How much sound insulation?

[Hart_Rod]

Getting ready to order some Fatmat sound insulation for my suburban and was wondering how much I should order. I plan on doing the roof as well as the sides and floor. Where's the cheapest place to buy it? 100 sqft? 200? TIA

[vectorit]

I used 3 "trunk kits" from Dynamat just to do the metal floor section, along with two door panels. The stuff is espensive...

My drive train noise still comes through pretty loud, even with a layer of jute padding and MIP layer on the carpet.

I took a day long road trip in my burb yesterday, and it was all pretty much highway speeds. Towards the end, I was thinking of ways to make things quieter inside again.

My interior noise has lessened considerably since I have added my sound proofing, but I am still looking for ways to make it even more quieter with out having to swap my Rockwell Tcase for a New Process lol.

[HSRACER]

What about the spray on lizard skin that is to deaden the sound transfer?

[highwinger]

I was going to try standard rubber (neoprene?) mat on the bed quarters because it should work and was only $10-$20 a roll at the Turkey Rod Run. It was from a place in NC. That commercial sound deadening material is way overpriced IM(ignorant)O.

I was also watching weekend tv car shows that had a one of the sound deadening material guys on selling his goods. He demonstrated that a small piece of material can make a huge difference, so it may not need material completely covering the surface.

As far as the amount of the material, it wouldn't be too hard to make rough measurements of all the exterior surface areas. You could almost figure: side length x side height x 2 sides + bed length x bed width x 2 top&bot ~= 10x4x2 + 4x10x2 = 160sqft ... just a wag.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by vectorit

I used 3 "trunk kits" from Dynamat just to do the metal floor section, along with two door panels. The stuff is espensive...

My drive train noise still comes through pretty loud, even with a layer of jute padding and MIP layer on the carpet.

I took a day long road trip in my burb yesterday, and it was all pretty much highway speeds. Towards the end, I was thinking of ways to make things quieter inside again.

My interior noise has lessened considerably since I have added my sound proofing, but I am still looking for ways to make it even more quieter with out having to swap my Rockwell Tcase for a New Process lol.

Thanks, I plan on putting 2 layers on the floor, a single layer on the side panels and layer on the roof panel. Hopefully, that will help with the noise and heat, I'm just not sure how much to order.

Originally Posted by HSRACER

What about the spray on lizard skin that is to deaden the sound transfer?

Good stuff, but hard to apply to a painted vehicle.....

[CG]

I personally like lizard skin a lot, Ive used it on a couple of trucks. I'm not sure why it matters that your Burb is painted. Isn't everything going to be covered with carpet or headliner?

Same as with the sound mat stuff. It has to be put down over paint, and doesn't it have sticky back?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by CG

I personally like lizard skin a lot, Ive used it on a couple of trucks. I'm not sure why it matters that your Burb is painted. Isn't everything going to be covered with carpet or headliner?

Same as with the sound mat stuff. It has to be put down over paint, and doesn't it have sticky back?

Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought lizzard skin had to be sprayed on.

http://m.lizardskin.com/

[CG]

I brushed mine on. But you can get a sprayer for it ... Now I understand what you were thinking though. Its kind of pricey, prolly a lot of dough to do a burb. There is a heat version and a noise version ... you can put one over the other (I forgot which one they advise to do first).

I get the use of mat, I just cant get past putting it on the roof of a vehicle ... seems like the heat of the sun can loosen it up.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by CG

I brushed mine on. But you can get a sprayer for it ... Now I understand what you were thinking though. Its kind of pricey, prolly a lot of dough to do a burb. There is a heat version and a noise version ... you can put one over the other (I forgot which one they advise to do first).

I get the use of mat, I just cant get past putting it on the roof of a vehicle ... seems like the heat of the sun can loosen it up.

Interesting, I didn't know you could apply it with a brush. I've had good luck with the FATMAT. How are you replacing your headliner? Homemade? Also, did you ever find a rear air unit? I'm debating on whether to install one in mine....

Rob

PS You wouldn't happen to have a couple extra 4" rear seat brackets would you? Some how or another, I ended up with 2 short ones on mine and now I can't mount my rear seat, .

[paul mora]

I work in the pipeline industry and I specialize in corrosion control. I recently met with one of the coating companies about heat and sound insulation on pipelines. I alway look at ways to apply these material in th auto industry. I realized that the parent company for Lizard Skin is Mascoat. And if you can find a sales rep in you area you may be able to buy the same coating as lizard skin at half the price. If you look at the lower left side of the Lizard Skin site you will see the name Mascoat. http://www.lizardskin.com/

http://www.mascoat.com/transfer-pipe...nsulation.html

[magicoolbus]

Look into a product called Mass Loaded Vinyl. Spendy, but very effective at noise attenuation if installed with a 'barrier.'

I did a combination of things in my burb:

I used a roofing product called, peel and seal products on the roof and floors-took 4 or 5 rolls IIRC.

On the side panels, I used a DIY lizard skin by mixing elastomeric roof compound and 'micro spheres.'

Lastly, I added a 1/8 MLV to the floor.

All together, I would estimate nearly 400 bucks into the project--well worth the effort. This does not include the cost of the headliner and the carpet kit.

[CG]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Interesting, I didn't know you could apply it with a brush. I've had good luck with the FATMAT. How are you replacing your headliner? Homemade? Also, did you ever find a rear air unit? I'm debating on whether to install one in mine....

Rob

PS You wouldn't happen to have a couple extra 4" rear seat brackets would you? Some how or another, I ended up with 2 short ones on mine and now I can't mount my rear seat, .

Sorry no extra brackets. I have no experience with any of the peel and stick except some stuff I got at Lowes. I put it in the sides of my gutted Astro Van just to see how it works. Didnt put any on the ceiling though.

Yeah I did get rear air ... guess I need to modify my sig.

As far as headliner I have OEM and the strips.

[LockDoc]

-
Interesting thread. I am getting ready to put something on the inside of the Panel Truck. I was also concerned about the stick on stuff staying on the inside of the roof. It seems like it might start peeling off with the heat. Dunno.... I guess regular spray on undercoating would work too. Auto company's used it on the inside body panels for a lot of years.

I need both insulation and sound deadening.

LockDoc

[CG]

Im going with lizard skin on my 72 Burb. I gave my panel to one of my sons (no matter how hard I tried to get back in to that thing I couldn't) and he will be using lizard skin too, especially because its black.

[BK72BURB_3/4Ton4x4]

Just applied Lizard Skin to the rear section of the suburban after replacing the wood bed with metal. I did not measure db before and after but to the naked ear I would say there is no "significant" difference. (Hard to drown out a 454 Chevy running headers and Flow-masters) Next step is to rattle trap the entire car, and maybe invest in some MIP rubber mats and probably switch to Magnaflow mufflers ;-)

[Bigdav160]

The magnaflows made a HUGE difference. I was so glad to get rid of the flowmasters

[CG]

Originally Posted by BK72BURB_3/4Ton4x4

Just applied Lizard Skin to the rear section of the suburban after replacing the wood bed with metal. I did not measure db before and after but to the naked ear I would say there is no "significant" difference. (Hard to drown out a 454 Chevy running headers and Flow-masters) Next step is to rattle trap the entire car, and maybe invest in some MIP rubber mats and probably switch to Magnaflow mufflers ;-)

That's interesting, Ive only used it in a pick up. Did you use the dual system, heat resistance and noise resistance?

[sbrban]

you guys are missing the important area...the firewall. You will get a LOT of noise and heat transfer from the firewall alone.
I used ice and water mat on the firewall and floor of my burb. Ive used it in numerous vehicles with good success. I heat it up and roll or press it into the floor pan areas. you don't need to do the entire panel, although i would say I probably cover 3/4 of each panel.
After that I'll put down a jute backing and on top of that would be the carpet. The jute backing I do put across the entire panel if it's possible.on the roofs, I'll apply the ice barrier in sheets about 12" wide going across the roof from left to right.After that a roll of jute that is sprayed with adhesive spray. I can't say if it has fallen down-I haven't had a reason to take the headliner down to see.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by sbrban

you guys are missing the important area...the firewall. You will get a LOT of noise and heat transfer from the firewall alone.
I used ice and water mat on the firewall and floor of my burb. Ive used it in numerous vehicles with good success. I heat it up and roll or press it into the floor pan areas. you don't need to do the entire panel, although i would say I probably cover 3/4 of each panel.
After that I'll put down a jute backing and on top of that would be the carpet. The jute backing I do put across the entire panel if it's possible.on the roofs, I'll apply the ice barrier in sheets about 12" wide going across the roof from left to right.After that a roll of jute that is sprayed with adhesive spray. I can't say if it has fallen down-I haven't had a reason to take the headliner down to see.

I always use the stock insulation on the firewall. Are you saying a person needs to use the mat in addition to the stock stuff or in place of......

LockDoc

[CG]

Originally Posted by sbrban

you guys are missing the important area...the firewall. You will get a LOT of noise and heat transfer from the firewall alone.
I used ice and water mat on the firewall and floor of my burb. Ive used it in numerous vehicles with good success. I heat it up and roll or press it into the floor pan areas. you don't need to do the entire panel, although i would say I probably cover 3/4 of each panel.
After that I'll put down a jute backing and on top of that would be the carpet. The jute backing I do put across the entire panel if it's possible.on the roofs, I'll apply the ice barrier in sheets about 12" wide going across the roof from left to right.After that a roll of jute that is sprayed with adhesive spray. I can't say if it has fallen down-I haven't had a reason to take the headliner down to see.

I used both Lizard Skins all the way up as far as I could reach under the dash on my pick up cabs, worked great for me ( I sound like I work for LS lol)

Also I wasn't running carpet, just the full size rubber mats.

[2tontruck]

What about Upol Raptor liner? I will be giving my Suburban a coat inside and underside. I bought enough to do the inner quarter panels and doors too. I plan on maybe seeing if I have enough for the roof as well. Please tell me this will work fairly equal to lizard skin????

[RedRoad]

Are there any suppliers for the factory original foam/tar board insulation? My burb has the original thick factory undercoating that keeps it pretty quiet and the stock stuff worked well to keep the heat out. I just took out the old stuff and it was pretty brittle and smashed after 44 years. If no kits anyone have a source for the tar mat?

Thanks

[vectorit]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

The magnaflows made a HUGE difference. I was so glad to get rid of the flowmasters

I tend to believe this.
I run twin FM series 70's, and they are nice at idle.
But at highway speed, they tend to drone.

I would like to replace them with a same size muffler from Magnaflow, but it seems all they make are much smaller mufflers even if they are quieter.
Trying to avoid making my exhaust system look like a patch work of welds.

[infinite-foamies]

Originally Posted by BK72BURB_3/4Ton4x4

Just applied Lizard Skin to the rear section of the suburban after replacing the wood bed with metal. I did not measure db before and after but to the naked ear I would say there is no "significant" difference. (Hard to drown out a 454 Chevy running headers and Flow-masters) Next step is to rattle trap the entire car, and maybe invest in some MIP rubber mats and probably switch to Magnaflow mufflers ;-)

Do you have a thread for the metal floor? Don't you have an issue with the cross members because metal is thinner? Also I am trying to drown out a 4BT Cummins with Straight pipe

[BK72BURB_3/4Ton4x4]

Originally Posted by infinite-foamies

Do you have a thread for the metal floor? Don't you have an issue with the cross members because metal is thinner? Also I am trying to drown out a 4BT Cummins with Straight pipe

I have a few pics of the floor replacement here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=154

Really happy with the result but sill going to ditch the flowmasters!
Brian