Anyone have cut springs here?

[crazychevyc10]

Just wondering who has cut springs here and how much did you cut?

[Palf70Step]

1 coil normally equates to about a 2" drop. It will vary though depending on how worn out/new the springs are.

[61_FL_Apache]

I cut springs once. Only once!

I cut about 1 to 1.5 coils on my 65 and it was the worse ride ever.. I didn't wait long before baggin it.

Your better off with a drop spring or spindle. The ride will be better.

[crazychevyc10]

Originally Posted by 61_FL_Apache

I cut springs once. Only once!

I cut about 1 to 1.5 coils on my 65 and it was the worse ride ever.. I didn't wait long before baggin it.

Your better off with a drop spring or spindle. The ride will be better.

I been wanting to ask about that..what is a drop spindle? I want to drop about 4" front and 6 in the back. What are your recommendations for the least expensive route. Also how much does a bag system run for?

[69chevytrucker]

just a fyi cutting a spring will change the geometry of the A - arms putting caster and camber out and like 61_fl says worst ride your bottom a- arm should not go past being level with the ground if you know what i mean

[ProudSoul]

I would say the max is 1 coil. You could probably get away with 1.5 or even 2 coils but the ride would be terrible. I did 1 coil up front and the ride is a little stiffer but I like it and had no alignment issues.

[crazychevyc10]

Originally Posted by ProudSoul

I would say the max is 1 coil. You could probably get away with 1.5 or even 2 coils but the ride would be terrible. I did 1 coil up front and the ride is a little stiffer but I like it and had no alignment issues.

is it possible to cut the rear springs too?

[ProudSoul]

Originally Posted by crazychevyc10

is it possible to cut the rear springs too?

Yes its possible but most would advise against it as the springs are bolted in to the frame and the trailing arms but I cut mine since I don't plan to be doing any Dukes of Hazard type stunts.

[crazychevyc10]

Originally Posted by ProudSoul

Yes its possible but most would advise against it as the springs are bolted in to the frame and the trailing arms but I cut mine since I don't plan to be doing any Dukes of Hazard type stunts.

so i have a question...when i buy lowering springs how do i know what type of shocks to buy to match the adjustment in height now?

[ProudSoul]

Originally Posted by crazychevyc10

so i have a question...when i buy lowering springs how do i know what type of shocks to buy to match the adjustment in height now?

The mounts for the shocks can be relocated to maximize travel. Check this thread out, it discusses relocation of the front and rear. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...05#post4730005

[61_FL_Apache]

To answer some earlier questions.

Drop spindles raise where the hub/brake rotor sits. With that, it lowers the front end. You can usually get a 2" drop from spindles. If you did a combo of drop spindles and drop springs, you can get a 4" drop in the front.

In order to get a 6" drop in the rear, you will probably need to notch the frame. That's where you cut a section out of the frame that the rear end can move up into.

I bagged my 65 for around $500. I went as low buck as possible and it worked fine for me. Your bags and compressor are the costly items. If you go with paddle valves, that's usually the cheaper route than using solenoids.

They are plenty of people that can chime in about baggin your truck. Im just telling you what worked for me.

[crazychevyc10]

Originally Posted by 61_FL_Apache

To answer some earlier questions.

Drop spindles raise where the hub/brake rotor sits. With that, it lowers the front end. You can usually get a 2" drop from spindles. If you did a combo of drop spindles and drop springs, you can get a 4" drop in the front.

In order to get a 6" drop in the rear, you will probably need to notch the frame. That's where you cut a section out of the frame that the rear end can move up into.

I bagged my 65 for around $500. I went as low buck as possible and it worked fine for me. Your bags and compressor are the costly items. If you go with paddle valves, that's usually the cheaper route than using solenoids.

They are plenty of people that can chime in about baggin your truck. Im just telling you what worked for me.

thanks! how much do you think a bag system will cost?

and what is the best online site for that?

[61_FL_Apache]

Originally Posted by crazychevyc10

thanks! how much do you think a bag system will cost?

and what is the best online site for that?

I would let others here help with that.. Do some searching around for air bag systems. You should find some other build threads too. I did the rear only on my 61, but I already had the compressor and tank. .I just added bags and valves.

[ol_skool_chevy]

I changed to 3/4 ton springs and then cut them...each coil is bigger and they are farther apart...after cutting you have a firm nice ride and better travel in the spring. that's my 30 years of option. Mine was done and it corners Great

[66 C10 383]

As far as coils go, here's some options.

Spindles - use these to obtain the first part of your front drop. They retain your stock geometery and wheel travel. You don't mention what year C10 you have but if you've got drum brakes up front, you can upgrade to newer disc brakes at the same time. The most common drop spindle is 2 1/2".

You can then taylor the rest of your drop with front springs of 1", 1 1/2", 2", or 3".

There are various companies that relocate the front shocks to use a stock length shock.

For the rear, I'd use a drop block in between the trailing arm and rear end. Gives you a drop without losing any suspension travel. If you have 15" wheels, I'd only go 1" to keep from dragging your lower shock mounts on the pavement in case you have a flat tire. If you have 17" or larger wheels, you could go 2" blocks. Then you could add rear coils for that last bit of drop by using anything from a 2" - 6" drop rear coil. It's been said anything 5" or over needs a c-notch in the rear frame section.

I'd also look at a rear shock relocation kit to correct your now too angled rear shocks. Too much angle and they aren't as effective.

As far as cutting your front coils, are they the original springs? If so, they are probably so worn out they need replaced anyway. NOTE: If they are tired worn out original springs, don't expect a new 1" drop spring to lower it more than it is now. It'll probably raise it due to the fact of your old springs are probably sagging 2" already...