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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: LEXINGTON,SC,USA
Posts: 208
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u-joints gone...both...what to buy
![]() ![]() no zert...come permanently greased with zert...have to grease them with oil chg....could be a pain lets hear your thoughts...are both u-joint the same?
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TIM ![]() '71 CUSTOM C-10 torch red ,350 roller GM crate,3.73 GEARS, REAR 4"DROP SPRING, FRONT 2.5" DROP SPINDLE-1.5"lower spring, FRONT=17x8(4.5bs) W/265-60-17, BACK=17x9.5 (5bs)W/285-60-17, Vintage Air Sure Fit AC------NEVER ENDING PROJECT!! Last edited by RED71CHEVY; 08-12-2005 at 10:30 PM. Reason: need more info..input |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: S.W. Michigan
Posts: 403
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Personally, I prefer to grease my own. That way if they fail from no grease I have no-one else to blame.
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Good Judgment comes from experience. Most experience comes from bad judgment. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Elmira, Oregon
Posts: 449
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No grease ones are generally stronger. They don't have a hole through the middle to weaken them. If major torque is not an issue and you don't mind greasing them every once in awhile they might last longer though. I've used both and never had any serious problems. I'm not running 450HP either though.
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Enjoying life again. Time to get those big blocks rolling. Last edited by mr402; 08-12-2005 at 09:42 PM. |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: LEXINGTON,SC,USA
Posts: 208
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thanks for the quick answers. both of the u-joint (i have no center bearing) went out on monday ,as i was sittiing at a stop light, with my feet on the brake and gas waiting for the light to change, started hearing a little noise
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TIM ![]() '71 CUSTOM C-10 torch red ,350 roller GM crate,3.73 GEARS, REAR 4"DROP SPRING, FRONT 2.5" DROP SPINDLE-1.5"lower spring, FRONT=17x8(4.5bs) W/265-60-17, BACK=17x9.5 (5bs)W/285-60-17, Vintage Air Sure Fit AC------NEVER ENDING PROJECT!! |
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#5 |
Having issues
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Eldorado Ca, an hour east of sacramento
Posts: 696
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when you take the driveshaft off, you can visually verify sizes to see if they match. I prefer the kind of u-joint with the grease zerk on the end of the cap. This way you have the best of both worlds. Higher cross stregnth, and greaseability. THe non greaseable ones can and will fling thier grease out under certain circumstances. I prefer greaseable.
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Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati. The Man's Prayer: "I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess." |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Shreveport LA
Posts: 3,170
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If you use the ones with grease fittings in the cross, be sure you orient them so the torque from the engine tends to push the arms of the cross beside the hole together, instead of tending to pull them apart. The hole is a weak spot, and if the torque is trying to pull the arms apart, the cross will give way at the hole. When you're done, the hole on the front cross will be 90* off from the one on the rear cross.
Last edited by jimfulco; 08-13-2005 at 01:56 AM. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Glendale Arizona
Posts: 747
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I work at a driveshaft shop and never saw a properly greased u joint brake. Saw un- greased ones brake because they weren't greased.
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"A true hotrodder wouldn't be content untill he had created a car so violent, so hairy, so totally sick that the very act of dropping the hammer would result in instant death. Anything less results in the need to go faster." - Tony DeFeo |
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#8 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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interesting, working on fleets, (and doing the lube ourselves) we see many many greasable u-joints wear out, yet the sealed ones are far and few between.
In my old 92 S-10 blazer, I towed it to the junk yard with 160xxx miles on it, and it had the original U-joints, my boss's 99 burb has about 112k on it, and it has the originals, and even one in our fleet, I think a 95 or so c/3500...180K is when the original U joints started making noise and got replaced. However, we get light trucks and vans in ALL THE TIME for U-joints, and it is always the ones with zerk fittings in them. Now granted, only 2 or 3 BROKEN u-joints have come through the shop, and they were all from abuse. (We see more broken driveshafts than broken u-joints) |
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#9 |
Keep On Truckin'
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Buda, Texas
Posts: 1,354
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Spicer (made by Dana) is, without a doubt, the best brand going. Without zerks they are properly lubed to start with. With zerks you can properly lube them to start with and then if you are so inclined, lube them later as well which is obviously not an option with sealed u-joints.
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Just Passin' Thru Some projects are like herding cats; others are like putting out fires; this one was like herding cats on fire..... |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: LEXINGTON,SC,USA
Posts: 208
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thanx to all for the input..
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TIM ![]() '71 CUSTOM C-10 torch red ,350 roller GM crate,3.73 GEARS, REAR 4"DROP SPRING, FRONT 2.5" DROP SPINDLE-1.5"lower spring, FRONT=17x8(4.5bs) W/265-60-17, BACK=17x9.5 (5bs)W/285-60-17, Vintage Air Sure Fit AC------NEVER ENDING PROJECT!! |
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#11 |
newly minted old timer
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Hudson WI
Posts: 3,511
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its never ending! ugh.
i just had my whole drive line redone. had someone else do it ![]()
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____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban |
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#12 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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man... I had all that done for a little over 200. But mine are the HD non zerk U-joints.
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#13 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,813
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I have really had no problems with the greasable kind and prefer the convenience. All my trucks have had 6" to 10" of lift and 350hp+, the 10" was on an 85 short bed (maybe 250hp). Whatever you choose get a good quality name brand u-joint such as spicer. I believe I have used the Precision brand as well. The main difference between the cheapos is the number of needle bearings. A quality unit will have smaller bearings and there are more of them. Those standard Kragen/Autozones will not last. Sure they are warrantied but you will be changing them often.
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Richard 1972 K10 Custom Deluxe SWB Fleetside My build https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=800746 Last edited by Richard; 08-16-2005 at 02:52 AM. |
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