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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Mo
Posts: 963
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Driveshaft help!
I am having a delimma with my 67 LWB chevy. Several months ago my built turbo 350 went south. I finally found me another tranny but this time its a TH400. Now in total length its a half inch longer than my 350 but thats not really the issue. My problem is that the one piece driveshaft i was using is now too long to use with a 400 slip yoke. All my other 2 piece shafts are all wrong too! The 400 yokes I have are 8 inches or so long and only 2.5-3 inches or so actually slide into the tranny and thats all the way in, leaving a considerable amount outside the tranny and no room to move either. I have a new yoke waiting for me at the parts store in town but its way too long also. Money is a big issue for me so its not as simple as just have a new shaft made. I need to know what you all are running for drive shafts and tranny yokes on your long bed 2wd 1/2 ton with a 400turbo. By the way my engine is in the stock v8 location, and the 400 is short tail shaft. Let me hear from ya cause this is driving me nuts.
Stano ![]() ![]()
__________________
New daily driver 96 Chevy K3500 crew cab dually 53,000 miles 350 Vortec 4L80 Nice ride 67 Chevy C-10 LWB Built 350 TH-400 Wifes ride and family rig: 2001 Furd Expedition 5.4 Liter ![]() Kickin back in Rolla,Mo. USA "Do the thing you fear most and the death of fear is certain" Mark Twain |
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#2 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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You don't need to get whole new drive shaft, they can cut it down for you for much less. I think I can have it done locally (ballanced too) for less than 100 bucks.
Figure in the down time, the new U-joints (and carrier bearing since you won't find a one piece shaft) and labor if you farm it out for this work, and the 100 bucks may actually be cheaper. Onless you get lucky and find a direct bolt in set up for cheap. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Mo
Posts: 963
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Its not really the driveshaft, its when the yoke is on the shaft it makes the whole thing too friggin long. Won't slide into the tranny far enough. The yoke I ordered from parts store for the truck is like 8+ inches long 6inches of that is the barrel of the yoke and almost $100. I had one here like the one I ordered. Is there a shorter yoke for a 400?
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#4 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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I didn't notice the part where you said the tranny is only 1/2 inch longer than the old one...
I have one here that is about 3 1/2 inches long...the slip part is 3 1/2, the whole unit is 6 inches from strap mounting surface to tip. Good holes, slip surface has no rust...$30 to your door. I can get you a pic here in a min if you like. |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Grant, Alabama
Posts: 504
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If its just the yoke thats too long, just cut some off the end of the yoke and chamfer the new edges.
__________________
72 Chevy C20, SOLD (Dang it.) 09 Challanger RT six speed in all black. 74 Datsun 710 wagon, all 1.8 liters of screaming Datsun power. 73 C10 long bed, 350/350 combo, nice shape. |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Mo
Posts: 963
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Longhorn man if ya got a pic that would be great. I looked up in the tail housing and there seems to be a ring of some sort on the output shaft that stops the yoke and there are no splines beyond that. I need a yoke for the 1310 series u-joint. The yoke u have, does it have a bolt hole in it for it to bolt to the output shaft. My dads is like u describe but has a hole to bolt it to the tranny on his 78. I need one without the bolt hole.
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#7 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ill
Posts: 9,403
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the best way I know, is slide the slip yolk in the 400 t till it bottoms, then pull it back 3/4 " & measure center of caps to center of caps to get the shaft lenght. to cut & balance the shaft is no big issue($75-100). Good luck,crazyL
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__________________
69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
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#8 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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No bolt hole...as a matter of fact, it is open in the end. It says spicer on it...NFC on the 1310 series u-joint or not...never used it.
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#9 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Oh, remember, a dollar bill is about 6 1/8 inch long. That's why I have it there to show the size.
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Mo
Posts: 963
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Long horn man the opening for the u-joint is 3 1/4 inches across and the cap dia. is1 1/16 of a inch. That looks like it might work if its for the right u-joint. I have one more place to check here locally that i was just informed might have one if not I will be gettin touch with ya if it will fit my u-joints.
Stan |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Mo
Posts: 963
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My first clue should have been, when the dude at the parts store here in town that ordered me one asked "Turbo 400?.....Is that a chevy engine?" I hate O'Reilly's
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#12 | |
Fabricate till you "puke"
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ill
Posts: 9,403
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Quote:
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__________________
69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
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