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05-01-2004, 01:30 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Neenah, WI
Posts: 327
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6 cyl Power Brake Conversion Completed - pics attached
I finally officially finished up my power brake conversion on my 6 cylinder c10. The job was wrapped up by obtaining the proper air cleaner and getting it painted and installed. Without a doubt finding the air cleaner was the hardest part of the job. Many thanks to members pound41 and Kas68c10 who help me assemble the air cleaner parts and pieces!! The brakes work great now. They are front drum and stop nicely.
One interesting note on this project was the pushrod from the pedal to the booster. Many have trouble with this being too short when converting from manual to power. I have read about people cutting and making the rod longer, people running the adjustable end with only a few threads engaged (scary!!), others with the pedal not coming all the way back up to the rubber stop, etc. My solution was to locate a longer adjustable push rod end (eye) that put that onto the rod that came with the booster. It looks just like the original end except it is about ¾” longer. I forgot what the push rod end came out of, but it was likely an older GM. I recall walking around a yard one day looking under dashes until I found the longer push rod end. Now there is plenty of thread engagement, the pedal comes all the way back up to the rubber stop bumper and nothing had to be cut or cobbled. Here are a few pics: Rak |
05-01-2004, 02:32 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Clanton, AL
Posts: 1,253
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Which brake lines did you replace? The one from the Prop valve to teh brake?
__________________
85' CUCV M1009!!! The newest addition! 6.2diesel, Th400, NP208, & only 36k miles! 70' C-10 LWB Fleetside - Looking good these days! 05' Dodge Neon 88' Winner Escape Sport 1750 - 4.3v6 94' Seadoo SP 84' Honda TRX200, bare nekkid. Just a frame & tires. Always looking for another project or any good deal! |
05-01-2004, 02:38 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Neenah, WI
Posts: 327
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I actually rebent the original lines from the prop that lead down by the frame and onward. I used a non-power or original drum brake type master so the short lines between the master and the prop valve didn't require any changes.
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05-01-2004, 02:44 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Clanton, AL
Posts: 1,253
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Did you have to drill any holes for the brake booster bracket, or did they line up correctly? I'm about to try this tomorrow.
thanks, John
__________________
85' CUCV M1009!!! The newest addition! 6.2diesel, Th400, NP208, & only 36k miles! 70' C-10 LWB Fleetside - Looking good these days! 05' Dodge Neon 88' Winner Escape Sport 1750 - 4.3v6 94' Seadoo SP 84' Honda TRX200, bare nekkid. Just a frame & tires. Always looking for another project or any good deal! |
05-01-2004, 08:39 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Neenah, WI
Posts: 327
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Nope, the bracket bolts right up. However, there were no holes in the forewall for the brace. I put on one of two possible braces. Some people don't put on any braces.
Rak |
05-01-2004, 12:54 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 1,268
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my old air cleaner looks good on your truck. That aircleaner once traveled the streets of D.C. now its in WI , Nice job!
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05-03-2004, 08:27 AM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 127
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can you post a picture of your new linkage rod. i need to figure mine out.
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