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04-26-2005, 12:49 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 104
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New wiring HELP.. Painless or M&H
Painless kit 10206 $309.00 or M&H for $950.00
Pro and cons. 70 chevy going back semi stock with old air, hei and new tilt steering. i would like a clean setup (like stock but cleaner) i have read a lot of post on painless but have not seen to many on m&h. and thought?? |
04-26-2005, 12:55 AM | #2 |
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Personally don't care for Painless. I like M&H. But I prefer Ron Francis. They can also build the harness for what ever plug you need for the alternator, steering column, etc.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
04-26-2005, 12:59 AM | #3 | |
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Quote:
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04-26-2005, 02:27 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Rockville,In. USA
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Goplay2 if you decide to go the M&H wiring route check out our web site electrical wiring pages, we only carry M&H wiring harnesses at 25-30% below there retail prices. You'll find the wiring here
http://www.gmcpauls.com/Electrical.htm GMCPaul |
04-26-2005, 04:12 AM | #5 |
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Location: Plymouth, MA
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Goplay2-
I used the Painless kit and found it to be really well made. It was easy to install and came with well written instructions. It is very versatile, I am running a '95 LT1 with all the factory accessories and the kit had everything to hook them up to include the correct wiring for the altenator.
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1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story |
04-26-2005, 08:22 AM | #6 | |
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NPilot1975,
Not to hijack the thread, but how did you wire the Painless system into the neutral safety switch? The stock GM column switch only has 4 wires and the Pinleaa harness requires a fifth one to be hooked to the switch. Quote:
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Just Passin' Thru Some projects are like herding cats; others are like putting out fires; this one was like herding cats on fire..... |
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04-26-2005, 10:42 AM | #7 |
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Mocwon-
Are you talking about for the LT1? I actually used a combination of the switch housing that came on the colmn and the guts from a switch like the one they show in the instructions. The screw holes did not line up for the replacement switch, I believe it is from a newer model truck. You just have to be careful as you bend the tangs not to break them off.
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1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story Last edited by NPilot1975; 04-26-2005 at 10:43 AM. |
04-26-2005, 11:17 AM | #8 |
Fixing my 67, & loving it
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bridge City, Texas
Posts: 524
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How about the EZ wiring? Is it any good? Runs about $150 on Evilbay. Has anyone tried it? I know I have heard you get what you pay for. Just wondering.
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Email address- inspector722@aol.com Zip Code- 77611 Shipping- DHL & USPS Working on: 67, large back glass, 307 V8, 200 4R, 3.73 rearend, Short Stepside Bed |
04-26-2005, 12:52 PM | #9 |
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NPilot1975,
No, mine's an '87 MAF setup off a Camaro. The stock '72 Chevy gear shift switch is completely different and the switch recommended by Painless isn't even close to fitting. I'll keep poking around. Thanks
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Just Passin' Thru Some projects are like herding cats; others are like putting out fires; this one was like herding cats on fire..... |
04-26-2005, 02:15 PM | #10 |
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mocwon-
I looked through the catalog of switches at NAPA and found the one that looked like the one that painless has. There are a few styles, the all plastic one will not work. There is one like it with a metal back. Like I said, I had to use the metal back from the original switch and put the guts from the switch I bought from NAPA. If I wasn't overseas I would look for a part number on it.
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1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story |
04-26-2005, 03:43 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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Just Passin' Thru Some projects are like herding cats; others are like putting out fires; this one was like herding cats on fire..... |
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