pics of step by step custom flushmount tails - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

>X< · 03-26-2005, 01:20 AM

this is kinda streetrod stuff, but can be applied to anything with a rollpan. i used a light kit that comes with a certain metal piece with a cutout, lense, and a back bucket thing. you take the metal and shape it to the piece that you want lights in, then weld bolts to the back for the bucket, then weld it in. had the camera so i thought i would post, maybe it will help someone out.

this is on the driver side rear fender of the 51 ute that i am working on. i used a ir cutoff wheel with 3m green corps cutoff discs, ir 301 air grinder with 3 inch 36 grit roloc disc, millermatic 175 with regular wire, 75/25 mix, various body hammers and dolly's, and a stud gun to help move the metal that i couldnt reach from behind. smoothed out with 80 grit on a da and ready for some icing. it took me about 3 hours from start to finish.

>X< · 03-26-2005, 01:22 AM

check and re-check the fit

>X< · 03-26-2005, 01:23 AM

weld screws on back

>X< · 03-26-2005, 01:26 AM

start with cold tacks to make sure it fits. (clecos fasteners can be used, or even magnets, but this was a flat piece so it wasnt that hard)

>X< · 03-26-2005, 01:29 AM

start tacking. you want a gap that is about the size of the wire you are using (.23 in this case) my gap is a little tight, but it worked out ok.

>X< · 03-26-2005, 01:31 AM

tack, be sure to go slllloooowww and keep it cool. dont blow air or use water to cool, that just shocks the metal into the position that it is stretched into.

>X< · 03-26-2005, 05:11 PM

thanks for the tips man. that last thing you said about grinding tacks, i usually do that, it wasnt in the pics though. i find that i can make smaller cooler tacks if i am welding up against a grinded tac as opposed to a un ground tack.

i've been using 3m dry guide coat for everything, but from your description it sounds like the marker would work alot better.

sevt_chevelle · 03-26-2005, 07:28 PM

Sean the 3M dry guide coat works wonders on filler and primer but however it doest work on bare metal. The marker works on bare metal, but keep the dry guide coat for your filler and primer.

03-26-2005, 01:20 AM	#1
>X< registered IWATA user Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 4,481	pics of step by step custom flushmount tails this is kinda streetrod stuff, but can be applied to anything with a rollpan. i used a light kit that comes with a certain metal piece with a cutout, lense, and a back bucket thing. you take the metal and shape it to the piece that you want lights in, then weld bolts to the back for the bucket, then weld it in. had the camera so i thought i would post, maybe it will help someone out. this is on the driver side rear fender of the 51 ute that i am working on. i used a ir cutoff wheel with 3m green corps cutoff discs, ir 301 air grinder with 3 inch 36 grit roloc disc, millermatic 175 with regular wire, 75/25 mix, various body hammers and dolly's, and a stud gun to help move the metal that i couldnt reach from behind. smoothed out with 80 grit on a da and ready for some icing. it took me about 3 hours from start to finish. Attached Images __________________ -'63 Ford Fairlane 500 coupe, v8, auto, faded and rusty. awaiting built roller 302 and some flat black -'99 Honda Prelude. vtech/5spd. no pipe, no intake, bone stock. awaiting new top end. -01 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3 dented and scratched with a noisy tranny. Take off that Von Dutch hat before i stab you with a 000 Mack.

03-26-2005, 01:22 AM	#2
>X< registered IWATA user Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 4,481	check and re-check the fit Attached Images __________________ -'63 Ford Fairlane 500 coupe, v8, auto, faded and rusty. awaiting built roller 302 and some flat black -'99 Honda Prelude. vtech/5spd. no pipe, no intake, bone stock. awaiting new top end. -01 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3 dented and scratched with a noisy tranny. Take off that Von Dutch hat before i stab you with a 000 Mack.

03-26-2005, 01:23 AM	#3
>X< registered IWATA user Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 4,481	weld screws on back Attached Images __________________ -'63 Ford Fairlane 500 coupe, v8, auto, faded and rusty. awaiting built roller 302 and some flat black -'99 Honda Prelude. vtech/5spd. no pipe, no intake, bone stock. awaiting new top end. -01 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3 dented and scratched with a noisy tranny. Take off that Von Dutch hat before i stab you with a 000 Mack.

03-26-2005, 01:26 AM	#4
>X< registered IWATA user Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 4,481	start with cold tacks to make sure it fits. (clecos fasteners can be used, or even magnets, but this was a flat piece so it wasnt that hard) Attached Images __________________ -'63 Ford Fairlane 500 coupe, v8, auto, faded and rusty. awaiting built roller 302 and some flat black -'99 Honda Prelude. vtech/5spd. no pipe, no intake, bone stock. awaiting new top end. -01 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3 dented and scratched with a noisy tranny. Take off that Von Dutch hat before i stab you with a 000 Mack.

03-26-2005, 01:29 AM	#5
>X< registered IWATA user Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 4,481	start tacking. you want a gap that is about the size of the wire you are using (.23 in this case) my gap is a little tight, but it worked out ok. __________________ -'63 Ford Fairlane 500 coupe, v8, auto, faded and rusty. awaiting built roller 302 and some flat black -'99 Honda Prelude. vtech/5spd. no pipe, no intake, bone stock. awaiting new top end. -01 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3 dented and scratched with a noisy tranny. Take off that Von Dutch hat before i stab you with a 000 Mack.

03-26-2005, 01:31 AM	#6
>X< registered IWATA user Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 4,481	tack, be sure to go slllloooowww and keep it cool. dont blow air or use water to cool, that just shocks the metal into the position that it is stretched into. Attached Images __________________ -'63 Ford Fairlane 500 coupe, v8, auto, faded and rusty. awaiting built roller 302 and some flat black -'99 Honda Prelude. vtech/5spd. no pipe, no intake, bone stock. awaiting new top end. -01 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3 dented and scratched with a noisy tranny. Take off that Von Dutch hat before i stab you with a 000 Mack.

03-26-2005, 05:11 PM	#7
>X< registered IWATA user Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 4,481	thanks for the tips man. that last thing you said about grinding tacks, i usually do that, it wasnt in the pics though. i find that i can make smaller cooler tacks if i am welding up against a grinded tac as opposed to a un ground tack. i've been using 3m dry guide coat for everything, but from your description it sounds like the marker would work alot better. __________________ -'63 Ford Fairlane 500 coupe, v8, auto, faded and rusty. awaiting built roller 302 and some flat black -'99 Honda Prelude. vtech/5spd. no pipe, no intake, bone stock. awaiting new top end. -01 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3 dented and scratched with a noisy tranny. Take off that Von Dutch hat before i stab you with a 000 Mack.

03-26-2005, 07:28 PM	#8
sevt_chevelle Lost amongst the CORN Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Northern Iowa Posts: 1,071	Sean the 3M dry guide coat works wonders on filler and primer but however it doest work on bare metal. The marker works on bare metal, but keep the dry guide coat for your filler and primer. __________________ Currently working on How To Videos and custom metal 70 Chevelle gettin Sliced and Diced Anything But STOCK 70 Chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY 49 and 72 Chevy Trucks restored to original...close to it Drommer Stor....Norwegian for Dream Big http://s969.photobucket.com/albums/a...lle/?start=all https://www.flickr.com/photos/47922830@N03/ Pictures of my work and projects

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