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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 24
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When you change your a&b pillar how do you get to these bolts?
My rocker boxes are solid, but the very tip of my a pillar is rusted so I'm going to replace it and I think I'm going to replace The back part against the rear fender... But there are two bolts from the inside that I can't get to because they are inside the rocker boxes which are solid. They will be removed because I am replacing that inner metal of the inner rocker. Do y'all fool with these or do you just weld them solid?
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#2 |
All stock and staying that way
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Elkland, PA
Posts: 2,084
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When I replaced the complete RH bedside on my 1970, I was able to access the two rear bolts by removing the bolted on end cap on the rocker box. The front two are not accessible unless the entire rocker box is removed. Those were installed prior to the rocker box being welded on at the factory.
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1970 K/5 Blazer CST 4WD, TOTM winner December 2024! Medium Bronze poly, 93k ACT. miles, 350, 4 speed, rear positraction, 16.5" x 8.25" HD Kelsey Hayes wheel option, tilt, tach, vacuum, AM/FM, manual throttle...Dad ordered and purchased new 4/70. Currently frame off restoration finally getting close to completion.. ![]() 1970 K20, To be a clone of my Grandfather's K20, Dark Blue poly, 350, 4 speed, 16.5" X 8.25" Kelsey Hayes wheel option, tilt, tach, vacuum, AM radio. Latest project truck 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 2WD, Dark Blue/White, 90K ACT. miles, 402, TH400, 4.10 open, tilt, tach, vacuum, A/C, AM/FM, manual throttle.. A mostly original paint never rusted Texas survivor... ![]() 2017 Sierra 1500 SLT 4WD, Black, 46k miles, 5.3, 6L80E, 3.42 LS, 20" polished wheels, everything but moonroof and 6.2... 2019 Canyon SLT 4WD, White, 67k miles, 3.6, 8L45, 3.23 LS, 18" wheels |
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