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01-02-2005, 04:04 PM | #1 |
71 DELUX
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Northern CA / Sac
Posts: 1,055
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fuel line question (pump to carb) braided?
When replacing the fuel pump (or just wroking in this area) have most of you kept the original rigid/bent (aluminum?) line, or replaced it? If replaced, did you replace it with the same thing or upgrade? If upgraded, to what? Braided line? If braided line, does the braided webbing serve to keep the line from bending out of shape and kinking?
Any pics of what ya'all have done are appreciated too!
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5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000 |
01-02-2005, 04:09 PM | #2 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: ** THE FALL GUY **CHICAGO IL
Posts: 5,883
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go to the auto parts store and buy stright line and rebend it from the fuel pump and atleast take it to the front of the carb. if not all the way to it...
i would not want mine ....vibrating all over....for fear of it rubbing a hole into it.... mark |
01-02-2005, 04:31 PM | #3 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Original line was steel.
If mine gets damaged, I do like Mark said and buy another 3 foot length of steel 3/8" line and bend it like the factory one was.
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01-02-2005, 04:54 PM | #4 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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The steel braided lines are a fine replacement, but then you need to tie it up and secure it or it will rub a hole in what ever it rubs on...that stuff will rub right through the valve covers.
There is nothing wrong with bending up steel lines, many ppl (myself included) would rather have bent hard line instead of braided lines. |
01-02-2005, 08:21 PM | #5 |
71 DELUX
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Northern CA / Sac
Posts: 1,055
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Well...
Check this out... Went to Auto Zone, bought a piece of line, but it had a extended "flange" at the end and would not fit into my fuel pump. I could have cut it, but do not know how to properly "flange" the end(s).
Took that back, went to Pep Boys...they sell the same piece! Guy at the parts counter sent me to the "mechanic" area to ask them about a more correct piece of tubing. Went there, the mechanic told me to see the parts counter and ask them. GEE WHIZ!!! Left there and went to Kragen. At least there I found an adapter that allowed me to get things back together, temporarily. So, where to for a piece of fuel line? Napa? THANKS!
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5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000 |
01-02-2005, 09:18 PM | #6 |
Got big-block?
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 2,453
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I've always just used rubber fuel line from the pump to the carb...never had a problem.
SC
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'68 CST SWB factory 396/T400 buddy buckets, a/c, ps, pb '72 Corvette convertible 454/4spd/ac, ps, pb '73 GMC Sierra Grande short wide 454/T400 ps, pb, ac '77 K5 Blazer black on red, 350/T350/NP205 ps, pb, ac all original '78 GMC Sierra Classic short wide 454/T400 ps, pb, ac '72 GMC Sprint SP454. 1 of 38 built. '73 GMC Sprint SP454. 1 of 71 built. '75 GMC Sprint SP454. 1 of 25 built. SOLD! '72 GMC K25 4x4 468/4L80e/NP205 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...23#post4324423 SOLD!'55 Chevy gasser 496/4spd build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...96#post4324396 |
01-02-2005, 09:22 PM | #7 | |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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Quote:
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01-03-2005, 12:19 AM | #8 |
71 DELUX
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Northern CA / Sac
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Was reading today about these lines... that they should be as straight as possible with gentle curves, not sharp bends. My existing line has two 90 degree bends at the top, then an S bend down at the carb. This what everyone else's looks like? Seems to me the exiting line could be better, which is why I'm asking all the questions. Thanks.
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5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000 |
01-03-2005, 12:28 AM | #9 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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When they say "not sharp bends" they mean not so sharp that it kinks. A kink will restrict flow.
For practical purposes, the bowl of the carburetor is large enough to supply most streetable engines at WOT for as long as you need on the street anyway. Then, when you get off the gas, the bowl refills. That's worse case scenario, like if your line is restrictive or fuel pump or filter is weak. When the engine starves for fuel is when it's run hard enough, long enough to empty the reserve in the carb. Lots of cars on the road nowdays have bent twisted kinked fuel lines going to the carb from knuckleheaded mechanics boogering up a filter change job. The drivers never know it because the line still supplies as much fuel as they ever need. The 454 in my old green truck ran through the original 5/16 fuel line along the frame that the 6 cylinder had stock. It never starved for fuel.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
01-03-2005, 11:27 AM | #10 |
71 DELUX
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Northern CA / Sac
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Thanks TX,
Well I've had these fuel supply woes for some time now, having tweaked, checked, replaced and improved many little things off and on for the last year, yet I still had some stalling New Year's day, which left me sorta stranded, until it eventually re-fired (then stalled again), then re-fired and I BOOGIED home. With help from this board we determined it probably was not vapor lock, went the route of the gas cap, checked filters and lines, emissions equipment, etc... So I figured it was time to replace the fuel filter. An interesting thing about my stalling is that after the truck sets for 3-5 minutes, it has typically started right up. Yet, checking it out when "dead" it never smelled like fuel or that it was flooding, it actually did not smell like fuel at all, and the carb seemed very dry. So, would gravity or fuel pressure after setting put enough fuel into the carb to enable the engine to fire up again? Since this all started, it has always seemed as if the carb was not getting much fuel. I took it for a quick test drive and it felt better (seemed to have better response to the throttle) but I need to drive it for about 20-30 minutes before I feel comfortable that it is fixed. I'll eventually figure out exactly how I want this fuel line situated too.
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5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000 |
01-03-2005, 12:29 PM | #11 |
Got big-block?
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 2,453
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"yet", that's right, no probs in 25 years of building cars/trucks.
Just use common sense when routing the rubber fuel line. SC
__________________
'68 CST SWB factory 396/T400 buddy buckets, a/c, ps, pb '72 Corvette convertible 454/4spd/ac, ps, pb '73 GMC Sierra Grande short wide 454/T400 ps, pb, ac '77 K5 Blazer black on red, 350/T350/NP205 ps, pb, ac all original '78 GMC Sierra Classic short wide 454/T400 ps, pb, ac '72 GMC Sprint SP454. 1 of 38 built. '73 GMC Sprint SP454. 1 of 71 built. '75 GMC Sprint SP454. 1 of 25 built. SOLD! '72 GMC K25 4x4 468/4L80e/NP205 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...23#post4324423 SOLD!'55 Chevy gasser 496/4spd build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...96#post4324396 |
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