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#1 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northeast--Bethlehem, Pennslyvania
Posts: 642
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Getting out all the Bushings
I have a Blazer chassie. I took my front and rear off the frame.
I want to replace ALL the bushings.I got two off so far...they were a sunz of bi##h to remove.Burned,hammered,chiseled them off. Theirs got to be an easery way.please tell me their is.....I really want to replace them but if not they all look good to me,guess they stay on. Thanks John
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Big Blue ( John ) 79 Chevy Pick up.....My Dailey STILL Working on a frame up: 1987 Truck body on a 78 Blazer frame. Need cab blasted to start project. Got the cab BLASTED, Now Prep and Paint. Started to lay SOME BONDO and primer. Done, Ordering paint. Got paint, Stuff painted,Cab,Fenders, Hood more later. 9/7/2015 Got the clear coat on,now time to take one off. Started to put things back (What a nightmare) like the heating and AC stuff,inside wire harness, outside AC unit and booster, still more. May 2016, still working on the inside. Got duck work in,heating and AC. Radio (stock) in dash with after market in console later, Speaker are hooked up, Steering column is in. Getting ready to drop the cab onto the frame, Working on engine now since I have the room. Well here it is 2018, got the engine in and it runs, now I need to get the exhaust system in so I can adjust the lifters, to loud right now. Got the exhaust on now I am waiting for the break parts to come in. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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Are they like the suspension bushings? Or are you talking body bushings? If suspension, you can get the part to a press, that's the easiest. The second best way I've found is to drill holes through the rubber bushing part until you can easily smack the center metal bushing out. Then you can usually work and pop the rest of the rubber out with a couple screwdrivers. If you can put a slight bend on the tip of a screwdriver without breaking it, helps also. As for the rubber that sometimes gets left behind and is stuck to the sleeve you can get small flap wheels that fit Dotco's (small straight or 90 degree air tools, drills are too slow) that make quick work of that.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#3 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northeast--Bethlehem, Pennslyvania
Posts: 642
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Thanks 68LSS1,
These are the suspension ones,getting the part to a press would mean taking the whole front and rear suspensions to a shop,, whow, where do i take this too? Drilling holes through the rubber bushings seams like my option. Are they just as hard to put back in? Thanks again,,John
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Big Blue ( John ) 79 Chevy Pick up.....My Dailey STILL Working on a frame up: 1987 Truck body on a 78 Blazer frame. Need cab blasted to start project. Got the cab BLASTED, Now Prep and Paint. Started to lay SOME BONDO and primer. Done, Ordering paint. Got paint, Stuff painted,Cab,Fenders, Hood more later. 9/7/2015 Got the clear coat on,now time to take one off. Started to put things back (What a nightmare) like the heating and AC stuff,inside wire harness, outside AC unit and booster, still more. May 2016, still working on the inside. Got duck work in,heating and AC. Radio (stock) in dash with after market in console later, Speaker are hooked up, Steering column is in. Getting ready to drop the cab onto the frame, Working on engine now since I have the room. Well here it is 2018, got the engine in and it runs, now I need to get the exhaust system in so I can adjust the lifters, to loud right now. Got the exhaust on now I am waiting for the break parts to come in. |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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Are you putting poly or rubber back in? I usually go back in with poly so that's what I'm more familiar with. The biggest thing here is to ensure all the rubber is out of the sleeve. Get a big c-clamp with a couple pieces of scrap sheet metal and they usually go back in relatively easy. Most of the time with poly you use the existing outer sleeve so that makes it easier as the only way to get the outer sleeves out is press them (not all places have/use the outer sleeve).
__________________
'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#5 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northeast--Bethlehem, Pennslyvania
Posts: 642
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Thanks 68LSS1,
Going back in with poly ones. You said " Get a big c-clamp with a couple pieces of scrap sheet metal and they usually go back in relatively easy" could you explain what you mean here. Thanks for responding, John
__________________
Big Blue ( John ) 79 Chevy Pick up.....My Dailey STILL Working on a frame up: 1987 Truck body on a 78 Blazer frame. Need cab blasted to start project. Got the cab BLASTED, Now Prep and Paint. Started to lay SOME BONDO and primer. Done, Ordering paint. Got paint, Stuff painted,Cab,Fenders, Hood more later. 9/7/2015 Got the clear coat on,now time to take one off. Started to put things back (What a nightmare) like the heating and AC stuff,inside wire harness, outside AC unit and booster, still more. May 2016, still working on the inside. Got duck work in,heating and AC. Radio (stock) in dash with after market in console later, Speaker are hooked up, Steering column is in. Getting ready to drop the cab onto the frame, Working on engine now since I have the room. Well here it is 2018, got the engine in and it runs, now I need to get the exhaust system in so I can adjust the lifters, to loud right now. Got the exhaust on now I am waiting for the break parts to come in. |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 44
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The C clamp and scrap metal is what I've used also and I have also used dry ice to chill the bushing that way the rubber drills out with out the drill bit geting stuck. Good luck
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73 Crew Cab Dually 454 I don't need no stinking garage! ![]() |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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Get a heavy duty 8" or so c-clamp. Push the bushing in far as it will go by hand then put a scrap piece of metal over the bushing and a scrap piece over the "hole" on the other side. Put the c-clamp over the metal which sandwiches the bushings and squeeze the bushing into place. You will only be able to insert the bushing as far as the bottom plate at which point the bushing will bottom out but that's usually good enough. There may be a 1/8' or so protruding out between the head side and the sleeve. If the particular piece takes the ring bushing that goes on the outside around the sleeve then you can install that and use the c-clamp again to fully seat the bushing.
__________________
'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#8 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northeast--Bethlehem, Pennslyvania
Posts: 642
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Ok 68LSS1,Got ya now. Hay thanks for the replys. I thought their would be more options on this . Guess not to many do these replacements.
Thanks John
__________________
Big Blue ( John ) 79 Chevy Pick up.....My Dailey STILL Working on a frame up: 1987 Truck body on a 78 Blazer frame. Need cab blasted to start project. Got the cab BLASTED, Now Prep and Paint. Started to lay SOME BONDO and primer. Done, Ordering paint. Got paint, Stuff painted,Cab,Fenders, Hood more later. 9/7/2015 Got the clear coat on,now time to take one off. Started to put things back (What a nightmare) like the heating and AC stuff,inside wire harness, outside AC unit and booster, still more. May 2016, still working on the inside. Got duck work in,heating and AC. Radio (stock) in dash with after market in console later, Speaker are hooked up, Steering column is in. Getting ready to drop the cab onto the frame, Working on engine now since I have the room. Well here it is 2018, got the engine in and it runs, now I need to get the exhaust system in so I can adjust the lifters, to loud right now. Got the exhaust on now I am waiting for the break parts to come in. |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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I've tried everything I could think of in the past; burning, air hammer, rivet gun, etc. This is what worked for me as far as being the quickest. I swear if I ever do it again I'm going to get a cheap port-a-power from Harbor Freight or somewhere. I guess you might be able to rent one from a rental place but then you'd still need to find some thick wall tubing and make a couple tools to press them out. If there is another way I wish someone else would speak up. Good luck.
__________________
'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lexington N.C.
Posts: 160
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I have just removed & replaced the control arms & the rear traction arm or panhard bar bushings. I used a tool I got at harbor freight, its called a 3-in-1 ball joint/u joint/c-frame press service kit. Item 38335-ovga $39.99. Had to use a 1/2 inch socket with the tool to get the panhard bushing in but it pressed them right in, anyway it was better than beating banging on them. I hope this will be of some help. I also took these bushings out with this tool, even if I did try to push one of the control bushing out the wrong way, don't work to well that way. The web site http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
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98 Chevy Z71 1500 extended cab 99 Dodge carvan es 68 Chevy C10 LWB 50TH 396 eng 400 Trans 62 Wheel Horse tractor in good shape Last edited by woodchip; 04-02-2005 at 08:02 PM. |
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#11 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northeast--Bethlehem, Pennslyvania
Posts: 642
|
Thanks woodchip, That what kind of method I used to get the one side out. Got me one big c-clamp, opened it as far as it would go, on the one end i placed a big socket so the inner sleave would push out....it worked. I don't plan on doing the rest though, unless someone else does it.
Thanks John
__________________
Big Blue ( John ) 79 Chevy Pick up.....My Dailey STILL Working on a frame up: 1987 Truck body on a 78 Blazer frame. Need cab blasted to start project. Got the cab BLASTED, Now Prep and Paint. Started to lay SOME BONDO and primer. Done, Ordering paint. Got paint, Stuff painted,Cab,Fenders, Hood more later. 9/7/2015 Got the clear coat on,now time to take one off. Started to put things back (What a nightmare) like the heating and AC stuff,inside wire harness, outside AC unit and booster, still more. May 2016, still working on the inside. Got duck work in,heating and AC. Radio (stock) in dash with after market in console later, Speaker are hooked up, Steering column is in. Getting ready to drop the cab onto the frame, Working on engine now since I have the room. Well here it is 2018, got the engine in and it runs, now I need to get the exhaust system in so I can adjust the lifters, to loud right now. Got the exhaust on now I am waiting for the break parts to come in. |
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