My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Ms Bright · 11-03-2010, 12:53 PM

I have a 68 Chevy short bed that WAS my daily driver. I knew eventually I would restore her; I love this truck so much I had her tatooed on my arm!

After blowing a freeze plug and locking up the motor, I decided to do a full frame-off restoration.

I have two BIG dogs that love to ride around in the back of my truck but, one's getting too old to jump. So, I decided to step notch the frame and bag it so my truck will drop to the ground. Then the dogs can load up without backing down the ditch. Plus, it'll look WAY cool...

I purchased the front dropped crossmember assembly, sway bar and rear 4link cantilever with step notch and watts link from Chris Alston's Chassisworks. The instructions are so easy even a chick can do it herself! (I know this for a fact...

)

So far, I've had the frame sand blasted, cut the frame out for and installed the notches and all bolt and weld-in components. (I'm having the welding done by a pro but doing everything else myself). I've painted the frame, and had my rear end rebuilt with positraction. I painted the rear end and axle last night gloss black and it looks good, if I do say so myself! I have purchased the brake kit to swap drum brakes for disk all around and switched to a 5-5 wheel bolt pattern in the process. My spindles get here the 9th so I'm on my way!

One question... where do you put the spare?!?

ControlFreak · 11-03-2010, 01:54 PM

I think that it's great that Ladies are involved in our passion for old trucks. Look's great, I wish you the best. Keep it coming.

Alan

STOCKISH · 11-03-2010, 02:37 PM

Welcome! And good luck with what looks to be a SICK build! Keep at it, cant wait for more pics.

Chainhoist Catapult · 11-03-2010, 02:57 PM

That is going to be sweet, where did you have it media blasted at? And what coating are you using for the frame and axels? My wife doesnt know it yet but she is going to be my assitant mechanic.

69CST-V · 11-03-2010, 04:08 PM

Great start. I will be watching.

Ms Bright · 11-03-2010, 06:15 PM

I'm having my sandblasting done at Rob Carroll's Sandblasting & Painting in Arkansas City, KS.

I bought Industrial primer and Enamel at Orschelyn's to paint the frame, axle, rear end... the little stuff BUT my paint is going to be done in Nixa, MO at Curry's Hot Rods Inc.

Thought I'd put some pics of my 20" Foose rims up while I'm here.

butternut1972 · 11-04-2010, 11:19 PM

Nice project! subscribed

KillerMinPin · 11-04-2010, 11:31 PM

Your doing an AWESOME job!!! Can't wait to see more pix as you get more and more done.

Ms Bright · 11-09-2010, 02:31 PM

I had to go out of town for the weekend for a wedding so I didn't get anything done Saturday or Sunday...BUT; heres what I did Monday.

I installed the rear brakes, cantilever, bags & shocks.

I get my front spindles today (WOOHOO!)

72BlckButy · 11-09-2010, 05:17 PM

Great progress, and project!

m6z · 11-09-2010, 05:37 PM

Nice build. Good to see another kansas build.

jmking9 · 11-09-2010, 08:57 PM

^x2 Nice looking build. BTW, What part of KS you in?

bigguy69 · 11-09-2010, 09:14 PM

awesome!!!!

**lolife99** · 11-09-2010, 09:42 PM

Welcome to the board!
Looks like a really nice project.
You do GREAT work!

Ms Bright · 11-18-2010, 02:51 PM

I have ran into a problem. The upper and lower control arm mounting studs are SUPPOSED to fit into the tapered holes on the spindle with enough stud left to torque a castle nut on and insert a cotter pin. As it is now, I can get the castle nut on but it's like the tapers don't match up. I have a couple of threads sticking out and the dang things (top AND bottom) just don't go on any further. I purchased the control arms and spindles together in a kit so, unless I was shipped the wrong parts, I'm just stumped. I called the place I bought them from and the "tech" said to buy a tapered reamer. These things cost, like, $90 minimum! why in the world would you have to go buy a reamer to get two parts to work together when they were purchased as a set!?! I have tried two spindles I have that weren't purchased from this supplier and they won't slide on far enough, either. I can't feel any burrs, there is no rust on or in either taper and I even tried a slight coat of grease. Does anyone know the taper on drop spindles for a 73-87 and where can I beg/borrow/buy the tapered reamer as this may be what I resort to. I only need about 3/8" and it'd be good. Anyone have any advice? HELP!!!

**lolife99** · 11-18-2010, 03:13 PM

DO NOT ream the spindles.
You have the wrong balljoints or the wrong spindles.
There are three different upper ball joints.
63-70
71-72
73-87
There are two different lower ball joints
63-70
71-87

You got the wrong parts.
You just have to figure out which one is incorrect.

**lolife99** · 11-18-2010, 03:15 PM

It sounds like you have 73-87 balljoints in your control arms and 63-70 "disc brake conversion" spindles

If the "Tech" at the Suspension Company told you to buy a taper reamer,... he should be fired or moved to a different department.

72BlckButy · 11-18-2010, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99

It sounds like you have 73-87 balljoints in your control arms and 63-70 "disc brake conversion" spindles.

If the "Tech" at the Suspension Company told you to buy a taper reamer,... he should be fired or moved to a different department.

Agreed.... that's opportunity for a lawsuit if something went awry.

Ms Bright · 11-18-2010, 03:18 PM

Thanks, Keith. I'm removing the control arms and taking them and the spindles to a mechanic in town. If he can't help me out then I'm off to the parts store to get what I need. The packing list I received from my supplier says 63-70 upper and lower control arms and 73-87 spindles. Are you telling me that these parts are not supposed to fit each other?

**lolife99** · 11-18-2010, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ms Bright

Thanks, Keith. I'm removing the control arms and taking them and the spindles to a mechanic in town. If he can't help me out then I'm off to the parts store to get what I need. The packing list I received from my supplier says 63-70 upper and lower control arms and 73-87 spindles. Are you telling me that these parts are not supposed to fit each other?

Incorrect.
They are suppose to fit each other. Ha.

The spindles and the control arms have to match.
The easiest solution would be to buy 73-87 balljoints to match your spindles.
I would confirm that at the parts store.
Take a spindle in and see exactly what they sent you.

**lolife99** · 11-18-2010, 03:23 PM

Are you running tubular control arms?
I would hate to swap out brand new parts when the supplier made the mistake.

Ms Bright · 11-19-2010, 11:43 AM

O'Reilleys helped me out ALOT. I bought new ball joints last night and am putting them in today... here's hoping for no problems! Atleast now I'll know how to use a balljoint press! ! I'll either be posting proud pics or venting like a crazy woman in the very near future!

Ms Bright · 11-19-2010, 11:45 AM

I didn't return my control arms or wait for them to send me the right ball joints cause they gave me a three week lead-time and I'm not waiting.

72BlckButy · 11-19-2010, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ms Bright

O'Reilleys helped me out ALOT. I bought new ball joints last night and am putting them in today... here's hoping for no problems! Atleast now I'll know how to use a balljoint press! ! I'll either be posting proud pics or venting like a crazy woman in the very near future!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ms Bright

I didn't return my control arms or wait for them to send me the right ball joints cause they gave me a three week lead-time and I'm not waiting.

Glad to hear that worked out for you.

STOCKISH · 11-19-2010, 06:42 PM

Glad you figured it out. Cant believe the tech told you to ream out the spindles. What an idiot!

11-03-2010, 12:53 PM	#1
Ms Bright Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Arkansas City, Kansas Posts: 33	My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild I have a 68 Chevy short bed that WAS my daily driver. I knew eventually I would restore her; I love this truck so much I had her tatooed on my arm! After blowing a freeze plug and locking up the motor, I decided to do a full frame-off restoration. I have two BIG dogs that love to ride around in the back of my truck but, one's getting too old to jump. So, I decided to step notch the frame and bag it so my truck will drop to the ground. Then the dogs can load up without backing down the ditch. Plus, it'll look WAY cool... I purchased the front dropped crossmember assembly, sway bar and rear 4link cantilever with step notch and watts link from Chris Alston's Chassisworks. The instructions are so easy even a chick can do it herself! (I know this for a fact... ) So far, I've had the frame sand blasted, cut the frame out for and installed the notches and all bolt and weld-in components. (I'm having the welding done by a pro but doing everything else myself). I've painted the frame, and had my rear end rebuilt with positraction. I painted the rear end and axle last night gloss black and it looks good, if I do say so myself! I have purchased the brake kit to swap drum brakes for disk all around and switched to a 5-5 wheel bolt pattern in the process. My spindles get here the 9th so I'm on my way! One question... where do you put the spare?!? Attached Images

11-03-2010, 01:54 PM	#2
ControlFreak Registered User Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Lawrenceville, Ga Posts: 18	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild I think that it's great that Ladies are involved in our passion for old trucks. Look's great, I wish you the best. Keep it coming. Alan

11-03-2010, 02:37 PM	#3
STOCKISH Formerly- 1972SuperCheyenne Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Wake Forest NC Posts: 5,782	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild Welcome! And good luck with what looks to be a SICK build! Keep at it, cant wait for more pics. __________________ --Josh My Build Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=799218 A good crossthread is better than Loctite any day. Life is not about what you have, but who you have to share it with.

11-03-2010, 02:57 PM	#4
Chainhoist Catapult Registered User Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Herington, KS. Posts: 12	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild That is going to be sweet, where did you have it media blasted at? And what coating are you using for the frame and axels? My wife doesnt know it yet but she is going to be my assitant mechanic.

11-03-2010, 04:08 PM	#5
69CST-V Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Piper, KS Posts: 683	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild Great start. I will be watching. __________________ Bryce '69 SWB Fleet Still Under Construction Company Trucks

11-03-2010, 06:15 PM	#6
Ms Bright Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Arkansas City, Kansas Posts: 33	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild I'm having my sandblasting done at Rob Carroll's Sandblasting & Painting in Arkansas City, KS. I bought Industrial primer and Enamel at Orschelyn's to paint the frame, axle, rear end... the little stuff BUT my paint is going to be done in Nixa, MO at Curry's Hot Rods Inc. Thought I'd put some pics of my 20" Foose rims up while I'm here. Attached Images

11-04-2010, 11:19 PM	#7
butternut1972 Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: longview,wa Posts: 1,094	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild Nice project! subscribed

11-04-2010, 11:31 PM	#8
KillerMinPin Registered User Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Durham, NC Posts: 10	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild Your doing an AWESOME job!!! Can't wait to see more pix as you get more and more done.

11-09-2010, 02:31 PM	#9
Ms Bright Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Arkansas City, Kansas Posts: 33	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild I had to go out of town for the weekend for a wedding so I didn't get anything done Saturday or Sunday...BUT; heres what I did Monday. I installed the rear brakes, cantilever, bags & shocks. I get my front spindles today (WOOHOO!) Attached Images

11-09-2010, 05:17 PM	#10
72BlckButy Tot Roddin' Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 24,461	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild Great progress, and project! __________________ -Nate 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package)

11-09-2010, 05:37 PM	#11
m6z Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Pittsburg, KS Posts: 2,466	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild Nice build. Good to see another kansas build. __________________ Doug Looking for a 67-72 short bed driver.....

11-09-2010, 08:57 PM	#12
jmking9 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Riverton KS Posts: 832	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild ^x2 Nice looking build. BTW, What part of KS you in? __________________ 1970 SWB Build

11-09-2010, 09:14 PM	#13
bigguy69 dazed and confused Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: marion nc Posts: 1,649	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild awesome!!!! __________________ members met: redbaron69, billsbowtie,nc67

11-09-2010, 09:42 PM	#14
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,717	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild Welcome to the board! Looks like a really nice project. You do GREAT work! __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

11-18-2010, 02:51 PM	#15
Ms Bright Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Arkansas City, Kansas Posts: 33	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild I have ran into a problem. The upper and lower control arm mounting studs are SUPPOSED to fit into the tapered holes on the spindle with enough stud left to torque a castle nut on and insert a cotter pin. As it is now, I can get the castle nut on but it's like the tapers don't match up. I have a couple of threads sticking out and the dang things (top AND bottom) just don't go on any further. I purchased the control arms and spindles together in a kit so, unless I was shipped the wrong parts, I'm just stumped. I called the place I bought them from and the "tech" said to buy a tapered reamer. These things cost, like, $90 minimum! why in the world would you have to go buy a reamer to get two parts to work together when they were purchased as a set!?! I have tried two spindles I have that weren't purchased from this supplier and they won't slide on far enough, either. I can't feel any burrs, there is no rust on or in either taper and I even tried a slight coat of grease. Does anyone know the taper on drop spindles for a 73-87 and where can I beg/borrow/buy the tapered reamer as this may be what I resort to. I only need about 3/8" and it'd be good. Anyone have any advice? HELP!!!



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11-18-2010, 03:13 PM	#16
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,717	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild DO NOT ream the spindles. You have the wrong balljoints or the wrong spindles. There are three different upper ball joints. 63-70 71-72 73-87 There are two different lower ball joints 63-70 71-87 You got the wrong parts. You just have to figure out which one is incorrect. __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

11-18-2010, 03:15 PM	#17
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,717	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild It sounds like you have 73-87 balljoints in your control arms and 63-70 "disc brake conversion" spindles If the "Tech" at the Suspension Company told you to buy a taper reamer,... he should be fired or moved to a different department. __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823 Last edited by lolife99; 11-18-2010 at 03:19 PM.

11-18-2010, 03:18 PM	#19
Ms Bright Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Arkansas City, Kansas Posts: 33	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild Thanks, Keith. I'm removing the control arms and taking them and the spindles to a mechanic in town. If he can't help me out then I'm off to the parts store to get what I need. The packing list I received from my supplier says 63-70 upper and lower control arms and 73-87 spindles. Are you telling me that these parts are not supposed to fit each other?

11-18-2010, 03:23 PM	#21
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,717	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild Are you running tubular control arms? I would hate to swap out brand new parts when the supplier made the mistake. __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

11-19-2010, 11:43 AM	#22
Ms Bright Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Arkansas City, Kansas Posts: 33	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild O'Reilleys helped me out ALOT. I bought new ball joints last night and am putting them in today... here's hoping for no problems! Atleast now I'll know how to use a balljoint press! ! I'll either be posting proud pics or venting like a crazy woman in the very near future!

11-19-2010, 11:45 AM	#23
Ms Bright Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Arkansas City, Kansas Posts: 33	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild I didn't return my control arms or wait for them to send me the right ball joints cause they gave me a three week lead-time and I'm not waiting.

11-19-2010, 06:42 PM	#25
STOCKISH Formerly- 1972SuperCheyenne Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Wake Forest NC Posts: 5,782	Re: My First: 68 Frame-off rebuild Glad you figured it out. Cant believe the tech told you to ream out the spindles. What an idiot! __________________ --Josh My Build Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=799218 A good crossthread is better than Loctite any day. Life is not about what you have, but who you have to share it with.

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