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Old 03-13-2005, 10:05 PM   #1
71meangreenc10
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Drum to Disk Conversion

Wondering if anyone has changed there front from drums to disks. What all needs to be changed. IE A ARMS, Spindles ect...please be specific...

Thanks

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Old 03-13-2005, 11:00 PM   #2
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I am not a pro here and other can give you good/detailed advice but you can easily use the search tool on this site. Also you can check FAQ section. There is lots of info about this subject and lots of people have done it. I, myself bought a kit for it but haven't done it yet. Buying a kit gives you all the parts you need, new ones ofcourse but cost a lot. I got it since I got very good deal on it. good luck.
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Old 03-13-2005, 11:11 PM   #3
71meangreenc10
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The search is down,,, Thanks

Smitty
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70 C10 Suburban Former military GSA truck.
72 Chevy Blazer 4X4, Sloppy Jo, Mountain Climber. Wife says no more trucks. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=707378
72 GMC 1 Ton Motor Home, wife said no more trucks until she saw this one. Gen 3 6.0/4L80E 4.10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=761110
68 GMC Suburban was 3/4 ton, now 1/2.Wife shook her head
71 C30 Wrecker
71 C20 Scott-Bilt As weird as it gets..BB Cheyenne AC Truck
68 GMC Long Stepside. They keep following me home
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Old 03-14-2005, 02:16 PM   #4
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Looking for same info, have drums all the way around.

I could be totallly wrong, but I think someone sells conversion kits for the front and the back can be done using a donor vehicle found at a salvage yard or elsewhere. I don't know about running the new brake lines or if that is even necessary.

I've love to find this information. Did you look at the FAQ section of the forum yet? I found a few articles I needed by clicking on each page and using the "Find" feature in Internet Explorer to find words on the page (example: brakes)
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Old 03-14-2005, 02:21 PM   #5
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I know that the "easy" way seems to be by finding a good donor truck from 73 and up (i think) grabbing the whole front suspension clip and bolting it on. Apparently all you need to do is drill 3 or 4 holes and it bolts right up. Of course you will need the booster/reservoir as well.

Again, I haven't done this, but from what I have heard it works very well. Maybe send 67cst a PM, I know this is what he did, he may have more information.
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Old 03-14-2005, 04:34 PM   #6
arkracing
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73+ Entire front crossmember will bolt in - you may have to drill a couple of holes (or you can just "forget about them" - the front end won't fall out)

you can use 73+ upper and lower control arms with 73+ Spindles/rotors/calipers, etc and bolt them into your truck, but you have to change the steering linkage to that out of the 73+ truck also - bigger tie rod ends....they also sell an "adapting adjuster sleeve" that will screw onto your stock inner tie rods and accept the disc spindle outer tie rod ends.

or you can put 71+ ball joints in your current arms and put 71+ spindles and stuff in it - of course you have to do the steering think as well.


CPP and Early Classic sell disc spindles that will bolt on your stock drum arms/ball joints...but i still think you have to use different tierods

easiest is to just get a donor 73+ truck and take the whole front end

my truck has:
'69 stock crossmember
'89 Burb A-Arms
'71+ ball joints
'73+ HD (1+1/4" rotor) Spindles
'73+ P.Steering Box with/ '73+ Steering components
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Old 03-14-2005, 04:43 PM   #7
Fred T
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkracing
CPP and Early Classic sell disc spindles that will bolt on your stock drum arms/ball joints...but i still think you have to use different tierods
Nope. You use the original tie rods with the CPP kits. Their swap is easy, but it ain't cheap. It's also a good time to replace all the wear parts in the front end, If you haven't already. Ball joints, tie rod ends. control arm shafts, springs and shocks. It will make a world of difference in handling.

I hate having to go back and redo something later.
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Old 03-14-2005, 07:32 PM   #8
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Why go to disks at all drums have good stoping power. My 68 has drums and when it was new I carried a 2550 Lb camper for many years and had no stoping problens.
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Old 03-14-2005, 10:03 PM   #9
Tx Firefighter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodchip
Why go to disks at all drums have good stoping power. My 68 has drums and when it was new I carried a 2550 Lb camper for many years and had no stoping problens.
Long hills and heavy loads, discs are head and shoulders better. Plus, discs never need adjusting. There's a reason cars and trucks don't have drum front brakes anymore.
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Old 03-14-2005, 08:48 PM   #10
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will the 73 up m/c and booster work?
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Old 03-15-2005, 06:29 PM   #11
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bump
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Old 03-15-2005, 08:49 PM   #12
Billy G
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Im in the process of changing to disc now. Following the advice of members here, I bought the whole front Xmember...76 p/u....salvage yard just cut the frame off the truck...just as it starts to straighten out under the cab. This left proportioning valve, brake lines, rotors, calipers, spindles, tie-rods, and center link. Truck was manual steering so no pitman arm. I've disassembled the whole thing...with hopes of sandblasting the arms, ect and painting while apart. Now I think that if the present control arms will take grease well... to just clean and paint the A-arms and springs...swap the spindles with 76 ball joints...and use the 76 centerlink and tierods. I'll use the current pitman arm...if it'll work. If not...I'll find a power steering gearbox. I bought a power steering setup from Frank in Washington shortly after I got the truck. It's still in the box he shipped it in....hahah....
The 'delimma' Im in now is whether to go with 6-lug rotors from one of the vendors here, or change to 5-lug axles in the rear. For now, I'll just carry TWO spares...seems to be the LESSER of all evils right now.
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