Dead in the water...

[farside847]

Driving into work today, the stereo started cutting out. I didnt think much of it thinking I must have a short and made a mental note to trace the wires later. Well, later on a stupid yellow bus cut me off and I hit the breaks to stop, and the truck stalled. Went to start it and nothing, not even a click. I was stuck.

I went and put on my hazzards and they worked, but slowly. So now Im wondering what the problem is. Now, just so you know last weekend I installed a new power distribution box right off the battery that replaced the old power junction. It has nice fuses for all my accessories. I also hooked up a nice fat 10 guage wire and ran it from the new fusebox to my 200w amp under my seat. I then hooked up the ground for the amp, but never attached the signal wire so it should never have had turned on to drain any power. (well, shouldnt have anyway)

So now Im thinking:
A - power drain from unused amp
B - bad alternator
C - bad battery

What do you guys think? Im trying to charge it today, but are there easy ways to test for a power drain? Or easy test for an alternator without pulling it and taking it to Napa?

thanks for your help guys

[Luvlegs]

Sounds like a drain - possible you skinned a wire when running them? - killed battery - no start - weak flashers - no reason to suspect alternator - pull off ground on battery - put volt meter in between battery (-) and (-) cable - see if you are drawing and then start pulling fuses - isolate the circuit and go from there.

[cdowns]

you state all the wires you ran and did this that and another thing// did you ever give any thougt to removing and cleaning (shiney metal) your existing grounds to complete the circuit???

[farside847]

Originally Posted by Luvlegs

Sounds like a drain - possible you skinned a wire when running them? - killed battery - no start - weak flashers - no reason to suspect alternator - pull off ground on battery - put volt meter in between battery (-) and (-) cable - see if you are drawing and then start pulling fuses - isolate the circuit and go from there.

Thanks!

So to test for a power draw pull the negative battery cable and put a volt meter between the cable and the battery? Positive volts means there is a drain, no volts means no drain?

[Luvlegs]

Originally Posted by farside847

Thanks!

So to test for a power draw pull the negative battery cable and put a volt meter between the cable and the battery? Positive volts means there is a drain, no volts means no drain?

Yep - keep in mind things like the clock in your radio - if equipped - they draw - very little but don't jump on the first draw you see and think you've done it.

[Rdub]

sometimes it's the basics that get missed.... I was having problems with my battery... if the truck sat for more than a couple days I would have to charge the battery..... sometimes after I had driven for a while it was like the ignition switch or starter was failing, wouldn't turn over..... when it did start the lights were dim etc... figured I would have to replace the alt. or volt. reg at minimum. I started disconnecting the neg terminal to save the battery & one day noticed the cable terminal was corroded.... cleaned it up, checked the other end & the connection to the engine didn't look good either so I cleaned it up and the postive cable ends also...... no problems since..... just a thought..... good luck!

[farside847]

Originally Posted by Rdub

sometimes it's the basics that get missed.... I was having problems with my battery... if the truck sat for more than a couple days I would have to charge the battery..... sometimes after I had driven for a while it was like the ignition switch or starter was failing, wouldn't turn over..... when it did start the lights were dim etc... figured I would have to replace the alt. or volt. reg at minimum. I started disconnecting the neg terminal to save the battery & one day noticed the cable terminal was corroded.... cleaned it up, checked the other end & the connection to the engine didn't look good either so I cleaned it up and the postive cable ends also...... no problems since..... just a thought..... good luck!

Thats kinda what I was thinking. I looked at the cables and there was no corrosion at all. I think they were replaced a year ago when the engine was rebuilt. But it does kinda sound like a poor ground doesnt it?

[Skruffy]

Originally Posted by farside847

Now, just so you know last weekend I installed a new power distribution box right off the battery that replaced the old power junction. It has nice fuses for all my accessories. I also hooked up a nice fat 10 guage wire and ran it from the new fusebox to my 200w amp under my seat. I then hooked up the ground for the amp, but never attached the signal wire so it should never have had turned on to drain any power. (well, shouldnt have anyway)
)

This is really should go without saying, but don't overlook the obvious.

If this came on suddenly and you have just done work to your electricals, even an "improvement" it's likely related. Not saying you screwed up, but it has been my experience that in old vehicles sometimes things may seem to be working just fine even though they probably shouldn't be due to corrosion, shorts, etc.

Once you upset the delicate balance that allows them to work, things pop up.

[farside847]

Ah-ha!

Tested the alternator and its dead. Now I get to think on weather I want
to convert to a one wire 90+ amp version or not. They cost quite a bit
more, but would be a hell of an improvement over the stock 37 amp.....

Hmmmmmm.

[HotRod71]

I remember you saying something about having and amp and also read on another thread that the one wire would not be the best thing if you had accessories like an amp and things. It said that the new style 3 wire 140 amp would be better. I think that thread had something to do with converting headlamps to relay also.