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Old 07-02-2004, 07:54 AM   #1
GMCjunkie
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New Burb Question...

My transmission pan is leaking around the gasket, I havent done it before, but, I know cant be that hard of a task to change, but any advice or tips to make it easier, or quicker would be appreciated. Things to "look out" for or "no-no's" Also, there a filter in there too, is there not??

Thanks again!!!
junk
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Old 07-02-2004, 08:09 AM   #2
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If your pan doesn't have a drain plug (most don't) loosen the bolts and let it down on one end (usually front) and drain into large pan to catch fluid. If it is a turbo 350 it will have a square filter with two screws in the middle holding it in place on the valve body (just remove and replace) sometimes there will be a little build up of stuff in the pan, (normal cluch wear) wipe that out, clean off the old gasket and put her back together. Add fluid as needed and should be good to go. Some use a small amount of silicone gasket sealer on the gasket to help seal it, but not alot, don't want it getting into the fluid and plugging something inside the transmission. Not too tough, just a dirty job...good luck, Gord
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Old 07-02-2004, 08:20 AM   #3
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You might have a drain plug. I know all of my K20s do. Sure makes it a lot easier. Fully expect to be wearing transmission fluid if you don't....lol.

I agree not that big of a job but very messy. Filter is easy to change as well.

We will be waiting for pics...
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Old 07-02-2004, 08:29 AM   #4
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I am not sure if it happens to everyone else, but we end up with fluid everywhere, so we cover the floor with newspapers to catch the fluid. The transmissions seem to drip forever.

I would also suggest checking the shift lever shaft seal as when it leaks it shows up on the pan and makes the pan look like it is leaking.

Jim
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Old 07-02-2004, 10:47 AM   #5
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JimK is right. I've had that happen more than once. It's common on vehicles that sit for extended times. They claim the converter unloads and raises the fluid level to create that leak. And, yes, it's a messy job. The pics we want are of you, Jodie, after you've dropped the pan. You're going to be dirty.
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Old 07-02-2004, 12:54 PM   #6
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If it does not have a pan plug, now a real good time to put one in. They are not expensive and make the next change much cleaner.
If you put in a plug, you might want to tack weld the part inside the pan so it cannot turn later.
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Old 07-02-2004, 01:05 PM   #7
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If you decide to replace the filter buy one that has the gasket packaged flat insted of waded up inside of a box. It makes life alot easier than to have to flaten a gasket out.
Have fun.
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Old 07-02-2004, 04:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldiron
If you decide to replace the filter buy one that has the gasket packaged flat insted of waded up inside of a box. It makes life alot easier than to have to flaten a gasket out.
Have fun.

JODIE -- IT'S A MESSY JOB & A MAJOR PITA. DON'T SCRIMP ON THE GASKET. GET A GOOD THICK CORK ONE (NOT THE THIN PAPER TYPE). I USSUALLY GET MINE FROM A LOCAL TRANSMISSION SHOP WHERE THEY BUY THEM IN BULK & GET THE GOOD ONES. IF IT'S TWISTED OR NOT FLAT, A GOOD IRONING WILL MAKE IT FLAT AGAIN. I NEVER EVER PUT SILICONE ON THEM. JUST MAKE SURE THE TRANNY SURFACE & THE PAN SURFACE ARE GOOD & CLEAN. (I LIKE TO WIPE EM DOWN WITH LAQUER THINNER) BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVERTIGHTEN THE PAN AS THEY WARP REALLY EASILY & TIGHTEN THEM ALL UP A LITTLE AT A TIME. I FIND THAT A 1/4" RATCHETT OR EVEN A NUT DRIVER SUPPLIES ALL THE TORQUE NEEDED. JOHN
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Old 07-02-2004, 05:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyardjohn

JODIE -- IT'S A MESSY JOB & A MAJOR PITA. DON'T SCRIMP ON THE GASKET. GET A GOOD THICK CORK ONE (NOT THE THIN PAPER TYPE). I USSUALLY GET MINE FROM A LOCAL TRANSMISSION SHOP WHERE THEY BUY THEM IN BULK & GET THE GOOD ONES. IF IT'S TWISTED OR NOT FLAT, A GOOD IRONING WILL MAKE IT FLAT AGAIN. I NEVER EVER PUT SILICONE ON THEM. JUST MAKE SURE THE TRANNY SURFACE & THE PAN SURFACE ARE GOOD & CLEAN. (I LIKE TO WIPE EM DOWN WITH LAQUER THINNER) BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVERTIGHTEN THE PAN AS THEY WARP REALLY EASILY & TIGHTEN THEM ALL UP A LITTLE AT A TIME. I FIND THAT A 1/4" RATCHETT OR EVEN A NUT DRIVER SUPPLIES ALL THE TORQUE NEEDED. JOHN
This is good advice here Jodie, no one else mentioned about over tightening these bolts which I have seen that a lot of, People have a tendancy to overtighten the bolts and it squishes & breaks the gasket. I never use any silicon either.
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Old 07-02-2004, 05:31 PM   #10
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Ditto on the gasket.....I like a good cork gasket..... just smear a little axle bearing grease on both sides of the gasket & stick it to the pan. A little rtv wont hurt anything , if you like that route better.....just stay away from the "sticky sealers" that can be dissolved by hot ATF(they will cause problems). Best of luck,crazyL
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Old 07-02-2004, 06:15 PM   #11
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I got a rubber gasket from OReilly's and I like it better than the cork. I have reused it several times with no problems.
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Old 07-03-2004, 03:58 AM   #12
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Thanks everyone!! Hoping to get to this project really soon. Weather and days off permitting. Another Q.. How much tranny fluid will it take to fill it back up again??

Y'aller wanting pics??!! .. .... youre crazy!! Be careful what you wish for, lol
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Old 07-03-2004, 04:03 AM   #13
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JimK... Whats a "shift lever shaft"?? Where is it located and what does it look like?? Does this have a gasket also?? Thanks
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Old 07-03-2004, 06:33 AM   #14
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GMC Junkie,

If you follow the shift linkage to the transmission, there is a 1/2" diameter shaft that the linkage connects to on the outside of the shaft. The shaft
goes from the outside of the transmission to the inside where it shifts the valve. The shaft is sealed by a pressed in lip seal.

I can fax you a couple of pics of the shaft and seal if you like. They are in a transmission manual and it shows removal of the seal, outside view and inside view of the shaft and linkage.

Jim
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Old 07-03-2004, 06:57 AM   #15
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Jodie, we all have faith in your ability....

What did you find with the fuel problem you were having?
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Old 07-03-2004, 07:15 AM   #16
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hello all, I did see one point that was not covered, and is really over looked, is if the pan has been over tightened, and caused the pan around the bolt holes, to distort, causing it not to seal properly not how tight you get it, I have used a ball peen hammer as a dolly, and set the pan edge on a work bench, and with anoth hammer tapped the ball peen hammer till, it was flush with the rest of the pans mating surface, anyone correct me if I am wrong here,
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Old 07-03-2004, 09:31 AM   #17
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deth 1970 hit on what I saw was missing. It's one of those "little" things that drive you nuts.

Yeah, Jodie, what about your sputtering problem....did you get it fixed? What did you find the problem to be?
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Old 07-03-2004, 11:35 AM   #18
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For her previous problem check this thread.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=110294
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Old 07-03-2004, 03:57 PM   #19
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JimK,, thanks, If it comes about that I need to change that, Ill have you send or post pics, thanks for your trouble.

Blue beard... thanks, Im glad someone has faith, lol Yes the other problem was mainly the "module" and the "vacuum advance"... She runs like a bat outta hell now!!

deth 1970... and Chevloray... thanks, I will be sure to check for that...

Krue.. thanks to you for posting the link to my previous post.
y'all take care and THANKS a bunch!!!
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Old 07-04-2004, 02:15 AM   #20
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Holds 10 quarts total & 5 pints for refill, per 72 owner's manual.
A portion of the fluid will stay in the converter, but would have extra on hand for any drain down. Seems like I used more than 5 pints last time, but its been awhile.
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Old 07-04-2004, 03:43 AM   #21
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A few 72's.. Thank You, I appreciate it!!
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