The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-30-2004, 05:41 PM   #1
Edmond
Registered User
 
Edmond's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,063
Pinion Oil Seal leaking: Need help with the right tools

Okay this is the problem: I have a leaking Pinion Oil Seal. It's not leaking much
but enough to make the underside of the bed pretty greasy.
Anyway this is a job I just can't do my self, so I brought the truck to my local garage.
They couldn't do the job because they didn't had the right tool to remove the nut that holds the oil flange.
They tried everything but did not succeed.
Is the special tool (as mentioned in the 1971 Service Manual on page 4-27) available to buy?
Or can anybody give me an alternitive on any other tool they can use?
Remember, I'm in the Netherlands, so I won't be able to go to Autozone or anything like that very easy :p

Any help on this is much appreciated.

Cya,
Edmond
__________________
1971 Chevy C/20 Longhorn, 350/TH400, Edelbrock Performer, IMPCO 425 LPG Carb
1974 Chevy Camaro Z28 (Original)

-------------------------

The Netherlands
Edmond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2004, 06:07 PM   #2
jhow66
Registered User
 
jhow66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Knoxville Tenn.
Posts: 3,058
Will have to use 3/4 drive socket and pull handle with a "cheater " on end of pull handle. Use long pipe wrench resting against floor to hold yoke. The special tool is just something to hold yoke which the pipe wrench does. Can't remember what size socket fits the nut.(1-1/16 or 1-1/8). Done this just recently on my son's 72 Blazer.
__________________
56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new)
71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO)
65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer
jhow66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2004, 06:12 PM   #3
StingRay
Senior Member
 
StingRay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Saskatoon,SK,Canada
Posts: 2,476
Take a piece of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1/8 angle iron acouple of feet long and grind a semi circle part way out of one of the flanges on the angle near one end so that you can overlay the angle onto the pinion flange such that you can mark two of the u-joint bolt holes on it yet still be able to access the pinion nut. Drill holes and bolt it the the pinion yoke. Use this as a lever to hold the pinion from turning. Aquire an impact socket big enough for the nut and make sure that the piece of angle has a big enough area clearanced to allow the socket on the nut. Count the number of threads exposed past the nut and mark the nut for clocking in relation to the pinion shaft with a punch for reference. You will need to get the nut back to exactly where it was plus a hair when you tighten it back up. Use your impact wrench on a medium air setting to get the nut started but don't let it spin it more than a fraction of a turn or you won't be able to count the number of turns the nut takes to come off. You should know how many turns it takes so you have a better ideal of how far it has to turn back on to be in the same place. If you can get the nut off with regular hand tools go for it but they are usually way to tight whenever I try them. With the nut off remove the pinion yoke(use a puller if necessary) and examine it's condition. If it has a substantial groove in it get a speedy sleeve to repair it. Install your new seal and then use some non hardening sealant on the yoke splines. I'd use some on the seal where it seals between the outer edge of the seal and the diff housing too. Reasemble all of the parts as they came off and tighten the nut back up to exactly the same # of turns it took to get it off. Line up your marks and verify that the same # of threads are left exposed. You may need the impact for this also. You want to get it a teensy bit tighter than it was to make sure the sleeve is in compression but not crushed any further. It's really not that tough once you do one.
__________________
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Canada

Last edited by StingRay; 11-30-2004 at 11:08 PM.
StingRay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2004, 06:22 PM   #4
Tx Firefighter
Watch out for your cornhole !
 
Tx Firefighter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
Or you can have someone hold their foot on the brake pedal to keep the yoke from turning.
__________________
I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin
Tx Firefighter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2004, 08:54 PM   #5
JimKshortstep4x4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Muskegon,MI,USA
Posts: 6,026
Smile

A good impact wrench will usually break the nut loose. I have done dozens of rear end pinion removals and have not run into one that could not be broken loose with an impact.

If you are installing a new crush sleeve than you will need a tool to hold the pinion. Otherwise just replacing the seal should not be a very big job.

Be sure to check the vent tube as they do plug up and the pressure will force fluid out of the rear end.

Jim
JimKshortstep4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2004, 12:11 AM   #6
gmc67swb
Registered User
 
gmc67swb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mesquite, Tx
Posts: 396
Mine was an ''1 1/8. I had my wife stand on the brake and I used a half inch drive rachet and a cheater pipe. Now there is a special tool to drive the seal in properly. I didn't use one and it turned out fine. I found out a few years later (about the tool)when I had the gears and carrier swapped by a shop.

Just a note..my rear end is a Dana..my pinion is shimmed and does not use a crush sleeve. Not sure if they're all like that. I believe the torque is around 200 ft/lbs.
__________________
GM 330HP/350, Magnuson 122HH, Tremec TKO 5spd

Last edited by gmc67swb; 12-01-2004 at 12:15 AM.
gmc67swb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2004, 06:54 PM   #7
Edmond
Registered User
 
Edmond's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,063
Thanks for all the ideas guys!!

Cya,
Edmond
__________________
1971 Chevy C/20 Longhorn, 350/TH400, Edelbrock Performer, IMPCO 425 LPG Carb
1974 Chevy Camaro Z28 (Original)

-------------------------

The Netherlands
Edmond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2004, 09:24 PM   #8
badpeanut
Not a bad nut after all..
 
badpeanut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: ND
Posts: 1,759
I've done three of these myself. StingRay's advise on counting the turns and using non-hardening sealer are good. I also mark the nut position with paint to insure I don't miscount. I did mine with only a 1/2" drive breaker bar, appropriate size socket, floor jack (jack on the breaker bar for loosening and tightening), and piece of wood with a clearance hole drilled in the center (for driving the seal in). I set the parking brake and block the rear wheels.
badpeanut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2004, 09:31 PM   #9
LONGHAIR
just can't cover up my redneck
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 11,414
gmc67swb, is right. This should be a Dana axle and it does not have a crush sleeve. You don't need to do all of that counting, it is strictly a torque thing.
LONGHAIR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2004, 10:18 PM   #10
nu2-72
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Amazonia, Mo. USA
Posts: 2,821
There you go Edmond. Could not have helped any more myself. I should have the Max about broke in by the time you get here. Good luck buddy.
__________________
72 3/4 4x4 350 4spd
72 3/4 4x4 350 auto
2004 Duramax Silverado 4x4
2006 Duramax Crew cab 4x4
2010 Harley Ultra Limited
2011 Harley Street Glide
nu2-72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2004, 04:28 AM   #11
Edmond
Registered User
 
Edmond's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,063
The Axle is not a Dana by the way, but an Eaton. (HO52)

Kevin, hope to see you in august my friend. Can't wait to see the shop you've built.

Cya,
Edmond
__________________
1971 Chevy C/20 Longhorn, 350/TH400, Edelbrock Performer, IMPCO 425 LPG Carb
1974 Chevy Camaro Z28 (Original)

-------------------------

The Netherlands
Edmond is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com