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Old 01-03-2005, 03:04 AM   #1
passthebuck
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Question jimmy rear window problems

I'm a 67-72 guy BUT my buddy has an 87 jimmy. I'm tryin hard to get him to join this board but he's too "busy". His rear window wont roll down. You press the switch to UP & you can hear it try to go up, but it obviously cant go any further (its up all the way all ready) BUT it will not make a sound when you hit the down button. It's a brand new switch in the dash. Do these motors go bad often? or is it the wiring ir a poor connection? I just thought you guys whould see this type of thing often & mabe have an ez answer. I'm going to help him out when its a bit warmer & get 'er goin. Thanx for your help.

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Old 01-06-2005, 02:25 AM   #2
jays68yak
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i kinda have the same prob, but mine is stuck down. The motor turns only one way, and only if it is unpluged from the window assembly. And the key thingy on the door itself wont work.
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Old 01-06-2005, 03:41 AM   #3
longhorn71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jays68yak
i kinda have the same prob, but mine is stuck down. The motor turns only one way, and only if it is unpluged from the window assembly. And the key thingy on the door itself wont work.
mine does the same thing
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Old 01-06-2005, 03:54 AM   #4
jays68yak
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ok so now we just need to know why....then we can fix it.
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1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds.
1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s
1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig



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Old 01-09-2005, 12:17 PM   #5
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I know this may sound like a minor suggestion, but I found that good grounds are really important for the motor operation. The motor inside the gate has a ground wire, and the switch also is grounded.

And be sure the motor is not just grounded to the gate itself, but to the body. In otherwords, there should be a ground wire that goes past the gate hinges and is securely mounted to the body.

Minor, but also easy to check and improve if necessary. I'd be interested in hearing back ya'll if this helped anyone?
Greg.
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Last edited by Gregsmx; 01-09-2005 at 12:20 PM. Reason: add text
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Old 01-10-2005, 07:49 PM   #6
1976K5CHALET
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Come to think of it i need to build a new rear harness for mine...
Anyways start with the basics...unplug the round connector at the firewall....with a good dvom and a buddy...have said buddy measure volts as the switch is depressed...3 wires...one is ground and the other two are up and down...if you have good vlotage there repeat the test at the rear of your K5...generally under the body near the left tail light is a another round plug with those same three wires...just follow the harness out of tail gate to find the connector...try again..if you still have good volt (12VDC) or better....you will have to open the tailgate to investigate further....on the left latch assm is a deadman switch....blue wire if i remember right...bypass this switch and recheck....and yes i realize it won't go down....so if there happens to be no voltage ava at the rear jumper it via the battery to get it to come down if thats your problem. Next question is whats up with the rear key switch...does it work...

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