Exhaust routing on lowered trucks?

[AKChevyman]

Ok I have a few question I am not quite there yet but I am curious on how you guys routed your exhaust I need examples I am running airbags and I will need room for the tank and pumps later but I want to run dual 3" for the Big block that is going in the front. I don't plan on changing the cross member that the trailing arms attach too either. Any help you guys can provided will be helpful Oh also I don't plan on going past the rear axle with it becuase I am running a custom fuel tank at the rear of the truck. SO the pipes will dump right in front of the rear wheels. so I guess my main question is do I stay in the frame or go out side right from the get go. as always any advise is good advise thank you.

[7deuce]

You can either spend $350 on a EEC X member or take a torch and cut a big hole on both side of the X member. If you want to get fancy cut some 4 inch pipe and weld it in, thats what I did.

[Joe67]

Originally Posted by 7deuce

You can either spend $350 on a EEC X member or take a torch and cut a big hole on both side of the X member.

If you want to get fancy cut some 4 inch pipe and weld it in, thats what I did.

Cutting holes has been a common recommended method on the board. More then likely the way I will end up going

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by 67c10step

Cutting holes has been a common recommended method on the board. More then likely the way I will end up going

Me too. Mine are routed under the crossmember now and after the front end comes down another 1-1/2 - 2" this weekend I'm thinking I'm gonna have some issues....

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 7deuce

You can either spend $350 on a EEC X member or take a torch and cut a big hole on both side of the X member. If you want to get fancy cut some 4 inch pipe and weld it in, thats what I did.

That's what I had done for my RestRod.

First, we completely boxed the crossmember to make the structure stronger. Then we opened up the drive-shaft hole for more clearance @ the top, cut the holes for the 4" dia pipe, & welded them in. We also welded the trailing arm mounts on the outside of the brackets for added insurance (mine's a big block too). My exhaust consists of Sanderson 3/4 length Chevelle headers & 3" mandrel exhaust the dumps just in front of the rear-end. You can't see the exhaust system from the side of the truck (it does not hang below the frame).

Now I'm re-engineering it all & purchased an ECE c-member because I want more ground clearance & I hope to be able to snake that 3" exhaust all the way back to the rear corner of the bedsides/bumper area. I'm raising the bed-floor to accomplish the exhaust (there's not enough room otherwise).

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

That's what I had done for my RestRod.

First, we completely boxed the crossmember to make the structure stronger. Then we opened up the drive-shaft hole for more clearance @ the top, cut the holes for the 4" dia pipe, & welded them in. We also welded the trailing arm mounts on the outside of the brackets for added insurance (mine's a big block too). My exhaust consists of Sanderson 3/4 length Chevelle headers & 3" mandrel exhaust the dumps just in front of the rear-end. You can't see the exhaust system from the side of the truck (it does not hang below the frame).

Now I'm re-engineering it all & purchased an ECE c-member because I want more ground clearance & I hope to be able to snake that 3" exhaust all the way back to the rear corner of the bedsides/bumper area. I'm raising the bed-floor to accomplish the exhaust (there's not enough room otherwise).

Any pics of your current set-up?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Any pics of your current set-up?

Unfortunately, no pics @ this time.

I have the bed partially disassembled though so I'll see if I cant get some. I'm assuming you want shots of the exhaust routing as it goes through the crossmember?

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Unfortunately, no pics @ this time.

I have the bed partially disassembled though so I'll see if I cant get some. I'm assuming you want shots of the exhaust routing as it goes through the crossmember?

Ya, that and the mods to the xmember itself. Just curious because I think an ECE version might be in my future depending on how low I end up going.

[Frizzle Fry]

If it goes through the crossmember it still has to drop below the frame to come out before the rear tires right? Here's what I did, but my headers hang kinda low to begin with.

[dennislbrooks]

7deuce, please post pic.

[67Fleet]

Looks great Frizzle! Yeah, long tubes are out of the question for me. They wouldn't last very long with all these horrible FL roads.

[layed67chevy]

when i lay mine out i'm sitting on my headers so i'm gonna have to go with some shorty headers or reg manifolds.....it all depends on how low you want to go

[AKChevyman]

Well I don't plan on going low but I guess I will have the option since I have 3" drop spindles and running bags so I can run what ever fits I guess ;o) But really I only want it low enough to even it out or some thing around the lines of 4/6 for the drop do you think that will be too low to run full length headers like Fizzle. I like the look of a 4/6 drop but if that is too low I will have to go higher.

[Tx Firefighter]

I've run both Hooker Comp and Dynomax full length headers on 4/6 dropped trucks. Neither were an issue with hanging too low. These were small block applications though.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I've run both Hooker Comp and Dynomax full length headers on 4/6 dropped trucks. Neither were an issue with hanging too low. These were small block applications though.

If your response is to AKChevyman, with a 3" spindle and bags, his ride height is going to be somewhere in the 5-6" drop range... so once he dumps the bags, he's going to be way beyond the 4/6 point you're describing.

[Frizzle Fry]

I don't know exactly what my drop is because my set up is a mixed bag. 2.5" spindles with cut small block springs and a 396. I have at least 2.5" maybe 3" blocks in the back (custom made by me about 10 years ago). I'll have to measure. I think the rear springs are saggin on top of that so take your best guess at what drop I have... Anyway, the exhaust rarely scrapes over LARGE bumps and it is a 127" wheelbase.

[Tx Firefighter]

Frizzle, are those 255/50/17's on your Suburban?

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Frizzle, are those 255/50/17's on your Suburban?

Pretty darn close Tx: They're 255/45/17s and 275/40/17s. The pic in this thread has those, the pics in my sig link are the old ones which I think were 255/45/17's all around if I remember correctly. Time to post some new pics

[AKChevyman]

Thank you all for the great inputs and XXL I don't plan on ever running my bags empty I don't want to lay out at all I am just running the bags for ride quality and to have the flexability to tow a trailer if I still need too. I am only looking for a 4/6 drop ride height and if that won't have enough room for headers then I guess I will make it a 3/5 drop but I will have option with airbags ;o) I think please let me know if I am wrong.

[Bowtiefreak]

A little off topic but I see that ECE is running a sale on their extreme crossmember.

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by AKChevyman

Thank you all for the great inputs and XXL I don't plan on ever running my bags empty I don't want to lay out at all I am just running the bags for ride quality and to have the flexability to tow a trailer if I still need too. I am only looking for a 4/6 drop ride height and if that won't have enough room for headers then I guess I will make it a 3/5 drop but I will have option with airbags ;o) I think please let me know if I am wrong.

If those thoughts are real and true, then I sincerely suggest that you go with a static 3/5 or 4/6 drop and then get helper bags for the rear to assist when you need to tow something. Airlift, ECE, and McGaughy's all make quality helper systems that you should consider. The options are out there, but there's no reason to spend a ton of money when you don't need to. A static lowering kit when done right will ride almost or as good as bags, you just won't be able to adjust your ride height all the time. But the helper kit out back will be great for hauling or towing when you need it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67Fleet

If those thoughts are real and true, then I sincerely suggest that you go with a static 3/5 or 4/6 drop and then get helper bags for the rear to assist when you need to tow something. Airlift, ECE, and McGaughy's all make quality helper systems that you should consider. The options are out there, but there's no reason to spend a ton of money when you don't need to. A static lowering kit when done right will ride almost or as good as bags, you just won't be able to adjust your ride height all the time. But the helper kit out back will be great for hauling or towing when you need it.

Or compromise like I did w/my 68 Beater. Up front I did 3" spindles + 1 coil cut from the stock springs & added a 1.25" HD 1-ton 73-up sway-bar. For the rear I installed dbl convoluted style bags (Firestones) & 2" blocks. I relocated my shocks, did the bolt-in c-sections & added an adjustable pan-hard bar to align it all up.

It has towed my 74 in my avatar on my 18ft car hauler w/o any issues.

[AKChevyman]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Or compromise like I did w/my 68 Beater. Up front I did 3" spindles + 1 coil cut from the stock springs & added a 1.25" HD 1-ton 73-up sway-bar. For the rear I installed dbl convoluted style bags (Firestones) & 2" blocks. I relocated my shocks, did the bolt-in c-sections & added an adjustable pan-hard bar to align it all up.

It has towed my 74 in my avatar on my 18ft car hauler w/o any issues.

67Fleet/Scoti Thank you for the advice but I have already purchased and drilled the holes for the airbags and I plan on mounting them this week sometime. I will let you guys know as soon as it is done hopefully with some pics.

[confucius_Sez]

anyone know what the stock height of an '86 2wd c10 front coil would be? or are the ends of the coil upposed tobe a rough cut? or smooth? mine look like they were cut with a plasma cutter or a titanium toofed dog chewed them off...maybe that would explain my inside of the tires to be worn down prematurely....and why i have 7-8 shims per each upper control arm...

[XXL]

Originally Posted by confucius_Sez

anyone know what the stock height of an '86 2wd c10 front coil would be? or are the ends of the coil upposed tobe a rough cut? or smooth? mine look like they were cut with a plasma cutter or a titanium toofed dog chewed them off...maybe that would explain my inside of the tires to be worn down prematurely....and why i have 7-8 shims per each upper control arm...

I don't know the height, but the bottom loop will have a square cut that's pretty clean and the top loop will also be cut square, but be rolled in such a way as to wind up nice and tight next to the coil below it.

Something like this...