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#1 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Oroville, CA ( northern California)
Posts: 466
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Wood bed replacement
How diffcult is it to replace the wood in a 68 chevy Long Bed?
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#2 |
#16876
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Auburn WA
Posts: 12,266
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Heres a couple pics. Was not fun at all, but rewarding non the less. Was not hard, but it was hard work.
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Posted via Stationary Device '71 Custom Deluxe C-20 402. '67 Buick Special 455. '49 Plymouth Special Deluxe. "I love that old car smell" ![]() Some people are like Slinkies... not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs. Last edited by Sillyoldman; 06-11-2005 at 03:44 PM. |
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#3 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Arizona
Posts: 305
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Quote:
Trial fitting of the bed: ![]() After the strips were painted: ![]() Sanding and prefinishing wood: ![]() Finally completed: ![]() demi |
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#4 |
Where's my beer?
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 1,772
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Aw, come on guys, Stacy David made is look so easy on Truck TV, it cant be that hard!
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70 C10, shortstep, .30 over 250,Hurst shifted 3 spd parts hauler. Holley 390, Clifford Intake, Header, ported cylinder head, unknown bigger cam. 79 Corvette L82, 4 spd, black, red interior, headers, flowmasters, and unkown bigger cam. '03 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 4x4 daily driver. 165K miles, and runs great '08 Tahoe LTZ 4x4 155K |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Chattanooga TN
Posts: 115
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Any problem converting a non wood bed to a wood bed?
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#6 |
The LuvShack Garage
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side)
Posts: 30,474
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Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T |
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#7 |
PROJECT 7DEUCE
![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: GRANTS PASS OR
Posts: 21,606
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Beautiful Truck You Have There Demi....
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GO BIG GREEN ![]() MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P.. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 3,071
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Just love the wood beds!!!!
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Alex 1971 Lil' Red 350 SBC 700R4 |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Easley, South Carolina
Posts: 491
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Just curious, How would you do it to a truck that's mounted on the frame (with a floor that needs to be replaced) but the bed has 4 year old paint job, which would make it difficult to lay on the side. Could you just leave the bed resting on just the front bed panel and the rear sill, remove the wood and replace?
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Richard Dobson |
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#10 | |
#16876
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Auburn WA
Posts: 12,266
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Quote:
It was nessesary to take the bed off. In fact it went down to pieces. Laying it on its side was just something I found made it easier for me while I either drilled or ground the heads off each and every bolt. The nuts had crispy 34 YO undercoating on them and they recess up into the cross sills. I did not see much alternative.
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Posted via Stationary Device '71 Custom Deluxe C-20 402. '67 Buick Special 455. '49 Plymouth Special Deluxe. "I love that old car smell" ![]() Some people are like Slinkies... not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs. |
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#11 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Arizona
Posts: 305
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Richard,
I did exactly what you want to do. I removed the wood with the bed resting on the frame. In the pic, the arrows point to a 3/4 in. piece bolted to the sides on the cross supports. Because I'm in Az, the bolts were easily removed with just a 3/8 ratchet and a socket I made for the 4pt nut. However, I did need to break one off with the impact. I didn't have the room to actually remove the bed, so this is why I went this route. Before the final prep work and paint, the bed was then taken off. After the truck was painted, the bed was placed back on the frame and then the floor was assembled. ![]() demi |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: North Louisiana
Posts: 4,501
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Sillyoldman & Demi- Just curious what kind of wood you used, and what you finished it with. I just got through cutting & grooving mine, (white oak) and am shopping for something to color & seal it with. I would like for it to come out something like this. (see pic)
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Wynne 70 CST short fleet Hugger orange & white, 350/350, ps, pb, air, tilt, tach/vac/speedwarning, original buckets, AM/FM, oak bed floor, shoulder belts, 3.5"/5.5" drop, 20" American Racing VN425s. Build thread 53 Chevy shortbed 69 Camaro Click here to subscribe Chevy GMC International Truck Club Louisiana Charter Member http://www.louisianaclassictruckclub.com |
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#13 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Arizona
Posts: 305
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Quote:
I used pine for the wood. demi |
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#14 |
#16876
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Auburn WA
Posts: 12,266
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Pine was original (so was painted pine) so I kept it the same. I thgink it goes better with the yellow than a darker wood. I used six coats of spar varnish. Its marine grade. You might want to keep a test sample and try mainly a varnish, because varnish will also darken the wood slightly.
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Posted via Stationary Device '71 Custom Deluxe C-20 402. '67 Buick Special 455. '49 Plymouth Special Deluxe. "I love that old car smell" ![]() Some people are like Slinkies... not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs. |
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#15 |
Orange Truck
![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Mount Juliet, Tennessee
Posts: 70
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I replaced the wood bed material (Stepside - Shortbed 1969 Chevrolet C10) with an oak kit that came from Mar T or Mar D(?) out of Oklahoma City. It was finished, grooved, holes drilled and washers countersunk. A restoration place advised me to use "Marine Varnish" that can usually be obtained from a Marine supply store, expensive at $27 per quart. Unlike regular varnish it will take the weather and will not "bubble up" on exposure. I put on three coats for a very attractive finished and topped off with "polished stainless strips and hardware fastners". Very pleased and had excellent comments.
Last edited by Orange Truck; 06-14-2005 at 09:20 AM. |
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cameron, Oklahoma
Posts: 199
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I've done a few of these. Easiest way I've found is to stand the bed up on the front panel. With an air ratchet or impact, you can strip one in no time. If you keep it inside or have a bed cover, the urethane will last a long time, but marine varnish is better.
I bought the last wood kit I used from board member "classicchev". Same price as Mar-K and the nicest white oak I've ever seen. And he's great to deal with. Frank
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72 Cheyenne SWB Fleet/original 402, TH400, buckets & console 65 C10, 350TBI, 700R4 (work in progress) |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Lynnwood, washington
Posts: 121
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I just wanted to say that silly(don) is a great guy and the wood bed even looks better in person than the photo's. Thank's again for the bedliner. It doesn't look as cool as a your wood bed, but for my old truck with the metal floor works awesome for fire wood and beauty bark.
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1972 chev c20 2wd lwb 350v8/th350. (dad's)1970 gmc longstep (9ft commercial bed), 1 ton, 2wd, 350/th400. Last edited by 70GMC_BOB; 06-14-2005 at 12:41 PM. |
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#18 | |
#16876
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Auburn WA
Posts: 12,266
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Quote:
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Posted via Stationary Device '71 Custom Deluxe C-20 402. '67 Buick Special 455. '49 Plymouth Special Deluxe. "I love that old car smell" ![]() Some people are like Slinkies... not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs. |
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#19 |
Nothings as cool as my 72
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Edmonton, AB, Kanuckastan
Posts: 181
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I agree a wood floor does look nice. But it is totally useless if you plan on using the box to put stuff in. My dad had a '69 CST and he wrecked the wood floor by using it to haul stuff. I will just keep my steel floor, fix the rust and put in rhino lining.
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1972 C10 Longbox In the middle of body off restoration Rebuilt 355, turbo 400, 3.42 12-bolt Rolling chassis finally done and cab mounted. Now onto sanding, bondo and more sanding. ![]() |
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#20 |
#16876
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Auburn WA
Posts: 12,266
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But it is totally useless if you plan on using the box to put stuff in.
Sorry, but I have to disagree with you on that one. My truck was in the weather for 34 years. Hauled rock, dirt, bark. You name it. It was only just the last couple years that the wood became weak and needed to be replaced. Would I haul with it now? No. But I have a different purpose for it now. I have seen steel beds rust out in the same time the wood rots. Yes it is more practical now a days to use steel. Try getting a used steel deck straight at the body shop. Wood beds have had a Usefullness since the beginning days of trucks themselves. JMHO.
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Posted via Stationary Device '71 Custom Deluxe C-20 402. '67 Buick Special 455. '49 Plymouth Special Deluxe. "I love that old car smell" ![]() Some people are like Slinkies... not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs. |
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#21 |
Junk Chevy C20 Big Block
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: East Texas
Posts: 68
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I have a old 3/4 ton with a wood floor that needs replacing.I squeek when I walk just like my old truck.Got a machine shop to cut the wood in but dont have any prints.You know where I can get some prints to make my wood floor?
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Lynnwood, washington
Posts: 121
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LOOK AT GMCPAULS WEBSITE. http://gmcpauls.com/47-72%20BedWood%20Info.htm
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1972 chev c20 2wd lwb 350v8/th350. (dad's)1970 gmc longstep (9ft commercial bed), 1 ton, 2wd, 350/th400. |
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#23 |
Junk Chevy C20 Big Block
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: East Texas
Posts: 68
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Thanks! Man!!! You guys are fart smellers! "Oh" smart fellers!
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