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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,335
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283 vs 327
Im thinking about building a engine over the next 1-2 years in the garage and I am not sure which would be a good one to go with. Any details on the pros and cons for the 283 and 327 would be appreciated.
Thanks |
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#2 |
hmm...
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Culver, Indiana
Posts: 1,631
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The 283 is probably more rare and would be the one I'd build just for the cool factor, however I don't think you could get the torque out of a 283 that you could with a 327. For every day driveability, I think I'd go with the 327
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1983 Oldsmobile Delta 88 1967 Chevy C-10 stripper www.fcrperformance.com - wanna go...faster? talk to FCR. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Wellington, Ks
Posts: 10,188
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Just a thought but if you have access to both blocks complete consider using the 327 block (larger bore) and the 283 crank (shorter stroke) to give you the quick rpm range of a 302 CI. mouse motor. Very quick revs and has the best of two worlds, the larger bore and shorter stroke.
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1971 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 LWB 350 V-8 Was sm465-now 350TH/np205 Tilt, Tach, Towhooks Original Truck AM/FM Wellington, Ks |
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#4 | |
Don't say "Oops!", Doctor
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 677
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Quote:
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'Mutt 1968 CST LWB: R.I.P. 1967 Chevelle: TPI 454 beast 1967 C10 SWB: Claimed when Bumpster didn't put it on his list |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: NH
Posts: 2,266
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Both are good motors, I have seen some 283 have some nice torque. Now considering where gas prices are going the 283 might not be a bad idea mixed with a topend from a later model Camaro or Firebird TPI setup and an overdrive trans you might be able to get around 25+mpg. JMO
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1967 C10 - SWBSS Pro Street 427sbc, 700R4 & 4.10 Gears 1948 Chevy FleetMaster Coupe, LS1, (almost done) 1950 Chevy StyleLine Coupe 250/6 3x2 Dueces 2009 Toyota Tundra 1996 Harley RoadKing "I maybe getting old, but I can still burn rubber with the best of them" |
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#6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Valley Center KS
Posts: 3,525
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On the TPI note though, I'm planning on putting a L98 (350 TPI) in my truck. I don't care that much about the HP anymore, but that low end grunt is gonna be nice ![]() ![]() If I were building a high rpm motor, I'd have to go with a 400 block with a 327 crank and longer rods. (Thinking) Might just have to use my crank out of my 327 to do that once I get the L98 (/thinking) |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Sahuarita, AZ USA
Posts: 2,033
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Looks like it comes down to what you want to do with it. If you are just building one to have a spare, go ahead. If you want the cheapest stock one, I think the 350 kits are the cheapest.
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Bill - Tucson, AZ 47 Chevrolet 2 dr sedan 56 Chevrolet 210 2 dr sedan 66 Chevrolet Malibu 2 dr 4 speed 71 Chevrolet C30 Longhorn 86 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS (Sold) 01 Chevrolet Tahoe IM - BUSTERWIVE@aol.com |
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#8 |
GEARHEAD
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 6,122
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I have a 283 and its been a good engine, but I would trade it for a 327 or 350 anytime. I've hotrodded mine up quite a bit and the power is good and the revs climb nicely, but the low end grunt just isn't there with an automatic tranny. I used to have a manual tranny and a much stronger cam shaft and it was a blast to drive. You could the the rpm's up and let the clutch go. With the original 3 on the tree I could smoke 295/50-15's for half a block.
Given all my experience with the engine in different tranny combos, I'd use the 327 as a first choice. If there was a problem with the block that made it difficult to rebuild, then use the 283. If you have an automatic tranny, definely use the 327, or even a 350. BTW, the 283 will not give much advantage for gas mileage. Mine gets about 11mpg. I know it's not stock, but I can't imagine one of these trucks getting more than 16 mpg no matter what gas fired engine you drop in it. HG ![]()
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If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 ![]() 72 ![]() HG's Plow Truck '78 ![]() Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff |
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#9 |
All Go, No Show
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Creighton SK
Posts: 286
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283. done right they will sit there and sing at 7000-8000rpm all day, such a short stroke. Besides a lot of people underestimate a 283, you could surprise a lot of people. A guy in town has one with a few mods done to it and he revs that thing up to 8300rpm, but has to back off because that's when the valves start to float.:p
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69 LWB Rebuilt 283, aluminum intake, edelbrock carb, Mild Melling Cam, HEI. |
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#10 |
Almost done!
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Woodstock GA
Posts: 193
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I have had both and the 350 is the way to go.
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The 1970 SWB Project Removed 6cyl manual trans, manual everything V8-350 Auto/PS/PDB Blazer Fuel Tank Behind the Marker Light Fuel Fill |
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#11 | |
20' Daredevil (Ret)
![]() Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 13,643
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- Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay |
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#12 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ill
Posts: 9,403
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I like those old 283's, but they are better suited to a liteweight car. for a 3800-4000 lb truck, i would go with the 327, or even a 350. I drove a 71 c 10 with a .060 over 283(300 hp 350 heads, & cam to match ,4brl Holley & headers). Running through an old M21 muncie (close ratio box), & 3.73 gears, it ran decent & got 15-16 mpg on the road. it did still lack the low end "grunt" when the truck was loaded heavy tho.... crazyL
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Grant, Alabama
Posts: 504
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If you cant find a 327 block, get a good used 350 4 bolt main, its the same block, but you have to find a 68-69 327 since they use the same larger main journbal size and con rod big end size like the 350. Prior to 68 the 283-327 used the small journal blocks but had forged steel cranks. The only forged steel crank in the 68-69 327 was maybe the Vette version and maybe an aftermarket piece. Of course you would need the 327 specific pistons since they have a different pin placement than the longer stroke 350.
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72 Chevy C20, SOLD (Dang it.) 09 Challanger RT six speed in all black. 74 Datsun 710 wagon, all 1.8 liters of screaming Datsun power. 73 C10 long bed, 350/350 combo, nice shape. |
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#14 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Quick tidbit of info, if you are doing up a 283, and watching your cash, a set of later model 305 heads are great, already set up for unleaded, small cc's, and a dime a dozen. If you don't plan on spinning it into the stratisphere, then the smaller ports will be enough to feed a smaller c.i. engine and keep intake velosity up for some improved low end.
All things being the same, i would opt for more cubes myself...a 400 small block can be made to look like a stock 283...and it would take a heluva good eye to catch the difference in a car (or truck) when you pop the hood at a show or at a race. (speak softly and carry a huge stick...or long crank) |
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#15 |
Resident Young Old Dude !
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Nevada
Posts: 1,948
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It just depends on what you want to do with this motor, You want Nastalgia, A 283 would be cool,I had a 283 -Powerglide in a 64 ElCamino that got 24 MPG. But as Crazy says, Don't bother with the home made 302 in these trucks, you would be disappointed. That combination is a kick in the A$$ for a little Nova, I built one 25 years ago and put it in a 60 Ford Falcon, Straight axle, Ford 9", 4:10 rear. 4 spd. Light weight, immediate throttle response, super quick R's
A friend put one in a 70 Chevelle, all he did was bad mouth it, The car weighed too much. They have no bottom end Power. If you became set on building/running one, I would recommend Short gears, At least 4:10's and maybe even 4:56's, And a narrow ratio 4-spd so you keep the RPM up in it's working range. There's been a few people getting 17 to 18 MPG in our trucks, I'm not sure how ? I get 10 to 12. have for lots of years with three totally different motors, and three different rear end ratios. |
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#16 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ill
Posts: 9,403
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I still have a "virgin" pooch 83(64 block) packed in grease in the basement, also 2 virgin steel cranks & 3 sets of sj rods(1 set of 327 sj rods). I plan to build it one day(after I win the lottery) .....that high revvin little sb needs a 6-71 on top to scoot my 4200 lb truck down the road! a big hole in the hood, with a "huffer" & a pair of quads would be freakin cool!
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
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#17 | |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Quote:
Just a heads up, I know you old ppl don't like pain...at least, with as much as y'all complain about your backs and hips and everything else. ![]() |
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#18 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ill
Posts: 9,403
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LMAO! Good call Andy......I could have my 2 boys haul that stuff out of the basement
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
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