering linkage? Shifter linkage? Parking brake? Fenders? Gastank/fuel lines? Am I forgetting anything? Many thanks in advance for any advice you can give...

72MARIO · 01-28-2003, 01:19 AM

Front Clip has 6 bolts you might want to take the doors off might save your backs. Mario

67cst · 01-28-2003, 01:59 AM

i cant remember exactly what me and my dad did, but with a cab fully gutted except for rear window and front winshield was removed with my dad and i, it was heavy but doable

jostrans68 · 01-28-2003, 03:07 AM

Engine hoist with a 4x4 on top of it. I flipped the boom so the slot for chain was on top and i put two lag bolts in 4x to drop thru the slot. The with doors off run the 4x in the cab put it all the way forward in door opening from side to side and center the pivot point (lag Bolts) in the center of the Cab. then jack it up and it rolls easy I put mine on by myself...

O'l Buck · 01-28-2003, 03:20 AM

Loader tractor and 2 4" nylon straps.......no problem. Take the hood, cowl vent and front clip off first, makes everything else easier to get at. Unbolt the master cylinder, you can leave the lines hooked up if you're careful. I'd pull the distributor cap too jut to prevent accidental expense, heater hoses, fuel lines, unplug the wiring harness from the firewall. UNHOOK THE OIL PRESSURE LINE. hoses for the wiper washers, steering column, just disconnect the center link from the main part of the column, and pull the clips for the shift linkage and disconnect the shift rods. Unhook the clutch linkage, take the cable off the park brake pedal and pull it through the firewall. Pretty easy to take the cab off.

Tynee · 01-28-2003, 10:27 AM

Are you gutting the cab anyway? If you are, I found out last weekend that 2 men can lift a gutted cab easily. I bet it didn't weigh 250 lbs.

chevy2racr · 01-28-2003, 11:55 AM

ol' buck,DITTO man, wegot the 4" straps too, cab was clear full excep gas was out, hdtwo brake drums, two ront disks, hood springs and other junk in it too, no proble lifting :-D

**passthebuck** · 01-28-2003, 03:52 PM

Thanks for the tips... I dont have access to a front end loader & my engine hoist is a fairly low-lift unit... I am going to pull the seat, dorrs & tank out before hand - 4 guys & some 2by4's SOUNDS about right.

I'm gonna put in new rockers, new floor boards & cab corners - I plan on laying the cab on its side on a block of styrofoam - good idea? Does anybody see any "hitches" in that plan?

>X< · 01-28-2003, 04:09 PM

isnt there a ground strap to disconnect??????

7T1BURB · 01-28-2003, 04:10 PM

Here's a thought BEFORE you take the doors off...IF the doors close relatively "good" before disassembly you might consider drilling "pilot holes" through each of the hinges (where the hinges attach to the cowl and where hinges attach to door)....this simplifies a real troublesome task of realigning doors during reassembly...they may not be "perfect" when going back on, but at least you'll be closer and readjusting is made a little bit simpler. Realigning doors is generally a painful task!! Some folks don't want to drill holes in their hinges, but its a thought that you might consider....and make sure the doors are on (or a jig installed) and aligned before installing the rocker panels so everything lines up....guess how I know?? Been there, done that and got the T-Shirt!! Good Luck.

cableguy0 · 01-28-2003, 05:43 PM

actually tynee a gutted cab is about 560 pounds i took mine to the dump and left 560 pounds lighter the onyl thing left in the cab was the windshield

Figment412 · 01-28-2003, 05:51 PM

There was a ground strap on mine...we did not find that till after the cab was already off. It took 3 people 4 hours at most to completely stip my truck. Just the cab itself was not to bad. One of the cab mounts were rusted though an had to bust out the torch to cut them off.

Tynee · 01-28-2003, 06:11 PM

560? Wow, I never would've thought that. I must be stronger than I thought, or all the wieght was on the other guy. hmmm.

johnw67 · 01-28-2003, 07:38 PM

hey guys weight cab is porportionate to amout of rust on it.

72c10 · 01-28-2003, 08:24 PM

when I pulled mine I gutted it but left the doors and glass in place and four of us lifted it and put it an a dolly that I made out of 2x4's that suported it where the cab mounts are. works great, has wheels so I can move it around and I dont have to wory about the cab twisting as much.

**passthebuck** · 01-28-2003, 09:43 PM

thanks for that sweet tip 7T1BURB. It's good to know that i've gotta start saving up for doors now rather that later... (my current ones aint too good). Would the cab twist too much lying on its side (with one door on the top side) that WHEN I put it back on the frame, would the spacing around the doors be wackey? 560lbs? hmmmm not too bad...

**passthebuck** · 01-28-2003, 09:45 PM

oups... thanks to ALL who have posted... much appreciated...

7T1BURB · 01-29-2003, 10:58 AM

PTB:.....I would be careful of lying the cab on its side to complete underbody work because the chances of "cab twist" are increased. Mounting on a cradle at the body support mounts reduces chance of this twist while allowing both doors (or alignment jigs) to provide needed support. A cradle is not difficult to build and with wheels it allows you to roll the body around the shop....just another thought to consider before getting into metal replacement. Hope this helps.

**passthebuck** · 01-29-2003, 10:59 AM

ttt

**passthebuck** · 01-30-2003, 01:25 AM

ttt

Dean'smeanmachine · 02-05-2014, 07:03 PM

i built a cab dolly out of a couple pallets and some heavy-duty wheels

**passthebuck** · 02-05-2014, 07:12 PM

Thanks Dean.

You resurrected an oldie here!

I ended up rebuilding the cab floor on the truck on the frame. It was a ton of extra work & it's not nearly as nice as I would like, but it's solid & road legal.

Dean'smeanmachine · 02-06-2014, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by passthebuck

Thanks Dean.

You resurrected an oldie here!

I ended up rebuilding the cab floor on the truck on the frame. It was a ton of extra work & it's not nearly as nice as I would like, but it's solid & road legal.

LOL ten years later. this thread has helped me decide wheather to take it off or not. i went with taking it off.
sounds like your truck came out nice.
my truck is going to be a driver too. i just want to start fresh.

54blackhornet · 02-06-2014, 12:23 PM

I just pulled all the sheet metal off my K-10, used a over head crane, pulled the clip first. Then the box, last was the cab. Go slow and be safe. I also used a big 4x4 thru the doors (top of window frame) to distribute the weight of the cab as we lifted the cab.

**67 cst swb** · 02-06-2014, 12:47 PM

taking the cable off the park brake lever and pulling it through the firewall was the biggest issue for me on both my 67 & my 68

01-28-2003, 01:15 AM	#1
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	Lifting off my cab... I'm just wondering how much work is involved in pulling the cab off of our trucks. I'm planning on bringing my truck into the city soon & pulling the cab off. It's an (almost) zero option '67/straight 6/3 on the tree. I think four buddies can lift off the cab (right?), but how much un-hooking is there? Brakes? Wiring harness? Cab mounts? Steering linkage? Shifter linkage? Parking brake? Fenders? Gastank/fuel lines? Am I forgetting anything? Many thanks in advance for any advice you can give... __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

01-28-2003, 01:19 AM	#2
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,051	Front Clip has 6 bolts you might want to take the doors off might save your backs. Mario __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

01-28-2003, 01:59 AM	#3
67cst i love summertime Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Kelowna BC Posts: 4,302	i cant remember exactly what me and my dad did, but with a cab fully gutted except for rear window and front winshield was removed with my dad and i, it was heavy but doable __________________ 1967 shortbox stepside Chevy, 365 hp 327, th400. GLOVE BOX LIGHTS FORSALE, click link for info http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=273724

01-28-2003, 03:07 AM	#4
jostrans68 Jostrans68 Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Bloomington indiana Posts: 1,182	Engine hoist with a 4x4 on top of it. I flipped the boom so the slot for chain was on top and i put two lag bolts in 4x to drop thru the slot. The with doors off run the 4x in the cab put it all the way forward in door opening from side to side and center the pivot point (lag Bolts) in the center of the Cab. then jack it up and it rolls easy I put mine on by myself... __________________ [CGTW Member former 67-72 now with a 96 silverado

01-28-2003, 03:20 AM	#5
O'l Buck Recovering Truck Driver Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Orleans, NE USA Posts: 1,883	Loader tractor and 2 4" nylon straps.......no problem. Take the hood, cowl vent and front clip off first, makes everything else easier to get at. Unbolt the master cylinder, you can leave the lines hooked up if you're careful. I'd pull the distributor cap too jut to prevent accidental expense, heater hoses, fuel lines, unplug the wiring harness from the firewall. UNHOOK THE OIL PRESSURE LINE. hoses for the wiper washers, steering column, just disconnect the center link from the main part of the column, and pull the clips for the shift linkage and disconnect the shift rods. Unhook the clutch linkage, take the cable off the park brake pedal and pull it through the firewall. Pretty easy to take the cab off. __________________ 67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska

01-28-2003, 10:27 AM	#6
Tynee I miss this truck. Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Lexington, KY U.S.A. Posts: 2,863	Are you gutting the cab anyway? If you are, I found out last weekend that 2 men can lift a gutted cab easily. I bet it didn't weigh 250 lbs. __________________ '07 GMC Acadia SLT. Sweet ride. '08 Crew Cab Z-71 short bed. Really like this truck A LOT.

01-28-2003, 11:55 AM	#7
chevy2racr So Many Ideas, So Little Money Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Marshalltown, IA Posts: 1,610	ol' buck,DITTO man, wegot the 4" straps too, cab was clear full excep gas was out, hdtwo brake drums, two ront disks, hood springs and other junk in it too, no proble lifting :-D __________________ 72 Blazer 3/4 ton running gear 4.10s NP205/TH350 350 4in lift half doors 71 C10 with 454 99 S-10 5.1L SBC 700R4 09 Malibu Marshalltown, Iowa

01-28-2003, 03:52 PM	#8
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	Thanks for the tips... I dont have access to a front end loader & my engine hoist is a fairly low-lift unit... I am going to pull the seat, dorrs & tank out before hand - 4 guys & some 2by4's SOUNDS about right. I'm gonna put in new rockers, new floor boards & cab corners - I plan on laying the cab on its side on a block of styrofoam - good idea? Does anybody see any "hitches" in that plan? __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

01-28-2003, 04:09 PM	#9
>X< registered IWATA user Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 4,481	isnt there a ground strap to disconnect?????? __________________ -'63 Ford Fairlane 500 coupe, v8, auto, faded and rusty. awaiting built roller 302 and some flat black -'99 Honda Prelude. vtech/5spd. no pipe, no intake, bone stock. awaiting new top end. -01 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3 dented and scratched with a noisy tranny. Take off that Von Dutch hat before i stab you with a 000 Mack.

01-28-2003, 04:10 PM	#10
7T1BURB Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Newport News, VA Posts: 190	Here's a thought BEFORE you take the doors off...IF the doors close relatively "good" before disassembly you might consider drilling "pilot holes" through each of the hinges (where the hinges attach to the cowl and where hinges attach to door)....this simplifies a real troublesome task of realigning doors during reassembly...they may not be "perfect" when going back on, but at least you'll be closer and readjusting is made a little bit simpler. Realigning doors is generally a painful task!! Some folks don't want to drill holes in their hinges, but its a thought that you might consider....and make sure the doors are on (or a jig installed) and aligned before installing the rocker panels so everything lines up....guess how I know?? Been there, done that and got the T-Shirt!! Good Luck.

01-28-2003, 05:43 PM	#11
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,948	actually tynee a gutted cab is about 560 pounds i took mine to the dump and left 560 pounds lighter the onyl thing left in the cab was the windshield __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

01-28-2003, 05:51 PM	#12
Figment412 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Posts: 108	There was a ground strap on mine...we did not find that till after the cab was already off. It took 3 people 4 hours at most to completely stip my truck. Just the cab itself was not to bad. One of the cab mounts were rusted though an had to bust out the torch to cut them off. __________________ Save your money and do it right the first time. 1968 GMC short bed 1972 Cab 74 SB Chevy running gear

01-28-2003, 06:11 PM	#13
Tynee I miss this truck. Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Lexington, KY U.S.A. Posts: 2,863	560? Wow, I never would've thought that. I must be stronger than I thought, or all the wieght was on the other guy. hmmm. __________________ '07 GMC Acadia SLT. Sweet ride. '08 Crew Cab Z-71 short bed. Really like this truck A LOT.

01-28-2003, 07:38 PM	#14
johnw67 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: western nc Posts: 7	hey guys weight cab is porportionate to amout of rust on it. Last edited by johnw67; 01-29-2003 at 10:04 PM.

01-28-2003, 08:24 PM	#15
72c10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: burlington KY Posts: 175	when I pulled mine I gutted it but left the doors and glass in place and four of us lifted it and put it an a dolly that I made out of 2x4's that suported it where the cab mounts are. works great, has wheels so I can move it around and I dont have to wory about the cab twisting as much.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

01-28-2003, 09:43 PM	#16
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	thanks for that sweet tip 7T1BURB. It's good to know that i've gotta start saving up for doors now rather that later... (my current ones aint too good). Would the cab twist too much lying on its side (with one door on the top side) that WHEN I put it back on the frame, would the spacing around the doors be wackey? 560lbs? hmmmm not too bad... __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

01-28-2003, 09:45 PM	#17
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	oups... thanks to ALL who have posted... much appreciated... __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

01-29-2003, 10:58 AM	#18
7T1BURB Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Newport News, VA Posts: 190	PTB:.....I would be careful of lying the cab on its side to complete underbody work because the chances of "cab twist" are increased. Mounting on a cradle at the body support mounts reduces chance of this twist while allowing both doors (or alignment jigs) to provide needed support. A cradle is not difficult to build and with wheels it allows you to roll the body around the shop....just another thought to consider before getting into metal replacement. Hope this helps.

01-29-2003, 10:59 AM	#19
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	ttt __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

01-30-2003, 01:25 AM	#20
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	ttt __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

02-05-2014, 07:03 PM	#21
Dean'smeanmachine Registered User Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Mount Morris,NY Posts: 788	Re: Lifting off my cab... i built a cab dolly out of a couple pallets and some heavy-duty wheels __________________ Dean 1972 Custom Camper c/20 5.3 LS swap in progress. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=610187 in God we Trust

02-05-2014, 07:12 PM	#22
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	Re: Lifting off my cab... Thanks Dean. You resurrected an oldie here! I ended up rebuilding the cab floor on the truck on the frame. It was a ton of extra work & it's not nearly as nice as I would like, but it's solid & road legal. __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

02-06-2014, 12:23 PM	#24
54blackhornet Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Eastern Oregon Posts: 2,421	Re: Lifting off my cab... I just pulled all the sheet metal off my K-10, used a over head crane, pulled the clip first. Then the box, last was the cab. Go slow and be safe. I also used a big 4x4 thru the doors (top of window frame) to distribute the weight of the cab as we lifted the cab. Attached Images __________________ 71 C-20 07 Magnum RT AWD

02-06-2014, 12:47 PM	#25
67 cst swb Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Rapid City, SD Posts: 2,281	Re: Lifting off my cab... taking the cable off the park brake lever and pulling it through the firewall was the biggest issue for me on both my 67 & my 68 __________________ My Trucks: 1967 Chevrolet Short Wide Box 327 TH350 9" w/3.90 gears paint will be White - Current Project 1967 Chevrolet Custom LWB 283 TH400 3.73 Posi, no-AC, no-PS, no-PB, bench-seat, small-window - mostly orig driver 1967 Chevrolet CST LWB originally a 327 TH400 3.73 Posi AC PS PB, had Buddy Buckets, Small Window - parts truck 1967 Chevrolet CST LWB, 283 MT 3.73 had Buddy Buckets, Panoramic Window - parts truck 2001 Chevrolet 3500 2WD Crew Cab Dually 8.1L Allison White

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.