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02-17-2002, 04:51 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Dover, NH USA
Posts: 194
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Best way to remove rivets from frame?
I need to remove 6 rivets from my frame in order to install my new shock relocator kit and a front sway bar on my 67 C10.
I am curious what methods have been used in removing these rivets? I hear drill them out, or use a cutting wheel on a drill, grind them off, not sure which might be the easiest. I am going to try and tackle soon, my power tool collection is shall we say lacking. I have a friend with a portable air compressor, I was thinking maybe buying an air drill. Can anyone suggest the best way to remove these before I start buying any tools. Thanks very much!! |
02-17-2002, 05:07 PM | #2 |
Strongman Garage
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Salinas, CA
Posts: 10,241
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use a 4 1/2 grinder to grind the heads down, and if they dont come out after that drill them out (ALOT easier to drill them out after you grind the heads down)
------------------ My Truck pictures www.xframeimpala.com 68 4x4 short fleetside 327 CH465 edelbrock intake and carb MSD distributor its the "SHAGROLET" 56 big window short stepside 235 dual 1 brls 64ImpalaSS 327 70 C10 LWB fleetside custom/10 350/TH350 IM me on aol SN= SHAGROLET
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Kalle 68 GMC Suburban 1500 4x4 SOLD 69 Pontiac Lemans 99 Silverado 4.8 5 speed ECSB [ Facebook Instagram Subscribe on YOUTUBE |
02-17-2002, 06:40 PM | #3 |
Web Wheeler
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: BC, Canada, eh?
Posts: 388
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You can use a torch if you're good... or grind them down, then assault them with an air hammer. Both ways work good
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'66 C10 longstep - Clifford equiped '84 C20 Suburban 6.2L - awaiting 4x4 conversion '91 V3500 Crewcab - awaiting diesel swap |
02-18-2002, 03:20 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: DAYTONA BEACH U.S.A.
Posts: 39
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best way I've found is to grind them flat then drill them out
------------------ 71lwb C-10 rust-free ac 300crate,2004r,4.10 lowered2/3,some original black/white paint 50%primer DAILY DRIVER 71 2wd blazer leaks EVERYWHERE rusty starts and drives everytime,DAILY DRIVE LOOKING FOR 38-39FORD coupe
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71lwb C-10 rust-free ac 300crate,2004r,4.10 lowered2/3,some original black/white paint 50%primer DAILY DRIVER 71 2wd blazer leaks EVERYWHERE rusty starts and drives everytime,DAILY DRIVE LOOKING FOR 38-39FORD coupe |
02-18-2002, 07:47 PM | #5 |
"Treasure the Ride"
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Mid Michigan, Harrison Michigan, USA
Posts: 682
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Quickest way is to get a sharp metal chisel, a big ball peen hammer, and a pair of heavy leather gloves (you will smack your hand at least once!) And place the chisel right up next to the frame rail at the edge of the rivets. Give it a good sharp rap, and you will be surprised how easy they cut off! You also will need a 1/4 to 3/8 inch drift pin to knock out the rivets. It is clean; plus you won't end up with any grinder marks or whoops! holes from the torch!
BEEN THERE, DONE THIS, AND IT WORKS! ricobob ------------------ If you think you can you're right. If you think you can't you're still right. Current project: 1957 Chevy Short Wheel Base Stepside, with '58 GMC Big Window Cab, w/327 camel heads, 350 TH Automatic, tilt wheel, and thinking of doing a IFS.
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If you think you can you're right. If you think you can't you're still right. Trucks: '56 SWB; '57 SWB; '63 C-10 Current projects: 1963 Long Fleetside for the wife! '56 for the daughter. Visit us at: www.ricos-rods-and-relics.com |
02-19-2002, 07:04 AM | #6 |
BAD BOW-Silverado XST
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Senior Member from Austin, TX
Posts: 6,431
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I agree with rico_bob. I used the same method on my truck when I lowered it. One good whack and the rivet heads come right off!!! Easier than the other methods mentioned.
------------------ Gerardo 1983 Custom Truck TX Plates: "BAD BOW" http://www.geocities.com/abetterchemist/ |
02-19-2002, 11:40 AM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 283
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the same concept works for when you lose the wheel locks on your car (minus the drift pin (punch) step)
i agree with the previous two posters, knock the head off the rivet and then punch out the rivet ------------------ Webmaster: www.GMPerformance.org
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02-19-2002, 12:02 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Dover, NH USA
Posts: 194
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I want to thank everyone for the ideas.
I am going to buy the chisel and punch tonight. If that fails, will buy the grinder this weekend. Really appreciate the info! |
02-21-2002, 04:36 PM | #9 |
GMC SHORT FLEET F/S
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: SOUTH WILLIAMSPORT PENNSYLVANNIA
Posts: 2,117
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have fun grinding
------------------ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ imaindianoutlaw@yahoo.com REFRIGERATION TECH FOR SALE 1963 Pontiac Tempest 1965 Pontiac GTO 1956 Pontiac 2 dr Charles W. Hein S.Williamsport PA
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CHARLES WADE HEIN HVACR FOREMAN. LEWISBURG U.S.P. |
02-22-2002, 03:20 PM | #10 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Warren, OR , USA
Posts: 166
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hope I'm not to late with this, but for what it's worth...spent a couple hours under my truck last night removing the stock upper shock brackets and if you find as little room under there as I did laying on your back trying to swing a hammer/chisel or run a grinder then I think you'll find the easiest method to removed the rivets is to center punch them and work your way up with drill bits until you can punch out the rivet shank. It worked for me anyway.
------------------ 72 swb cheyenne super 350/350 69 cst20 BB longhorn
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72 swb cheyenne super 350/350 69 cst20 BB longhorn Warren, OR |
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