battery drain? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Prerunner1982 · 11-25-2003, 02:08 PM

ok...before any of youll jump me... i know i have discussed this before. i tried disconnection the neg battery cable and connecting a multi meter between it and the battery. also tried between pos and battery. both read 12+ volts, which is same reading i got when connecting the multi meter from post to post. i know i have something draining the battery, i tried pulling the fuses to see which circuit it was, but with the multi meter connected the volts wouldnt change. should i have it on volts or amp? or what? something didnt seem right, it looked to me like there was 12 volts always draining from the battery.. may i am stupid or something...... somebody... preferrably wiser than i am please help me out here............

bigblock73 · 11-25-2003, 02:14 PM

have you installed any electrically powered components as of late? Radio, CB, etc...???

Prerunner1982 · 11-25-2003, 02:25 PM

yes, had the CB for quite some time, before it started draining,.....put a new radio in,....after it started draining. i have added a few lights, 2 through the bright switch, 2 more on thier own switch. i realize it could be those, i am just trying to track down the circuit, then i will look at the components on that circuit.

Jim Molloy · 11-25-2003, 04:00 PM

Has a '73 a few years ago with similar symptoms.

Turned out to be grounded out turn signal wire inside the
steering column. Disconnected the big connector on the column
and the draw went away .Had to change the column.

Also try disconnecting the wires from your alt. Sometimes they
can go bad and act like a motor drawing current.

Prerunner1982 · 11-25-2003, 05:05 PM

my alt is acting up also, so that may be it. sometimes it shows that it is charging properly. other times it wont get above 12. other times it will fluctuate with throttle....

Jim Molloy · 11-25-2003, 05:15 PM

Last night has to replace my alt. Less voltage to the battery
when the engine was running. Fusible links good .
$17 ,yes $17 later for a rebuilt alt ,2-3 hours of fussing around
and its a whole new world.

Big difference ,that alt must have been going bad for some time.

Gotta love these Chevys . Cheap parts and easy to work on.

Prerunner1982 · 11-25-2003, 05:18 PM

$17 for an alt.. .damn where did ya get that from?

Jim Molloy · 11-25-2003, 05:33 PM

Local parts house called Knecht's. Parts are rebuilt locally.

$17.00 and $10.00 core charge. Yesterday bought a brake
master cylinder for $17.00 and a $4.00 core.

Must be something about $17 ......................

79BIG10 · 11-25-2003, 07:24 PM

Jon take a test light and mount it between the ground and the (-) battery post. It should stay lit. When you take out each of your fuses from the block go look at the test light. When it goes out then you know which circuit the draw is on. Just make sure to tape the door light sensor shut.

Prerunner1982 · 11-25-2003, 07:28 PM

B, if the multi meter said 12 volts, wont the light stay lit anyways... but you gave me an idea.... a few years ago i cut the door pin switches and used them for other lights. well i ripped the other lights out. i thought i tapped off the wire. but i will check..

77bowtie · 11-26-2003, 11:19 AM

I'm not sure what dc amp rating your vom has but the 2 I have are 10 & 20 amp. OK that said disconect your positive battery cable and take an amp reading between the cable and the positive battery post (with your meter at its higest amp setting). That will show how much (if any) a current draw you have.( Now what on your truck uses that much of a draw?) Then hook the battery cable back on and do the same test at the fuse block for each circuit, (pull each fuse and test between the fuse connections). This should help locate the problem. Good Luck Jon

Prerunner1982 · 11-26-2003, 07:46 PM

77bowtie. it reads 12.5 volts approx.. same as if i put the multimeter between the neg cable and the neg post. same reading i get going from post to post. same reading everytime. thats what has me confused. i will try again though...

76bonanza · 11-26-2003, 07:58 PM

Its a 12 volt battery it will always read around 12 volts. Amps is what you need to be checking.

Prerunner1982 · 11-26-2003, 08:19 PM

thats what i needed, i should have read closer...........

i need to change my user text back to village idiot.

Frank-id · 11-26-2003, 08:55 PM

To check modern vehicle electrical, a digital multimeter is required. A 12 volt lead acid battery, as used in cars and trucks, will indicate 12.6 volts with a DVM. A battery that measures 12.0 volts is 75% discharged. A digital volt meter is a great electrical test tool. Even the very cheapest digital meter will give lots of valuable information. A battery voltage that is low will not "excite" an alternator to begin a charging voltage of about 14.7 volts. The alternator voltage must be higher than battery voltage.

To determine if there are any phantom electrical loads on a battery, connect a horn or any 12 volt lite between the battery negative post and the battery cable. If the lite come on or the horn beeps, there is a load. By unplugging and removing lite bulbs and disconnecting the wires to the alternator, the battery drain may be located. The only acceptable load is the clock, whichs rewinds the clock very quickly. The most common loads are the alternator, heater motor, trunk and glove box interior lites...... Frank

11-25-2003, 02:08 PM	#1
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,904	battery drain? ok...before any of youll jump me... i know i have discussed this before. i tried disconnection the neg battery cable and connecting a multi meter between it and the battery. also tried between pos and battery. both read 12+ volts, which is same reading i got when connecting the multi meter from post to post. i know i have something draining the battery, i tried pulling the fuses to see which circuit it was, but with the multi meter connected the volts wouldnt change. should i have it on volts or amp? or what? something didnt seem right, it looked to me like there was 12 volts always draining from the battery.. may i am stupid or something...... somebody... preferrably wiser than i am please help me out here............ __________________ Jon 1982 Chevy Silverado 350/th350.... RETIRED 1993 Jeep XJ 2 door(Cherokee) 4wd 4.0ltr/AX-15 (5spd)/NP231 .... Oklahoma Roll Call

11-25-2003, 02:14 PM	#2
bigblock73 yeller Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 13,824	have you installed any electrically powered components as of late? Radio, CB, etc...??? __________________ Jeff 73-87.com 73-87.com Facebook page 73-87 cab corner 6x9 speaker brackets for sale 67-72 cab corner speaker brackets for sale 47-54 cab corner speaker brackets for sale

11-25-2003, 02:25 PM	#3
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,904	yes, had the CB for quite some time, before it started draining,.....put a new radio in,....after it started draining. i have added a few lights, 2 through the bright switch, 2 more on thier own switch. i realize it could be those, i am just trying to track down the circuit, then i will look at the components on that circuit. __________________ Jon 1982 Chevy Silverado 350/th350.... RETIRED 1993 Jeep XJ 2 door(Cherokee) 4wd 4.0ltr/AX-15 (5spd)/NP231 .... Oklahoma Roll Call

11-25-2003, 05:05 PM	#5
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,904	my alt is acting up also, so that may be it. sometimes it shows that it is charging properly. other times it wont get above 12. other times it will fluctuate with throttle.... __________________ Jon 1982 Chevy Silverado 350/th350.... RETIRED 1993 Jeep XJ 2 door(Cherokee) 4wd 4.0ltr/AX-15 (5spd)/NP231 .... Oklahoma Roll Call

11-25-2003, 05:15 PM	#6
Jim Molloy Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Albany,OR Posts: 49	Last night has to replace my alt. Less voltage to the battery when the engine was running. Fusible links good . $17 ,yes $17 later for a rebuilt alt ,2-3 hours of fussing around and its a whole new world. Big difference ,that alt must have been going bad for some time. Gotta love these Chevys . Cheap parts and easy to work on. __________________ 1979 Chevy Stepside 250-6,auto. 1981 Suzuki 850 70's Chopper,Springer,hardtail,750 Suzuki engine '84 Stang-wife's

11-25-2003, 04:00 PM	#4
Jim Molloy Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Albany,OR Posts: 49	Has a '73 a few years ago with similar symptoms. Turned out to be grounded out turn signal wire inside the steering column. Disconnected the big connector on the column and the draw went away .Had to change the column. Also try disconnecting the wires from your alt. Sometimes they can go bad and act like a motor drawing current.

11-25-2003, 05:18 PM	#7
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,904	$17 for an alt.. .damn where did ya get that from? __________________ Jon 1982 Chevy Silverado 350/th350.... RETIRED 1993 Jeep XJ 2 door(Cherokee) 4wd 4.0ltr/AX-15 (5spd)/NP231 .... Oklahoma Roll Call

11-25-2003, 05:33 PM	#8
Jim Molloy Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Albany,OR Posts: 49	Local parts house called Knecht's. Parts are rebuilt locally. $17.00 and $10.00 core charge. Yesterday bought a brake master cylinder for $17.00 and a $4.00 core. Must be something about $17 ...................... __________________ 1979 Chevy Stepside 250-6,auto. 1981 Suzuki 850 70's Chopper,Springer,hardtail,750 Suzuki engine '84 Stang-wife's

11-25-2003, 07:24 PM	#9
79BIG10 I'm back with 2nd truck! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 3,774	Jon take a test light and mount it between the ground and the (-) battery post. It should stay lit. When you take out each of your fuses from the block go look at the test light. When it goes out then you know which circuit the draw is on. Just make sure to tape the door light sensor shut. __________________ 1979 Chevrolet Bonanza Big10 "Tootsie Roll" 1985 Chevrolet Silverado (wife's) Member of the Southern Bowties Club "Don't underestimate how sexy a fat man who drinks to excess can be." Homer Simpson

11-25-2003, 07:28 PM	#10
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,904	B, if the multi meter said 12 volts, wont the light stay lit anyways... but you gave me an idea.... a few years ago i cut the door pin switches and used them for other lights. well i ripped the other lights out. i thought i tapped off the wire. but i will check.. __________________ Jon 1982 Chevy Silverado 350/th350.... RETIRED 1993 Jeep XJ 2 door(Cherokee) 4wd 4.0ltr/AX-15 (5spd)/NP231 .... Oklahoma Roll Call

11-26-2003, 11:19 AM	#11
77bowtie Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: New Mexico. Of all places for an Island boy. Posts: 180	I'm not sure what dc amp rating your vom has but the 2 I have are 10 & 20 amp. OK that said disconect your positive battery cable and take an amp reading between the cable and the positive battery post (with your meter at its higest amp setting). That will show how much (if any) a current draw you have.( Now what on your truck uses that much of a draw?) Then hook the battery cable back on and do the same test at the fuse block for each circuit, (pull each fuse and test between the fuse connections). This should help locate the problem. Good Luck Jon

11-26-2003, 07:46 PM	#12
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,904	77bowtie. it reads 12.5 volts approx.. same as if i put the multimeter between the neg cable and the neg post. same reading i get going from post to post. same reading everytime. thats what has me confused. i will try again though...

11-26-2003, 07:58 PM	#13
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	Its a 12 volt battery it will always read around 12 volts. Amps is what you need to be checking. __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

11-26-2003, 08:19 PM	#14
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,904	thats what i needed, i should have read closer........... i need to change my user text back to village idiot.

11-26-2003, 08:55 PM	#15
Frank-id Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Twin Falls, Idaho Posts: 73	Batteries and electrical To check modern vehicle electrical, a digital multimeter is required. A 12 volt lead acid battery, as used in cars and trucks, will indicate 12.6 volts with a DVM. A battery that measures 12.0 volts is 75% discharged. A digital volt meter is a great electrical test tool. Even the very cheapest digital meter will give lots of valuable information. A battery voltage that is low will not "excite" an alternator to begin a charging voltage of about 14.7 volts. The alternator voltage must be higher than battery voltage. To determine if there are any phantom electrical loads on a battery, connect a horn or any 12 volt lite between the battery negative post and the battery cable. If the lite come on or the horn beeps, there is a load. By unplugging and removing lite bulbs and disconnecting the wires to the alternator, the battery drain may be located. The only acceptable load is the clock, whichs rewinds the clock very quickly. The most common loads are the alternator, heater motor, trunk and glove box interior lites...... Frank __________________ Chevy stepper 400sb 350 turbo Last edited by Frank-id; 11-26-2003 at 08:57 PM.



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