Kick panel repair - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

*wolfthing2000* · 09-28-2005, 10:41 PM

I am finishing up the repairs on floor and "A" pillar area and remember seeing a photo of a repair done in this area where the bottom of the kick area was left open. Does anyone have ideas on this or should I just weld it all back shut in this area?????

4x4Poet · 09-28-2005, 11:57 PM

I don't understand what you mean, exactly, from your word picture. The bottom of the kick panels are, in effect, clamped between the A-pillar and floor/"inner rocker".

As for the bottom edge of the kick panel, I only saw spot welds affixing the kick panel to the floor near the side to tranny hump floor seam (accessable with the front fender off) and spot welds affixing the k-p to the lip on the rocker that holds the door rubber.

motocrosschump · 09-29-2005, 09:13 AM

Gibbs Oil...!!! lol... I am just messing ..Weld that mug back up

*wolfthing2000* · 09-29-2005, 04:46 PM

Well, what I remember was an opening at the bottom about 1/2 to 3/4 inches high between floor and kick panel. In other words the kick panel stopped short of meeting the floor.
I believe I will just weld back to the floor panel.
Thanks

**raggedjim** · 09-29-2005, 05:36 PM

I replaced mine but I cut off the door pillar, cut off the kick panel then welded in a new kick panel and door pillar. The order from inside-out at the bolt area is front fender mounting tab, front cab support, floor panel (also called inner rocker), kick panel, then the door pillar. I may be able to come up with a picture of this if you need it.

Rg

4x4Poet · 09-30-2005, 04:12 AM

I gotcha Wolf. You mean the space between the floor and where the kick panel wraps under. The factory used a moisture absorbing sealant between the floor and the kick panel that made that area vulnerable to rust. Same sealant as what's between the floor and fire wall seam. Open cell foam is what it looks like. Says, "Come rust here!"

I would shoot some flexible, water-impenetrable sealant inbetween there. Welding the edge won't seal farther back in the gap and welding would burn any sealant effort. POR 15's PorPatch comes to mind, but other sealants would do well, no doubt. Affix one of those conical nozzles to the tube to get all the way back in there.

09-28-2005, 10:41 PM	#1
wolfthing2000 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,276	Kick panel repair I am finishing up the repairs on floor and "A" pillar area and remember seeing a photo of a repair done in this area where the bottom of the kick area was left open. Does anyone have ideas on this or should I just weld it all back shut in this area?????

09-28-2005, 11:57 PM	#2
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	I don't understand what you mean, exactly, from your word picture. The bottom of the kick panels are, in effect, clamped between the A-pillar and floor/"inner rocker". As for the bottom edge of the kick panel, I only saw spot welds affixing the kick panel to the floor near the side to tranny hump floor seam (accessable with the front fender off) and spot welds affixing the k-p to the lip on the rocker that holds the door rubber. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

09-29-2005, 09:13 AM	#3
motocrosschump Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: Texarkana, AR 71854 Posts: 397	Gibbs Oil...!!! lol... I am just messing ..Weld that mug back up __________________ 2006 Titan SE Crew Cab Daily Driver 2005 Mazda Tribute (Wifes car) 1969 C10 SWB 350/3 Fleet "Max" 1969 Chevelle 2 door 350/3

09-29-2005, 05:36 PM	#5
raggedjim Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Murray, Kentucky Posts: 3,589	I replaced mine but I cut off the door pillar, cut off the kick panel then welded in a new kick panel and door pillar. The order from inside-out at the bolt area is front fender mounting tab, front cab support, floor panel (also called inner rocker), kick panel, then the door pillar. I may be able to come up with a picture of this if you need it. Rg __________________ Roger '68 Short step - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=849675 '69 ('70?) 2wd Blazer '70 GMC Jimmy 2wd '73 Firebird - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=853203

09-30-2005, 04:12 AM	#6
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	I gotcha Wolf. You mean the space between the floor and where the kick panel wraps under. The factory used a moisture absorbing sealant between the floor and the kick panel that made that area vulnerable to rust. Same sealant as what's between the floor and fire wall seam. Open cell foam is what it looks like. Says, "Come rust here!" I would shoot some flexible, water-impenetrable sealant inbetween there. Welding the edge won't seal farther back in the gap and welding would burn any sealant effort. POR 15's PorPatch comes to mind, but other sealants would do well, no doubt. Affix one of those conical nozzles to the tube to get all the way back in there. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. Last edited by 4x4Poet; 09-30-2005 at 04:15 AM.

09-29-2005, 04:46 PM	#4
wolfthing2000 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,276	Well, what I remember was an opening at the bottom about 1/2 to 3/4 inches high between floor and kick panel. In other words the kick panel stopped short of meeting the floor. I believe I will just weld back to the floor panel. Thanks

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