![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Saving 1 truck at a time!
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 6,465
|
Drip Rail Prep
I just stripped my drip rails down to bare metal this evening with a high speed grinder and small wire wheel. It is clean and shiny. What's the best prep to use under the seam sealer? Should it be sanded to give it some tooth and then use Prepsol? I wonder if I should use an epoxy primer or POR15 under the seam sealer in case it decides to crack and leak just like the OEM sealer? Any thoughts here?
__________________
'68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary) |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Center City, MN, USA
Posts: 3,253
|
TTT.
I was thinking about getting a tube of seam sealer while I'm waiting to get my engine back from the machine shop. Anybody?
__________________
'70 cab, '71 chassis, 383, TH350, NP205. '71 Malibu convertible '72 Malibu hard top Center City, MN |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Saskatoon,SK,Canada
Posts: 2,476
|
If it's clean and rust free I'd use either a metal prep or a washprimer followed by epoxy primer and a primer surfacer. I'd apply the seam sealer after all bodywork and sanding are done to keep primer build up off of the sealer.
__________________
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Saving 1 truck at a time!
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 6,465
|
I may not paint the truck for a year or so and may leave it in primer. So I am guessing that I should do all the primer steps expect the last one and then put on the seam sealer and call it good for now. I wonder about leaving the seam sealer exposed to the UV for a year...probably should prime it as well.
__________________
'68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary) |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 358
|
Drip rail
I emailed 3M to ask them what to use on the drip rail. They told me to use Drip-Chek #8531. They said there are some better products that you can use but you need a high dollar tool like a caulking gun to put it on. They said the Drip-hek will work fine. I just did mine about a week ago. After you put it on it will lay down flat when it starts to dry. You can also put a second coat on but if it has been a couple of days they said to lightly sand it first.
__________________
1980 Chevy Shortbed Pickup 1969 Z28 engine Turbo 350 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 358
|
Drip rail
I forgot to tell you how much I used.It took about 1 1/2 tubes to do so I would get at least 2 tubes.
__________________
1980 Chevy Shortbed Pickup 1969 Z28 engine Turbo 350 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Saving 1 truck at a time!
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 6,465
|
Mixup, How did you prep the surface and how did it work on the vertical section? Is it UV sensitive or do I have to prime it soon after applying?
__________________
'68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary) |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|