New Alternator is IN!! Correct tool to tighten it?

[TIMSPEED]

FINALLY!! No more flickering headlights and crazy tach! The guy at Kragens said my alternator wasn't bad (he tested it, and it tested the SAME numbers as a brand new alternator), but he said it sounded like the bearing was going out, so he warrantied it, and gave me a shiny new one. I also noticed, however, that the BAT wire going to the alternator was completely broken up on the crimp to the ring terminal. So I cut it back a bit, and crimped on a new ring. With the new alternator in, I warmed it up, got the choke off, and the idle went to 650rpm. So I got out the good ole' voltmeter to test...
1.) Battery read 13.25v+
2.) Alternator read 12.9v+

This was WITH THE HEADLIGHTS ON, at 650rpm!!! WOO HOO!! I'm ONE HAPPY CAMPER!

Also though, what's the CORRECT tool to tighten the alternator? Usually I just use a big pry bar, but it's not doing the job. Isn't there like a special tool, that "cups" the alternator?

[bigblock73]

I have always used a pry bar or large screw driver wrapped in a rag...works fine for me.

I think you may need a tool called a "bicep" Tim!

[1FaastC10]

never fear Jeff, he'll post in 2 days saying it didnt fix his problem, just like he always does.

pry bar should do the job just nicely, every system i've ever worked on without a tensioner got this treatment, and it hasn't failed me yet.

[C-10volvo]

Originally Posted by 1FaastC10

never fear Jeff, he'll post in 2 days saying it didnt fix his problem, just like he always does.

pry bar should do the job just nicely, every system i've ever worked on without a tensioner got this treatment, and it hasn't failed me yet.

if all else fails, duct tape it...

[1974ChevyC10]

Originally Posted by 1FaastC10

pry bar should do the job just nicely, every system i've ever worked on without a tensioner got this treatment, and it hasn't failed me yet.

DITTO
ive used a prybar for that everytime ive had to tension the belt on my alternator-in fact i have this like 3 or 4 ft long screwdriver my sisters ex gave me-well i technically stole it lol but i have it for that reason only since it wont fit in my tool box and its too big for the little bit of automotive repair stuff i do.

[1972C10]

I use a split rim bar wich is kinda like a round 7/16 dia or so prybar I stick it trou the hole in the upper alternator bracket and pry pushing towards the driver side just make sure its flat up against the case

I have used big flathead screwdrivers in the past

[TIMSPEED]

I have muscles AND a big prybar, but it just won't push it STRAIGHT, it just wants to turn crooked and not slide tighter. Seems like it needs a back brace (althoug they never came with one, I know)

[1972C10]

Ive got a ton of them rear braces

Did you try puttin the pry bar trou the hole in the upper bracket? It puts the push right in the center of the alternator.

[TIMSPEED]

Originally Posted by 1972C10

Ive got a ton of them rear braces

Did you try puttin the pry bar trou the hole in the upper bracket? It puts the push right in the center of the alternator.

Tried that, for some reason, it just pushes it off-keel, and not tighter.

[1972C10]

Maybe someone has serviced the truck and lost some parts. i keep the bolts just almost tight i just loosen them enuff to where all i have to do is pry the alt and then put a turn or so to snug it down

How loose are the mounting bolts. AND WHY ARE YOU UP AT 5 AM?

[RockHQ]

I find it quite amusing your alternator reads less voltage than the battery.

Barely over 13 volts is not good either, headlights on or off. Something's wrong with your truck's wiring. Start off by measuring battery voltage from the poles. Then with the engine off but ignition on measure between the exiting wire (from your ignition switch) and the alternator brackets. Then between the BAT wire and the alt. brackets. Then between the exiting wire and battery negative pole, and then the BAT wire and the battery negative pole. Post the results and i'll bet i can pinpoint your problem.

[TIMSPEED]

Originally Posted by RockHQ

Barely over 13 volts is not good either, headlights on or off. Something's wrong with your truck's wiring.

Actually, it's 14.5 volts @ 1000rpm, but at 650, it's 13.

[hotrodhomi]

maybe you could put a smaller pulley on the alt. so that it puts out more a idle.

[badone07]

From looking at your website's "And here it is today!" motor pic...Where's the lower alternator spacer, that comes off the head? I see a bolt in the alternator's lower mounting hole, but what is it actually fastened to? That's probably why you took out the alternator's bearing and it cocks when you try to tighten the belt.

[bigblock73]

Originally Posted by badone07

From looking at your website's "And here it is today!" motor pic...Where's the lower alternator spacer, that comes off the head? I see a bolt in the alternator's lower mounting hole, but what is it actually fastened to? That's probably why you took out the alternator's bearing and it cocks when you try to tighten the belt.

John, very good point! Tim, I do not see the spacer tube either..and without that, your alternator is not fastened correctly and that alone could be causing some of your problems.

[ocbaud]

yeap, you need that bracket.
http://www.ocbaud.com/pictures/engine/350side2.jpg

[TIMSPEED]

I never seen that bracket when I took the motor out. I was thinking about that though, because it seems like something would be there. But I was looking at it, and it didn't look like that lower hole would line up with the cylinder head. Can I MAKE that spacer thingy, out of a piece of metal tube?

[hotrodhomi]

you could hit the junkyard and buy them both for cheap.

[bagged81]

I just looked at your cardomain page. It looks like you have a fan...

steelbender: I liked it better stock.

lol

You got more photos of the vette btw?

[badone07]

I would just go to a junkyard and pickup the whole setup. This way you have everything you need, including the bolt. Then it's done right and if any other problems occur, you can rule that out.

[Tx Firefighter]

I've seen a bunch of them come through the shop with a stack of lugnuts taking up the space after they've left the old bracket on the alternator they turned in for a core sometime in the past.

If you're really trick, use a chrome deep socket as a spacer for the added bling.

[TIMSPEED]

Hitting up the junkyard is a No-No here, cuz all the yards around here, the trucks BARELY have an engine left in them. Besides that, the yard would probably charge me up the azz for the little thing. I think I'll just do what I did for my power steering pump bracket...use metal tubing to make the spacer. Then, I'll be able to get my belt nice and tight hopefully.

[badone07]

Doesn't have to come from a truck. The spacer from any small block with the alternator mounted on rightside (passenger's), accessory holes in the heads and has a long waterpump setup, will work. Personally, don't see the logic of dressing up a motor, only to rig up some sort of spacer. But not my truck, good luck with that. Do you want the measurement of a real spacer, before you make one?

[1972C10]

You could Make one out of black pipe. say 3/8NPT just cut it down to size and get one long enough that you can cut the threads off both sides.

[1972C10]

BTW I would sell you one if you cant find one. 10 shipped