Drum pics..take a look plz!!

[C&C Chevy]

just changed shoes and double checking if everything looks good!

[fade94]

[Zilverado]

Looks right from here. Best suggestion (for next time) rebuild one side at a time so you always have a completed one to look at for reference while your working the other side. Maybe you already knew that...

[C&C Chevy]

Yeah I did that, Z. Just double, double checking.

Well I got done with both now. Including new wheel cylinders, and bleed job on the rear. Not a bad job. Took alittle over 2 hrs.

[schnitz]

Originally Posted by C&C Chevy

Yeah I did that, Z. Just double, double checking.

Well I got done with both now. Including new wheel cylinders, and bleed job on the rear. Not a bad job. Took alittle over 2 hrs.

You're kidding on the two hour part, right?? The left rear tire on my '84 took longer than that to come off. And then all the parts landed in a heap in the drum.

In a while, Chet.

[Zilverado]

Originally Posted by schnitz

You're kidding on the two hour part, right?? The left rear tire on my '84 took longer than that to come off. And then all the parts landed in a heap in the drum.

In a while, Chet.

Sweet - - sounds kinda familiar to me too.

[Zilverado]

Originally Posted by C&C Chevy

Yeah I did that, Z. Just double, double checking.

Well I got done with both now. Including new wheel cylinders, and bleed job on the rear. Not a bad job. Took alittle over 2 hrs.

Sounds great - - that was 2 hours well spent... you had fun, learned some stuff, got the satisfaction of doing the work yourself and saved a few $$$. Now, make sure you clean up your tools, then take 'er for a ride and relax....

[truckinbean]

I'm gonna change my brake shoes and one wheel cylinder soon and this will be the first time I've done it myself. Got any tips to make it easier on me? I have the brake tools and I can get the drum off but beyond that I've never messed with it.

I was also considering removing my parking brake cables, but I wasn't sure if it was okay to take them out. Or are they there for a reason? I never use them and I think the cables are one source of many rattles that I have in the blazer.

Thanks,
Ben

[C&C Chevy]

Like the others had said take both rear whells off and use one as a reference so you don't get lost. I assume you have the brake pliers with a little hook on it. Those really help out on the springs. Gives you more leverage for pulling. I took off the shoe holding spring last so they wouldn't fall apart while pulling the other springs. I put them on first when re-installing the springs, so the shoes would stay in place.

The wheel cylinders are easy once you get the drums off. Just 2 screws, I had to wd-40 them cause they were stuck (rusted) in the backing plate. Get a golf tee or something similar to plug the brake line. And don't forget to bleed the new cylinders.

[raceman6135]

If I don't know how old the return springs and the hold-down springs are, I'll replace those at the same time I'm replacing the shoes. Only a few bucks more, and everything's apart anyway.

I also find it easier to pre-assemble the shoes before putting them onto the backing plates.

Don't forget just a small amount of high-temperature grease on the backing plates where the shoes move. Only a tiny bit, though, because you don't want it on the shoe's friction surface at all.

Nice job using the jack stand and jack!

Darrin

[boxrodz]

Looks good, C&C. But, is the C-clip on the pin going thru the brake shoe missing? I can't tell if it's there or not. (See pic below.)

I second the brake lube that raceman suggests. I would also put some lube on the moving metal-to-metal contact and pivot points as well as inside the brake adjuster mechanism. A lot of parts, but it's not bad once you dive into it. Be careful, not to breathe the brake dust.
BTW, I'd keep the parking (emergency) brake intact.

[Zilverado]

Originally Posted by boxrodz

....BTW, I'd keep the parking (emergency) brake intact.

I agree, the e-brake is a good thing to have in working condition. It is there an as "emergency" (manual) brake if you ever have a brake system failure. Now, hopefully you'll never need it for that, but it is also useful when parking on sloped grades - even a city driveway. Engaging the e-brake before releasing the brake pedal in "park" will take the strain of holding the vehicle in place off of your tranny. Likewise, it makes getting the truck into gear later on much simpler. Just keep the e-brake engaged until you have the truck in gear.

If you say yours isn't working, it's likely the cable that needs some lube or replacing. I'd look into it if I were you. That's just my opinion, though.

[C&C Chevy]

Originally Posted by boxrodz

Looks good, C&C. But, is the C-clip on the pin going thru the brake shoe missing? I can't tell if it's there or not. (See pic below.)

Yeah, it's on there.

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by C&C Chevy

Yeah, it's on there.

[MylilBowTie]

One good idea is to wet everything down with brake cleaner, it helps with all the loose brake dust from getting airborne.

This is for a 14 bolt full floating differential but its pretty close to what 1/2 tons have. It may be of some help to those that haven't seen or messed with drum brakes. Shows where to lube the parts and places, and the other plus a lot of pictures.

http://www.lighthouse57.com/brakes.htm

[79BIG10]

Originally Posted by MylilBowTie

This is for a 14 bolt full floating differential but its pretty close to what 1/2 tons have. It may be of some help to those that haven't seen or messed with drum brakes. Shows where to lube the parts and places, and the other plus a lot of pictures.

http://www.lighthouse57.com/brakes.htm

That link was a lifesaver for me. It really helps with what you need for our 1/2 tons. With my complete axle swap I referred to that for a couple things to find out what spring went where. Make sure to get some new everything while you're there. It will help for sure.