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12-06-2004, 12:20 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 215
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Wiper motor R&R is it as big a pain as I'm fearing it is ?
My wipers have one speed no matter where I turn the knob... GLACIAL , I mean slow would be a compliment to these things. With winter coming I want to fix this ASAP.
I haven't snagged a shop manual yet and was wondering if some kind soul could give me the broad strokes of removing this thing ? Thanks, Brian
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71 K20 350/350/205, dealer air, 4" lift, Flowtech,Edel 1406 on 2101, procomp HEI,4.10's, 33x12.50x16.5 BFG MT's on slots. 4 wheel disc brakes. My lame K20 page My lame Eaton disc brake page |
12-06-2004, 12:22 PM | #2 |
Finish the'71..or bust!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nashville, TN.
Posts: 441
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What year truck?
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12-06-2004, 12:39 PM | #3 |
Finish the'71..or bust!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nashville, TN.
Posts: 441
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From my 71 Chassis Service Manual:
1) Disconnect battery ground cable. 2) Remove wiper arms and blades from wiper transmission shaft. 3) Remove plenum chamber grille. 4) Disconnect wiper drive rods from crank arm; remove crank arm nut and arm from motor shaft. 5) Working under instrument console, disconnect wiper motor and washer wiring connectors. NOTE: If vehicle is equipped with a parking brake assembly located on the vertical surface of the cowl front panel (directly below the wiper motor) remove the parking brake assembly attaching bolts (4) to allow shifting of the assembly rearwards in order to provide access for removal and installation of the wiper motor assembly. Disconnect and remove left-hand defrost hose. 6) Disconnect washer hoses from washer pump. 7) Remove motor attaching screws and motor from cowl mounting position. 9) To install, reverse removal procedures. NOTE: Make certain the wiper motor and blades are in the 'Park' position. 10) Wipe bloody knuckles on pants leg, pop top on favorite beer, and be glad you got it done without knocking a knot on your head while scrunched up under metal dash assembly. |
12-06-2004, 12:43 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 3,071
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Wow...there you go the Board comes through again!!! Great job SLS!!!
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Alex 1971 Lil' Red 350 SBC 700R4 |
12-06-2004, 01:07 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Knoxville Tenn.
Posts: 3,058
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Also check your wiper arm transmissions while you have them loose. They could be about froze up causing wiper to move slow. (Hope you don't have AC-if so GOOD LUCK and have plenty of "suds" on hand.)
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56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer |
12-06-2004, 01:17 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 215
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SLS you are the man thank you !!!! I LOVE this board
About A/C... I have dealer installed air is that bad, I'm hoping as it hangs under the dash mostly on the passenger side that it isn't bad, hate to unhook it as it actually works ! Thank you all so very much, Brian
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71 K20 350/350/205, dealer air, 4" lift, Flowtech,Edel 1406 on 2101, procomp HEI,4.10's, 33x12.50x16.5 BFG MT's on slots. 4 wheel disc brakes. My lame K20 page My lame Eaton disc brake page |
12-06-2004, 02:23 PM | #7 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Knoxville Tenn.
Posts: 3,058
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Quote:
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56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer |
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12-07-2004, 08:13 PM | #8 | |
Still drivin' a Rat Rod
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Monett Missouri
Posts: 4,925
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Quote:
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Rusty Member #13872 Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the *a$#* 71 GMC LWB 49 Chevy 85 Chevy G20 Check out my website |
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12-06-2004, 01:22 PM | #9 | |
Still drivin' a Rat Rod
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Monett Missouri
Posts: 4,925
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Quote:
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Rusty Member #13872 Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the *a$#* 71 GMC LWB 49 Chevy 85 Chevy G20 Check out my website |
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12-06-2004, 02:54 PM | #10 |
Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,264
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A/c just means you have to unhook some more ducts. It's not that bad of a job. It's a lot easier if you remove the heater controls, and even better if you have the instrument cluster out. Crawl behind the dash and assess the situation. There are 3 hex head screws that hold the drive assembly to the mouning plate. Just be careful with them, they break easily! I replace mine with flat socket head cap screws after I broke one.
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Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. |
12-06-2004, 03:11 PM | #11 |
Finish the'71..or bust!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nashville, TN.
Posts: 441
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Glad to be of service.
I needed to look at how it's done as I need to pull mine too. The wipers work great....but the washer don't put out any juice. When I got the bucket o' bolts the tubing ran to nowhere so I got a tank and bracket, hooked up the tube, filled it up with fluid...and when you push the button a few times nothing happens....EXCEPT the washer pump gets hotter than 3 HELLS! It has AC (or whats left of it) too, but at least the AC ducts shouldn't be too much of a problem...as they are dry-rotted to nothing but the slinkys.............dangling down to the floor pans (or what's left of them)...LOL. Oh well, it's just one of 1,678 other things I have to fix..... Last edited by SLS; 12-06-2004 at 03:15 PM. |
12-06-2004, 08:12 PM | #12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Misissippi
Posts: 7
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I must say it is a pain in the neck literally(mine is still hurting). Just replaced my wiper motor and i am guessing there must be an easier way than i [ upsidedown from under the dash] the whole time i was thinking about going through the cluster but didnt the job is done and working fine. Got a life time warranty with my motor but if they last as long as i assume was the original the it will outlast the part store i got it from.
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1971 C10 |
12-07-2004, 12:38 AM | #13 |
Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,264
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With the cluster and heater control out I didn't even have to lay down on the floor. Forgot to mention my column is out, too. Was able to do it either sitting on the seat or standing on the garage floor.
SLS - You don't have to pull the motor to replace the washer pump. There are two screws that hold it in place, use a 1/4" socket. The pump will fall off in your hands. I bought a rebuild kit for mine, found out it didn't have a diaphragm in the kit. Bought a new pump instead.
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Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. |
12-07-2004, 12:47 AM | #14 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Turlock, Ca
Posts: 578
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Mine is slow as well..........what am I looking at for a new motor ?
Bret
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71 Custom 20 Deluxe..soon to be SWB 1/2 ton 1 incredible wife 2 great kids |
12-07-2004, 05:14 PM | #15 |
"Trucks with Class"
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: OLYMPIA, WA, USA
Posts: 8,158
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definately lower the column and remove the dash cluster...then you can see and reach everything much easier.
Consider a small electric WS wiper squirter mounted out by your bottle...auto parts item. Easy to get at if you have to change it in the future and it only squirts as much as you want, not 12 full pumps like the original. |
12-07-2004, 08:18 PM | #16 |
Designated A-hole!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: South Mississippi
Posts: 36,448
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Take pictures and put a thread in FAQ while you're at it!
Have fun.
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
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