1953 Chevy P/U Suspension

[hale1953]

I have a 1953 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup with a '69 small block chevy. I had a street rod shop install a late 70's Mustang II front end. Everything I read states that you need to box in the frame. The rod shop did not box in my frame. After about 6 months, the nose of the pickup had dropped about 3 inches. My first thought was that the Mustang II front end and springs were setup for a 4 cylinder, so I put new V-8 rated springs. That helped, but the front frame had 2 small cracks that the rod shop had to weld. My question is did this guy cut corners by not boxing in the frame? Will I continue to have problems in the future?

I would appreciate any input. I have invested about $4K into this rig, and I want to make sure the work is done right.

[rico_bob]

Yes and Yes!

The Guy should make it right by boxing in the frame. Unless he does not care about his reputation. In my opinion he owes you.
But I have questions about your setup first.

Question, did you buy an aftermarket Mustang II crossmember or use one from a junked Mustang? I have read horror stories about using the junkyard versions vs using a aftermarket kit. Also some kits are designed specificaly for Pickups and others are not. So I guess we need more info on what you have welded under your '53 frame.

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If you think you can you're right. If you think you can't you're still right.

Current project: 1957 Chevy Short Wheel Base Stepside, with '58 GMC Big Window Cab, w/327 camel heads, 350 TH Automatic, tilt wheel, and thinking of doing a IFS.



[This message has been edited by rico_bob (edited 12-29-2001).]

[hale1953]

The cross member was the weld in type from RB's out of Edwmonds, WA for use with Mustang II front ends.

I looked at having someone rebuild the straight axle, but you'd never get a smooth ride no matter how good the rebuild. I'm very happy with the Mustang II. I never thought a lowered rig could ride so smooth.

The Mustang II front end was used. However, I had the front end done for about $1,000, versus using aftermarket parts that would have ran me into $3,000. The good thing about Mustang II is that you can find parts anywhere at a very inexpensive price.

Thanks for the info, I'm going to talk to the street rod guy since he continually does work for me. If I can help you at all, let me know.

[rico_bob]

Hope the shop will make it right for you. Did you say that the frame is cracking? Sure sign that the boxing is very much needed. Remember we are also dealing with a metal frame that has been around for 50 years! It is now 2002! And your truck frame was made in 1952 for the '53 model.

Lots of miles and fatigue come into play here. That is why so many Hot Rodders are now literally "forced into using" those new aftermarket frames and unable to use the 1920's and 30's frames.

Besides think about the "oxidation" that takes place! (Think of it ... all that metal just disappearing into thin air!)

Speaking of thin air, I will stop now! Happy New Year! rico_bob

------------------
If you think you can you're right. If you think you can't you're still right.

Current project: 1957 Chevy Short Wheel Base Stepside, with '58 GMC Big Window Cab, w/327 camel heads, 350 TH Automatic, tilt wheel, and thinking of doing a IFS.