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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: warner robins ga
Posts: 158
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coolant problem
Has anyone out there had this problem. I have a 85 chevy truck with a 305 in it. I have a aftermarket temp gauge in it. I have a 190 themasatat in it and the temp gauge stays at 190 when the truck warms up all the way,but after i finish driving if i pop my hood both my upper and lower radiator hoses are sucked in like know coolant is getting to my block but my temp never goes above 190 why driving. Has anyone had this problem?
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#2 |
Tonawanda 454
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Liquid Sunshine State
Posts: 2,755
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sounds like time for new hoses and radiator cap... replace those then let us know if it is still over-pressurizing.. had a similar problem on a 79
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91 Chevy Suburban Tonawanda 454 R2500 - SOLD!!! ![]() 04 Dodge Durango 5.7L Hemi 2WD, 24K miles (as of July 2011) In the past 30 years about 90% of Fords are still on the road, the other 10% made it home. ------------------- |
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#3 |
Shadetree Mechanic
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Youngsville, NC
Posts: 100
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Sounds like a radiator cap
The cap should have a one way valve that allows fluid from the overflow to enter the radiator as the fluid cools and condenses. Sounds like the cap is broken.
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Dave M. (Hacksaw) 86 C10 Scottsdale LWB, 4.3L, Edelbrock 1904, K&N, 700R4, 3.08 Auburn Performance 89 GMC S-15 Extended Cab 4x4, 4.3L, FI 98 K1500 Xcab, 5.7L, 3.43 Gov-Lok |
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#4 |
Parts and more parts
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere
Posts: 6,821
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I agree with the fact that new hoses and cap may be needed, BUT I would also look at what your coolant level is. The fact that the hoses are sucking in , relates to the fact that your radiator is NOT completely filled. When I fill my truck I work as much of the air out that I can and then I run it for awhile and then work the rest out. the hose is sucking in, because the system is not full and a vacuum is being drawn on the system, which causes the hoses to collapse.
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#5 |
Tonawanda 454
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Liquid Sunshine State
Posts: 2,755
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i was actually gonna reply with same info piecesparts just said... make sure it is full and if it has an overflow resivoir, fill that to cold level at least
__________________
91 Chevy Suburban Tonawanda 454 R2500 - SOLD!!! ![]() 04 Dodge Durango 5.7L Hemi 2WD, 24K miles (as of July 2011) In the past 30 years about 90% of Fords are still on the road, the other 10% made it home. ------------------- |
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#6 |
White 82
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Eustace, Texas
Posts: 100
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the bottom hose should have a spring in it to keep it from sucking together if it is sucking together then the hose is bad
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1966 GTO 455 e-heads, 1982 Chevy k10 4'' lift 33’' tires, 2008 Pontiac g6 v6 |
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#7 |
Dino burner
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 602
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I agree with replacing both radiator hoses and the radiator cap.
Even if the hoses weren't bad before and it was just the rad cap, once those hoses have been strained like yours have, spend the $20 to get new hoses. One less thing to worry about. Perhaps throw in another $2 for four new stainless steel hose clamps, too. DJS |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: warner robins ga
Posts: 158
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Thanks guys. By the way my overflow tank has no cap on it it broke off. Do i really need a cap on it?
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 1,365
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Make sure the rad is completely full, make sure the cap is on right. Some caps have an arrow or a dot that has to be aligned with the overflow line. Make sure you have fluid in the overflow tank and the hose is down in the fluid. The rad will either suck fluid out of the tank or overflow into it as needed. I don't think the cap matters, but would be a good idea to put one on.
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