Am I stupid...

[toddtheodd]

...or is there a trick to these motor mounts???
I'm needing to change the motor mounts on my truck due to the driver's side mount going out. What I can't figure out is how to get to the bolts, and what size the bolts are since I can't see them. The motor is a 350 and I have long tube hooker headers on the truck. On the drivers side the power steering pump and headers are in the way. On the passenger side it's the fuel pump and the headers again.
I need tricks and tips please.
Or I'm willing to buy somebody a case of beer if they will help. I don't want to take it to a shop as they want upwards of $160 for the job ($130+ for labor alone since the mounts were 26 for the pair.). Besides that I am needing to learn how to do this since I will be later pulling the motor to replace it with a "freshened up" motor.
Oh, and I need this done today as the mounts are in pretty bad shape and it is my daily driver that will be taking me to work tomorrow (I hope )
Todd

[da-burb]

You have found the most difficult part in changing motormounts. Getting a socket on the bolt(5/8" I believe, by the way) and finding room for your hands. You need to be double jointed and standing on your head. After doing several engine installs I finally figured out that it is easier to unbolt the engine stands. The 3 nuts and bolts(9/16") on each side are easy to get at and easy to align with a big phillips screwdriver. Good luck!

[toddtheodd]

Engine stands? That would be the big thing the motor mount is attached too correct? Between the motor mount and the frame?
I thought about that but I didn't know how many bolts were on the bottom part. Just one doesn't sound so bad as the other two are easy to get too.
Todd

[Burnsman]

I just pulled a motor yesterday. The bolt that is attached to the motor mount/frame bracket does indeed take a 5/8" socket. What a PITA.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Yup, the things that attach the mounts to the frame. There are 2 bolts on top and one that is attached to the suspension cross member. You can reach the backside of the bolts on the X-member by using a long extension. I think these bolts are 9/16. Once they are unbolted from the frame remove the one bolt that attaches them to the mount. I then lifted the motor up just a hair to get them off. Then its all access granted to get the mounts off the motor. Its a lot of work but it needs to be done....so do both sides while your at. Have patience and good luck!

[fatfords]

Todd,
Just a word of advice-check to make sure the threaded insert in the mount matches your bolt. When I changed mine, one of the motor mounts was threaded for a 3/8" fastener and the other was for a 7/16". Both had the same part number and from the same manufacturer. It was very annoying to find this out after laying on my back trying to get that stupid bolt started for about half an hour! Came from AZ and they had no explanation.

Good Luck!

[Brainchild]

Originally Posted by fatfords

Todd,
Both had the same part number and from the same manufacturer. It was very annoying to find this out after laying on my back trying to get that stupid bolt started for about half an hour! Came from AZ and they had no explanation.

Good Luck!

Maybe that's the explanation in itself

An air ratchet makes short order of those bolts if you have one,or can borrow one.They are a major PITA.In fact it might take less time to pull the power steering pump,and fuel pump.It is more work,but it might take less time.I've seen it happen

Good luck

[Longhorn Man]

I was about to mention the air rachet myself. Makes it simple.
Also, unbolting the headrs from the engine isn't a big deal, and even completely removing the headers from the truck isn't too bad a job, and it'll make tons of room for you to crawl up in there and do whatever you have to do.

[toddtheodd]

Well. I'm done.
I pulled the brackets. Had a little trouble lining up the passenger side when putting it back together, but I eventually got it.
I must say that the engine hoist helped out a lot. It is definitely something that I do not regret getting, especially since I got it for $100 at autozone by making them price match pepboys.
As for the air ratchet. I have one. In my other garage. With a bow on it, and a little tag that says "do not use until christmas" . My girlfriend got it for me for christmas. They had to let me in on it since I had the only truck, therefore I had to pick it up.
But.
The stipulation was that I could not use it until christmas.
And I can't tell you had bad I was wanting that thing just now.
Todd

[toddtheodd]

p.s.
Not only was the driver's side mount out, the passenger side mount was just about gone too.
AND!, 5 out of the 6 bolts holding on the engine stands were only finger tight. One was actually already backed off halfway. Good thing I decided to take da-burb's advice on going that route.
Since I know that this is not the original block, I am guessing that this is another little surprise from the p.o.
Todd

[toddtheodd]

Also, unbolting the headrs from the engine isn't a big deal, and even completely removing the headers from the truck isn't too bad a job, and it'll make tons of room for you to crawl up in there and do whatever you have to do.

The biggest thing that got in my way after I decided to go the engine stand route was the sway bar. It was making it REALLY difficult to get to the tops of the very bottom bolts of the engine stand. Lets just say that I didn't know I could bend my arm like that, and that for a second there I thought I was stuck.
Todd

p.s. (again)
My motor also isn't as pretty as yours. Mine was one big oil puddle with a motor thrown in. I have a pretty bad oil leak somewhere, which will be taken care of when I put the new motor in.

[Sweet72]

Did you put new bolts and lock washers on there? The old bolts are probably fatigued.

[toddtheodd]

uhhh....

[Longhorn Man]

That motor may have been pretty....but it knocked like a sunova*****.

[toddtheodd]

One things for sure. I don't have to worry about any rust on ANYTHING in the front of the truck. It was one of those "protective" layers of oil.

[Longhorn Man]

oh yeah, mine had a few layers for added protection.
Here is the chocolate milk maker that came out of it.
And a pic of the pretty knocker for sh!ts and giggles.

[Tx Firefighter]

Andy, that knocking small block of yours is setting on big block frame stands.

You knew that right?

[toddtheodd]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Andy, that knocking small block of yours is setting on big block frame stands.

You knew that right?

Really?
Because those are kinda like what mine looked like.
Todd

[Longhorn Man]

Actually, i think those are V-6 stands. I need to go verify on a V-6 truck in a local wrecking yard.
But yes, As far as I know, they are one and the same...that or I simply had 68 - 71 big block towers.

[Longhorn Man]

look at the uper portion. Mine are recesed, small block trucks didn't get those. They should be flat.
Mine was originally a 305 V 6 truck, I need to find out (it's bugging me now) if these are original, or something they tossed in there to make it work.

[toddtheodd]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

Here is the chocolate milk maker that came out of it.

When I blew the motor in the chevelle (seized it too :p), the sludge that came out was grey. Grey with the consistency of clay. It didn't pour out of the pan, I had to scrape it out with a putty knife.
Todd

[Longhorn Man]

That oil coming out of the pan there had a month to settle and seperate.
Who says oil and water don't mix?

[69ChevyLB]

My 69 307 (now 350) has one 3/8 bolt and one 7/16 bolt. Why?