Loose Trailing Arm Bushings

[70C10I6]

I just installed new original type rubber bushings into my 70 C10 trailing arms. I placed the new bushings in the freezer prior to hammering them in place. Now, after all temperatures have equalized, I can slightly rotate the bushings. The outer shell rotates 2 - 3 degrees each direction in the the trailing arm. I'm assuming this is not acceptable? Would it be okay to tack weld them in place? Has anyone else had this experience? Any help would be appreciated.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 70C10I6

I just installed new original type rubber bushings into my 70 C10 trailing arms. I placed the new bushings in the freezer prior to hammering them in place. Now, after all temperatures have equalized, I can slightly rotate the bushings. The outer shell rotates 2 - 3 degrees each direction in the the trailing arm. I'm assuming this is not acceptable? Would it be okay to tack weld them in place? Has anyone else had this experience? Any help would be appreciated.

Welcome to the board.

I have never had to install any new ones. Did you try them for fit before you put them in the freezer?

LockDoc

[HO455]

Welcome aboard.
Are the bushings fully seated? The larger lip on the drivers side should be down tight against the trailing arms. If the large lip is fully seated then one or two small tack welds on the lip should solve the problem.

They shouldn't be loose as the trailing arm could eventually slide over and rub on the crossmember bracket.

In the past I've found that using a hammer to install control arm bushings can distort the hole and or the bushing case so nowadays I use a press or I use a puller/pusher with some all-thread like in the link.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...698377&page=11

Good luck and we would love to see some pictures of your truck.

[70C10I6]

One bushing did seat correctly with the large lip tight against the trailing arm. The loose one would not stay tight against the arm, but would bounce back up about 1/16" each time I struck it with the hammer. I believe you are correct about the hammer distorting the hole. I tapped it down against the arm softly using a flat ended punch and hammer. I proceed to put 2 tack welds on each end of both bushings. They look good and will last a long time. Thank you for your response.

[70C10I6]

Thanks for your reply Leon, I did mic the bushing outer shells and the trailing arm bores. On each trailing arm the bore on the drivers side is larger than the passenger side. The bushing outer shell was also larger on the flanged end so you must start the installation from the larger side of the trailing arm. The bushing outer shell was about .003" larger respectively. It should have been a good fit up, but I guess the hammer was too big! I'll do it differently if I ever need to do it again. Thanks Ray

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 70C10I6

Thanks for your reply Leon, I did mic the bushing outer shells and the trailing arm bores. On each trailing arm the bore on the drivers side is larger than the passenger side. The bushing outer shell was also larger on the flanged end so you must start the installation from the larger side of the trailing arm. The bushing outer shell was about .003" larger respectively. It should have been a good fit up, but I guess the hammer was too big! I'll do it differently if I ever need to do it again. Thanks Ray

I call it on the job training... .. Thanks for your follow-up on this.

LockDoc

[Accelo]

With modern (China) made parts I would check a different manufacture to compare OD measurement.
Parts now days are measured with a micrometer, marked with a crayon and cut with an ax.
They can be anything. I have a lot more faith in the GM sized holes, in the arms, than the aftermarket parts.
Any truck rebuild is fraught with issues just like this, aftermarket part not fitting correctly.
Appears you have solved this issue.
Cheers.