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Old 02-23-2005, 12:12 AM   #1
skokie
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Motor mount torque

How much do you torque motor mounts to on a 350?
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Old 02-23-2005, 12:20 AM   #2
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Tight. no TQ figures.
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Old 02-23-2005, 12:26 AM   #3
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Every bolt, nut and screw on a vehicle has an installation torque value. If I can find my assambly/service manual I will post the value.
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Old 02-23-2005, 12:58 AM   #4
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place socket on impact fun place socket over bolt and pull the trigger till it stops turning then they are tight enough
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Old 02-23-2005, 06:32 AM   #5
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While aesj2 is technicly right, there is a torque reading for every bolt...you'd be wasting your time.
Drive it on with an impact.
If you have no air tools, then tighten it down with your 1/2 inch drive ratchet. Put some ass on it, but no need to pull hard enough to get a hernia or break anything.
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Old 02-24-2005, 02:32 AM   #6
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Just to think of all the time and money G.M. has wasted on engineering and equipment to install bolts. All they had to do was buy a big impact wrench.
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Old 02-24-2005, 02:42 AM   #7
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Not sure what the torque is but you could go with GErman torgue which is Goodentight Just make sure you dont use russian torque which is Brokenoff

lol
hope I ooffended no one with this
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Old 02-24-2005, 02:57 AM   #8
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I always got a kick out of "quarter of a turn before it breaks off." Actually if you get in the habit of torquing everything 2 things will happen.

1: You will not break a bolt off.

2: Stuff will not fall apart.

Here is a link to a torque table that you can use.
Torque table
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Old 02-24-2005, 02:59 AM   #9
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, good one Dean.
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Old 02-24-2005, 03:34 AM   #10
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50 - 65 ft lbs is what my book says for my 80's engine mounts. I put them at 60 ft lbs
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Old 02-24-2005, 04:31 AM   #11
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If we want to get completely technical, we'll need to look at the bolts and determine if they are stretched and or fatigued. Then, you can clean the threads and chase them with the proper tools, and only then can we install the bolt. This of course after inspecting the washers and replacing any lock washer that may have been installed 35 years ago and left out at some point by some shade tree mechanic with an impact.

Lets look at the torque reading given for the later style motor mount.
When you installed the old used bolt, in the dirty hole with no light weight oil...there is no telling if the bolt is actually torqued down properly. Regardless what the torque wrench says, it is not giving an acurate reading of the bolt's clamping ability at that given reading.
The dirt will cause resistance....higher reading
The lack of a light weight oil...will cause a higher reading
The rust on the bolt....higher reading
The fatigued bolt will give an inacurate reading (not sure which way)

So if we are going to be technical...let's get it right.





Grab an impact or a 1/2 inch ratchet, and tighten it up. If it makes you feel better, put some lock tight on the threads.



I always say, torque it down untill it spins freely, then back off 1/4 turn.
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Old 02-24-2005, 04:42 AM   #12
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Who needs bolt, WELD IT ON.
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Old 02-24-2005, 04:45 AM   #13
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nahh welding wouldnt work so good being that the block is cast iron and the mounts are steel. impact gun would still work much better
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Old 02-24-2005, 05:53 AM   #14
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JB Weld? Glue? Bubble gum........
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Old 02-24-2005, 03:17 AM   #15
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So whats the tourque value for my muffler bearing output shaft.........if I use 90wt. on the first half of the threads, and DextronIII on the second half, and fully synthetic on the third half?
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Old 02-24-2005, 10:00 AM   #16
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I like the bubble gum idea

I do believe that your torque would be stronger with fatigue, as the bolt will be stretched out past the threshold, causing it to coagulate and not go back to it's original shape... This means that the bolt wouldn't stretch out anymore any time soon, making the torque you put on be more than it would have been before
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Old 02-24-2005, 09:24 PM   #17
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Ahhh nothing tighter than a good crossthread anyways
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Old 02-24-2005, 11:15 PM   #18
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Lofl!!!!
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Old 02-24-2005, 11:21 PM   #19
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If you're talking about the bolts going into the block, standard torque for a 3/8, grade five bolt is 30-35 lbs, grade 8 is 45-50.
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Old 02-25-2005, 01:00 AM   #20
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you guys forgot the obvious, duct tape and bailing wire. those two things used seperatly or together will solve any problem
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Old 02-25-2005, 01:22 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68w/sbc406
you guys forgot the obvious, duct tape and bailing wire. those two things used seperatly or together will solve any problem

You forgot pliers HAHAHHA
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Old 02-25-2005, 08:54 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skokie
You forgot pliers HAHAHHA
We have a board member here who's name is Mr Goodpliers.

I get a laugh every time I see his name in a post.
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Old 02-25-2005, 10:13 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skokie
You forgot pliers HAHAHHA
well cause that is the tool that you use to take the bolts out with so you can twist up the bailing wire, i was just talkin about the materials to fix it
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Old 02-25-2005, 10:46 AM   #24
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Thumbs down

Run a logging chain across the motor left to right drill holes in the crossmember and bolt it down. But then again what would be the torque specs on those bolts ??????
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Old 02-25-2005, 01:29 AM   #25
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Is that like a lot of these threads being cross posted or Versa -Vicesa?
I couldn't get a torque wrench into my 67 mount bolts anyway

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