Lower in the back

[Purs]

I need to get the arse end of my '68 coil spring C10 down about 1.5-2" blocks seem to be the most economical. Can I get the parts at a local store or am I going to have to order them? What else is needed other than longer U bolts and the blocks themselves? thanks.

[wessscott]

That is all you need.

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by Purs

I need to get the arse end of my '68 coil spring C10 down about 1.5-2" blocks seem to be the most economical. Can I get the parts at a local store or am I going to have to order them? What else is needed other than longer U bolts and the blocks themselves? thanks.

I am not sure if blocks will work. The U-bolts on these things are different than the two U-bolt set up on 73 and ups. Unless LMC or one of the other suppliers on the board carry them, they do not exist. The best way is a set of lowered springs.

[Tx Firefighter]

I've posted this pic before a lot of times.


This is a set I built for a 72. The blocks are simply scrap 2x3 thick wall tubing that I boxed the ends of and drilled holes through for the u-bolts to pass through.

The u-bolts came from my local spring shop. They make them while you wait for under 30 bucks per pair.

[Tx Firefighter]

Yes, blocks will work. I've lowered em plenty o times that way. Have a local spring shop make your ubolts just like stock only longer. Take one of your stockers to show them.

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Yes, blocks will work. I've lowered em plenty o times that way. Have a local spring shop make your ubolts just like stock only longer. Take one of your stockers to show them.

The one time I tried blocks the holes did not line up. The U-bolts from our trucks are wider and will not fit in the holes on the blocks. Just my one experience, maybe you found a different block with a wider mounting surface?

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

The one time I tried blocks the holes did not line up. The U-bolts from our trucks are wider and will not fit in the holes on the blocks. Just my one experience, maybe you found a different block with a wider mounting surface?

Sorry I was typing my response to your post above and then your homebuilt pict came up, so I missed it. If you home build em then the holes are where you put em. I bought a set of lowering blocks and they did not work, that was my point.

[Tx Firefighter]

completely understandable on the missed post there ghost rider.

The story is, I was working for the Postal Service as a mechanic at the time and we had no work to do, so I made the blocks as a "Gub ment project" in my spare time.

[Tx Firefighter]

Read my post above, I MADE the blocks out of steel and drilled my own holes.

[raggedjim]

Classic Performance Products sells blocks specifically for coil sprung trucks, as well as ECE. I have blocks from CPP and they work great.
http://www.classicperform.com/goingdown6772.htm
The cheapo blocks from Azone or other auto parts stores won't work.

Good luck, Rg

[Tx Firefighter]

Damn, CPP gets 69 bucks a pair for those lowering block sets. I need to start making them as a sideline for extra cash.

[raggedjim]

Tx, you got that right, they ain't cheap... I'll buy a set of 2" from you (ubolts included), how much do you want?

Rg

[67Fleet]

I got mine from CPP also. They fit great. It was a total PITA to get the old u-bolt on the passenger side out. Ended up hitting it with the air hammer and it finally broke free. Here's a pic for ya:

[pebbleboy]

Would it be just as easy and about the same price to just put new springs in there?

[Tx Firefighter]

New springs go about 100-110 bucks, plus 10 bucks or more for shipping.

I built the lowering blocks because scrap rectangular tubing was like 2 or 3 bucks, and the u-bolts were just under 30. Total price under 35 bucks for me.

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by pebbleboy

Would it be just as easy and about the same price to just put new springs in there?

Yes, to do it up front it would, but I had 4" drop springs in there already and it was also cheaper for me to go this route.

[raggedjim]

That's where I'm at, 4" springs with 2" blocks for 6" drop, without having to worry about shock relocators...

Rg

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

That's where I'm at, 4" springs with 2" blocks for 6" drop, without having to worry about shock relocators...

Rg

you still need the relocators. Its not about the length, it's about the angle. I couldn't believe how much of a difference it made after I installed mine.

[Tx Firefighter]

I think what's he's getting at is that his rear shocks are only "seeing" 4 inches of drop with that setup.

I personally have run all the way down to 6 inches of drop without shock relocators without too bad of a ride, and 4 inches without any real noticeable deteoriation in ride at all. That said, I run shock relocators on all my dropped stuff now. I used cut and weld panhard bars to change their length too.

[powell72]

I made my own blocks like Tx did and had to do some fabbing on the passenger side where the mount for the adjustable panhard interfered with the block. I had my block above the mount since my truck was bagged. Did you have an adjustable bar Tx? Was your block below the mount?

[Tx Firefighter]

Powell, that truck has an ECE adjustable bar, not the super bar. It's mounted just like stock, on top of the differential.

[raggedjim]

I'm with TX on this one, tons of people will claim you need a c-notch with a 6" drop, but it's not true...

I think the shock relocators are a good idea, as they do correct the shock angle, but is it a NEED, nope, 15,000 miles and I haven't needed it so far.

Course I haven't needed my fire extinguisher either... hmmm...

Good night, Rg

[milehightoyz]

hey im thinking of making me some quick lowering blocks like the ones yuove made out of square tube. how imperative is it that you box the ends as you did? what wall thickness did you use both on the channel and on the boxing ends? thanks again

[67chevemall]

could always get two airbags with the lines and valves 4 now.
Compressor to go up and a finger nail to go down.
$0.02

[Tx Firefighter]

I used thick wall rectangular tubing. It was 1/8 or 1/4 inch thick, I don't remember now. I didn't see any need to box the ends, but I was doing it as a "governement project" back when I worked for the Post Office, so I had plenty of time to make them fancy.

I've seen lots of guys just use the tubing and leave them open front and rear.