47-55.1 insulation

[nvrdone]

I'm at the point of putting the interior back in my truck. What is a good sound deadener and heat insulation to use?

[mr48chev]

I've had some on my Ebay watch list for years.

For Low buck this one from Temu is 157x39 inches for 23.67 a roll and I haven't figured out how many rolls one would need.

https://www.temu.com/157-x39-automot...7_j3vuvcmm9v5- This one is 36 square feet of smaller = 9-1/2 X 16-1/2 pieces but the feedback is good. More expensive but it may be easier to handle than larger rolls. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LQQ4KSW...1zcF9kZXRhaWwy

There is still Killmat, Fat Mat and a bunch of others .

[leegreen]

One that either seals to the surface or that you can pull back easily to dry behind it if something leaks.

I used kilmat from Amazon and am happy with it if I ignore country of origin. Covered all of floor, roof, back of cab and firewall, good chunk of inside doors.
There is about 6" of firewall that was hard(er) to reach and now I wish I had done it as cab is still a bit noisy. But I don't have a headliner, anything on back of cab or door panels yet. I'll do those first then see about that top section of firewall.

I have a thick rubber one piece floor mat, water was running down from inner fender bolts behind it and pooling under it. No evidence that it got behind the kilmat. I did spend some effort sticking kilmat down: warm day, lino roller, lots of rolling and pressure. There is no way to check behind it for moisture without destroying it, but I remain confident. The stuff on the roof has not budged despite black exterior and some hot (for BC) days.

[dsraven]

on a 79 ford 4x4 pickup I redid for a friend he had the interior of the cab sprayed with box liner. the good industrial strenth kind that can be sprayed as thick as the guy lays it down. he asked for the cab to be sprayed on the inside from the bottom of the rear window all the way to up the firewall as far as the sprayer could reach up there. on the floor it was built up enough to level out the inpressions in the sheet metal that were formed in for strength etc. that was the quietest truck after that and the guy was a hunter and general outdoorsy all season kinda fella. he loved it because the floor could be washed out with a garden hose and no low spots would trap water, ice, mud etc.
just a thought. newer vehicles have a layer of insulation on the engine side of the firewall to help reduce sound and heat transfer. on some commercial vehicles i have worked on we fabbed up sheet rubber hangers around the engine bay and engine cover (like UPS truck style of trucks) to help reduce noise from the diesel engine optioned delivery trucks. hot water tank foil backed insulation works pretty good on the underside of a hood and can be held with large headed plastic push pins where applicable. not for show trucks though, lol. sheet rubber can also work on the inside of the truck behind floor mats etc. some newer vehicles use formed hard foam to smooth out low spots and absorb noise, like styrofoam but more dense.

[MARTINSR]

Ohhhhhh I can't wait to be that far on my project! I am getting tingly right now just thinking about it.

Brian

[jweb]

It really depends on how far you want to go. There are so many options.

Most important is to make sure everything is sealed well. No holes in the firewall and good door seals make the biggest difference.

I used Kilmat to cover pretty much everything inside my cab ( firewall, floor, behind headliner, rear wall). The biggest difference I noticed with this is when I did strips of the Kilmat on the inner and outer door surfaces.


Then I have foil backed carpet pad on the firewall, floor and above the headliner. Like this: https://www.yourautotrim.com/thercar...SABEgIZ8_D_BwE

I also have carpet on the floor and firewall.

By today's standards the truck is still noisy. I just got a 2024 Silverado 2500 which is shaped like a brick and it's the quietest vehicle I've ever driven.

[mr48chev]

I've thought about using lizard skin before putting anything else in but it gets pretty expensive if you use both the one for noise and the one for heat. I've known a few guys who do the bottom side of the floors with bed liner before setting the cab/body on the frame along with doing the insides of the fenders and bottom sides of the running boards. Some say that the bedliner inside the fenders helps with rock damage from gravel hitting the inside of the fender.

I just know that I want to cut down on heat and noise as much as I can this time around.

[e015475]

I used two boxes of the Russian Killmat on my interior. I covered the top of the cab, floor and back panel 100 percent. For the doors, I did about 50-70 percent of the outside skin along with some the inside to keep it from resonating.

On top of the Killmat, I used .25" of closed cell foam. I didn't use the foil backed pad that Jweb used as I thought the radiant barrier on the Killmat was sufficient. I used the handle on my shears to push the Killmat into place. Investing in a roller for this material is worth it.

[IMG][/IMG]

Here's the closed cell foam I put over all the Killmat



Like Jweb says getting everything sealed up is important. I put gators on the clutch and brake pedals where they go through the floorboards and relplaced all the door and window seals. I sealed the steering column penetration with 'dum-dum' and a gator on the column in the engine compartment.

[IMG][/IMG]


When I had the truck upholstered, I had underneath the seat and the back panel of the cab carpeted too. There's a layer of jute padding under the carpets.

Near as I can tell, to get the cab anymore quiet, I'd have to 'acoustically decouple' the interior. If I understand correctly, that'd involve putting another layer of rubber or very high density foam, up to about a half inch thick.

After doing what I'd done, I thought I'd hit the point of diminishing returns so I stopped.

[Tempest67]

I used a roll (or 2?) of this tar backed window frame sealer I found at Home Depot. It sticks REALLY well.

I put it on the floors, roof, rear panel, doors and firewall (everywhere)

[R&B51]

Cannot tell you what it will be like to drive because I’m not that far along. I bought the Second Skin sound insulation. I sprayed all the areas before I put it down with Eastwood platinum rust encapsulator. It is an aluminum based rust, preventative, and encapsulating product that I’m hoping has some thermal protection and is super tough (there was no rest underneath visible, I had done all the fresh metal work and most of the floors and firewall are fresh plus some patch panels in cab and fenders). Main reason I went this route was to avoid any possibility of moisture underneath sound insulation. Every old vehicle, including my daily driver old Bronco leaks in the rain and gets water inside.I bought the little spray kit that Second Skin sells-worth every penny. Put it on in multiple coats and it was easy as long as you mask it off well. You can bang on the panels and there is no ring sound. Sprayed it inside the doors, also bottom of cab inside all four fenders as well.
I like the way it goes in every crack and crevice. It’s about 5 mm thick everywhere. I will also put jute or carpet padding down on the floors.
We will see!

[jweb]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I've thought about using lizard skin before putting anything else in but it gets pretty expensive if you use both the one for noise and the one for heat. I've known a few guys who do the bottom side of the floors with bed liner before setting the cab/body on the frame along with doing the insides of the fenders and bottom sides of the running boards. Some say that the bedliner inside the fenders helps with rock damage from gravel hitting the inside of the fender.

I just know that I want to cut down on heat and noise as much as I can this time around.

I have Raptor liner sprayed on the bottom of the cab and all the other surfaces you mentioned. I don’t think it did much for noise or heat but I’m really happy with it. It’s been about 7 years and it still looks great, no chips inside the fenders or anywhere else. I’m doing the same of my 64 Suburban.

I will do the same process for sound deadening on the Suburban too.
Only difference is I may use some closed cell foam or Noico Red in some areas instead of the foil carpet pad. Carpet pad can hold moisture, these won’t.

[PbFut]

Just visiting you area of the forum. To share my experience with lizard skin. It is on a 72 c20. I bought the two part sound and thermal barrier with the required spray gun from Summit. It's a bit pricey all in but yielded very good results. Overall a tighter feel and sound while driving. Thermal insulation is quite good. Surfaces still get on the warm side but nothing like bare metal. Very easy to spray on. I took my time masking all holes and mount surfaces. That kept fitment of related items to the mounting surface true, and avoided things being off by the thickness of the Lizard material. Assuming I had the budget, I would use again. Oh and rust...I used a converter on areas with some evidence. Let it cure for a week before spraying the Lizard Skin. Adhesion is excellent and I feel will have good vapor barrier assumming no penitration from back side.