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Old 04-04-2005, 07:36 PM   #1
70c10swb
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Question No spark

Im not geting any spark from the coil on the I-6. I have replaced the coil thinking that was the cause but no. i am geting power to it though and i have power at the points.

Now all i want to do is get this running so i can move it to where i want it. It never ran as long as i had it and the PO had most of the engine riped apart so i had to buy various items that i did not want to buy but i did anyway

Anyways i suspect it hasn't been on the road since '92 because the inspection sticker expired then. and i dont know when the last time it was run. so im thinking it may just be bad ignition wires because i pulled the coil wire and grounded it to the block and nothing.

so should i buy a new wire set or should i look somewhere else? i dont really want to spend much if any more money on the 6

any info will be apprechieated(sp)

thank you
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:40 PM   #2
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points and condensor are probably bad as well as the cap rotor and wires. start with the points and condensor
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:51 PM   #3
Touch_Of_Madness
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No power from the starter to the coil or from the coil to the distributor?
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:58 PM   #4
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so the points and condensor being bad will keep the coil from giving out power to the dizzy?

Im dumb when it comes to points, its before my time
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Old 04-04-2005, 09:15 PM   #5
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ohh i misread check your ground on the coil that very well could be your problem
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Old 04-04-2005, 09:44 PM   #6
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Take a test light and make sure you got power at the positive side of the coil. And make sure the power is connected to the positive side of the coil instead of the negative side. The coil should be marked + and -
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Old 04-04-2005, 11:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70c10swb
so the points and condensor being bad will keep the coil from giving out power to the dizzy?

Im dumb when it comes to points, its before my time
The points are an on/off switch to ground,the coil is a step up transformer,
voltage comes from the ing. switch to the + on the coil then the - goes to the points that ground out between the lobes as the cam turns completing an electrical circuit.
Check for voltage to the coil, out of the coil to the points,then unhook the wire to the points and check continuity to ground as the points open and close.
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Old 04-04-2005, 09:51 PM   #8
70c10swb
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i guess ill get points and condensor because they are only 5 bucks anyway and ill have to check the power to the coil tomarrow, but i remeber checking it before with a meter and i got 14 volts at the coil. and im positive that it is hooked up right to the + -.

thanks for the help guys...keep em comeing
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Old 04-04-2005, 10:01 PM   #9
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You said you have power to the points! Then with the meter or test light on the points rotate the engine and see if the test light/meter flashes/drops when the points close. This will tell you if the points are good (making and breaking contact with ground). You then can check the dwell to see if they are closing and opening enough. I would get spark out of the coil before I got the rest of the wires.
Worst case a jumper wire to ground and tap it on the points side of the coil should give you spark out of the of the coil.
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Old 04-04-2005, 10:46 PM   #10
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Oops misread the first post sorry bout that. Yeah no power from the coil to the points is either misadjusted points (or junk points), junk condenser, or faulty ground after the points.

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Old 04-04-2005, 11:01 PM   #11
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Had close to the same problem on my son's Cutlass with a 250 L6. Car had been siting for at least 20 years We opened the dizzy and found the contacts on the points were stuck together. New points, condenser, plugs and wires got it running.

One other hint. Before we got serious about starting it, we squirted some Marvel Mystery oil into each cylinder and let it sit for a few days to free up the rings. Must have worked since it started as soon as we hooked the coil wire it fired right up. Ran rough and smoked for a bit but now it runs pretty smooth.

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Old 04-04-2005, 11:06 PM   #12
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If you are getting 14 volts at the coil then you may have burned it up. You should only be getting 8 to 9 volts with the key on and full battery voltage while cranking.
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Old 04-04-2005, 11:26 PM   #13
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good move getting new condnsor/points.just make sure you set the points correctly.
.018"=.022" iirc.
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Old 04-05-2005, 06:29 PM   #14
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i put some new points and condensor in and im getting spark!! still wont fire yet but im one step closer!

Thanks for the help!
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Old 04-05-2005, 06:48 PM   #15
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Got spark to the plugs? Got fresh gas? This is overly simplistic, but helps me think these things thru: "All you need to get them to run is fuel, spark, and air" Yah, right.
In a pinch, in the old days, we could set points in an emergency with a matchbook cover, it was a close enough thickness, it could get you home. Are you keeping the engine? Switch to HEI. I think it was TXfirefighter who said 77 Nova?
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Old 04-05-2005, 07:39 PM   #16
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it sounds like it wants to fire but just wont, its geting gas. maybe just adjust the points because i just threw them in.

and no im not keeping. i just want it to fire so i can move it like 100 feet so that i can start tearing it down.

hmmm...
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Old 04-05-2005, 11:42 PM   #17
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is it fresh gas?
try pouring about an ounce down the carb throat.
warning:don't do this unless your relatively sure the timing is right.
if your unsure of the timing, try bumping the dizzy opposite the direction of rotation to advance it a bit.a little then try it.repeat as needed.
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Old 04-06-2005, 12:07 AM   #18
70c10swb
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ill try that chevibubba

i hate waiting through work all day because all i think about all day is working on it and when the time finaly comes i only have two hours of light lol
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Old 04-06-2005, 01:48 PM   #19
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3 hours of light now. Daylight savings time saves the day again!
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