Proper way to tap into a wire - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**Nima** · 04-02-2006, 01:36 PM

I was working on my front disk swap which I had to have oral surgery due to broken tooth!. Now, I am off of any mild to heavy work for 2 weeks per my oral surgen!. God D.. it hurts!! (pocket and gums!!). Any way, since I can not sit still I thought do some electrical work.This might be very simple for most of you but I have not done this before. I need to tap into some wires without cutting them. Is it just like removing the cover from the original wire then twist the new one along it (solder it preferably) or is there any kind of connection or tool for it?

QKENUF4U · 04-02-2006, 02:15 PM

good luck with the tooth. guess ive been lucky cause ive had no pain from any of my oral operations (wisdom teeth,broken cheek bone etc.)
anyways, they do make a small blue connection that clamps down on both wires at the same time. it has a metal insert that cuts into the sire and feeds power to whatever wire you need power on. i dont like them personally.
you could strip the wire and solder the other wire to it then cover it with liuqid black tape or just black tape it.

**Nima** · 04-02-2006, 02:22 PM

Thanks.

Karl Hoh · 04-03-2006, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by QKENUF4U

good luck with the tooth. guess ive been lucky cause ive had no pain from any of my oral operations (wisdom teeth,broken cheek bone etc.)
anyways, they do make a small blue connection that clamps down on both wires at the same time. it has a metal insert that cuts into the sire and feeds power to whatever wire you need power on. i dont like them personally.
you could strip the wire and solder the other wire to it then cover it with liuqid black tape or just black tape it.

I feel your pain

( was off work once for 3weeks cuz of an impacted, infected wisdom ) If your wires are inside the cab, I'd use the blue suitcase connectors. Anywhere outside I'd do the solder & liquid tape.

shifty · 04-02-2006, 11:29 PM

is the broken tooth a result of the brake swap?

http://www.crowbarelectricalparts.com/Scotchloks.htm

I use those, in particular the t-taps.

sdkid · 04-03-2006, 01:12 AM

In or out, here's my method. Cut the wire. Find a butt or splice connector that is appropriate size. Cut the insulation from it. Crimp it to one wire, and slide heat shrink over it. Crimp the two remaining wires into the other end of the splice. Solder the wires into the splice. Slide the heat shrink into place and shrink it. It may be overkill, but I like it. No worries about it being a good connection. Takes a little longer, but in my opinion it worth it.

djracer · 04-03-2006, 01:45 AM

I strongly recomend the Ttaps also! The trick to them is to make sure you have the Ttap for the right gauge wire! They are color coded!

bigjimzlll · 04-03-2006, 07:15 AM

I will not use the 3m style T tap connectors. After years in the electrical field I have seen these fail many times. They actually nick/cut the wire. When you add in vibration and/or moisture you are asking for heat in the termination. The "proper" way would be to strip and twist then solder. I have done the butt connector way too. I usually end up using a termination block...because it seems there is usually more than one connection

If you use them...check them from time to time. I found one that was on my tail lights that had been there for years...it was still good, found one on the radio..only a couple of years old...and the insulation was melted.

sdmahr · 04-03-2006, 08:48 AM

THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR SOLDER !

Sorry, didn't mean to yell !

As said before, solder and shrink wrap is your best option. But, when simply tapping a wire, I take 1/4" or so of insulation off, wrap the new wire in, solder, and tape it real well. Without solder, eventually your connection will begin to degrade, leading to a failure.

I too have seen these "quick-taps" fail over and over again. This is especially true if used outside the vehicle.

Good luck !

junkyardjohn · 04-03-2006, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigjimzlll

I will not use the 3m style T tap connectors. After years in the electrical field I have seen these fail many times. They actually nick/cut the wire. When you add in vibration and/or moisture you are asking for heat in the termination. The "proper" way would be to strip and twist then solder. I have done the butt connector way too. I usually end up using a termination block...because it seems there is usually more than one connection

If you use them...check them from time to time. I found one that was on my tail lights that had been there for years...it was still good, found one on the radio..only a couple of years old...and the insulation was melted.

I CAN'T STAND USING THOSE ALSO... A FEW YEARS BACK I BOUGHT ONE OF THOSE "MICRO TORCHES", & LET ME TELL YOU THEY ARE THE CATS @SS FOR SOLDERING WIRES TOGETHER OR LIGHTING YOUR CIGAR. THEY ARE SMALL & EASY TO USE. JUST STRIP THE WIRES, TWIST EM TOGETHER, MELT A LITTLE SOLDER ON & IN THE CONNECTION, & COVER WITH SHRINK TUBING. IT'S PERMANENT.

JOHN

**dennislbrooks** · 04-03-2006, 11:31 AM

The 3M UB2A scotchlocs (if you can find them) work fine on 18 ga or smaller wire- moisture sealed. If larger, I agree it is hard to beat solder and shrink. Mechanical crimp would be my next choice if you cannot solder it, then shrink.

mblackburnjr · 04-03-2006, 01:06 PM

They also make a crimp style that resembels 3 eylet connectors riveted together. These work well and are pretty quick to install!

boundstaffpress · 04-03-2006, 01:54 PM

I cut the insulation off of the existing wire. Seperate the wires so there is a gap to slip your new wire into. With the new wire inserted into the gap, make a fork at the end of your new wire. Bring the wires back aroung the original wires and twist them together. Solder the whole mess, and cover with black tape or shrink tape.

This is how some of the newer cars splice wires. Hasn't ever failed me. Splice clips on the other hand are prone to failure.

70 longbed · 04-03-2006, 02:03 PM

I know you said you didn't want to cut, but there is a connector out there that is easy to use, solders and seals all in one and makes a water tight connection. Cut, one wire one end, two wires the other end, heat and you are done; melts the solder for the wires and the glue in the sleeve. I will look and see if I can get a manufacturer. Go out to WAYTEK wire and look around, they have alot of stuff.

**Nima** · 04-03-2006, 03:25 PM

Thanks for all the replies. I guess I go with solder.
Shifty: broken tooth was not the result of the brake. Thank God!. It was suppose to be simple procedure which turn to extraction and extraction turn to a mess!!. It was not the Dr's fault since I know I have crappy teeth. Anyways, thanks for sympathies too.

chevyboy55 · 04-03-2006, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70 longbed

I know you said you didn't want to cut, but there is a connector out there that is easy to use, solders and seals all in one and makes a water tight connection. Cut, one wire one end, two wires the other end, heat and you are done; melts the solder for the wires and the glue in the sleeve. I will look and see if I can get a manufacturer. Go out to WAYTEK wire and look around, they have alot of stuff.

Please tell me more about these!

70 longbed · 04-04-2006, 02:14 PM

Check out waytekwire.com and or electerm.com. It is probably recommended these are crimped as well (I know I would and do) but the solder and adhesive in the sleeve will hold them together.

04-02-2006, 01:36 PM	#1
Nima Blue 67 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Western WA Posts: 1,178	Proper way to tap into a wire I was working on my front disk swap which I had to have oral surgery due to broken tooth!. Now, I am off of any mild to heavy work for 2 weeks per my oral surgen!. God D.. it hurts!! (pocket and gums!!). Any way, since I can not sit still I thought do some electrical work.This might be very simple for most of you but I have not done this before. I need to tap into some wires without cutting them. Is it just like removing the cover from the original wire then twist the new one along it (solder it preferably) or is there any kind of connection or tool for it? __________________ 1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner

04-02-2006, 02:15 PM	#2
QKENUF4U Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: SUNNY WARM BIKE RIDING COTTONWOOD ARIZONA Posts: 2,097	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire good luck with the tooth. guess ive been lucky cause ive had no pain from any of my oral operations (wisdom teeth,broken cheek bone etc.) anyways, they do make a small blue connection that clamps down on both wires at the same time. it has a metal insert that cuts into the sire and feeds power to whatever wire you need power on. i dont like them personally. you could strip the wire and solder the other wire to it then cover it with liuqid black tape or just black tape it.

04-02-2006, 02:22 PM	#3
Nima Blue 67 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Western WA Posts: 1,178	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire Thanks. __________________ 1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner

04-02-2006, 11:29 PM	#5
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire is the broken tooth a result of the brake swap? http://www.crowbarelectricalparts.com/Scotchloks.htm I use those, in particular the t-taps. __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

04-03-2006, 01:12 AM	#6
sdkid Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Pierre SD Posts: 1,533	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire In or out, here's my method. Cut the wire. Find a butt or splice connector that is appropriate size. Cut the insulation from it. Crimp it to one wire, and slide heat shrink over it. Crimp the two remaining wires into the other end of the splice. Solder the wires into the splice. Slide the heat shrink into place and shrink it. It may be overkill, but I like it. No worries about it being a good connection. Takes a little longer, but in my opinion it worth it. __________________ I think the world needs a drink... Help somebody...If you can....VanZant We're not wrong, we're not sorry, and its probably gonna happen again. That's the truth about men. Tracy Byrd Member# 13924 '70 c10, 350/350 '68 c10 250/4spd '68 c10 no eng/trans fac ps/pb/ac/at (future father/sons project) '48 Chevy Loadmaster

04-03-2006, 01:45 AM	#7
djracer Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Wetumpka, Al, U.S. Posts: 8,891	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire I strongly recomend the Ttaps also! The trick to them is to make sure you have the Ttap for the right gauge wire! They are color coded! __________________ Kevin Special Thanks to All who have helped on the TRUCK! My Pass Time Show http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p...Chapter1-0.mp4 So Far my best Times are: Motor only: 6.44 1/8 @ 104.13 10.39 1/4 @ 125.83 Nitrous Times: 5.785 1/8 @ 118.65 with a 1.336 60ft 9.168 1/4 @ 142.58 with a 250 shot dead out of the hole!

04-03-2006, 07:15 AM	#8
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire I will not use the 3m style T tap connectors. After years in the electrical field I have seen these fail many times. They actually nick/cut the wire. When you add in vibration and/or moisture you are asking for heat in the termination. The "proper" way would be to strip and twist then solder. I have done the butt connector way too. I usually end up using a termination block...because it seems there is usually more than one connection If you use them...check them from time to time. I found one that was on my tail lights that had been there for years...it was still good, found one on the radio..only a couple of years old...and the insulation was melted. __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

04-03-2006, 08:48 AM	#9
sdmahr Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: South Texas....the Valley Posts: 199	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR SOLDER ! Sorry, didn't mean to yell ! As said before, solder and shrink wrap is your best option. But, when simply tapping a wire, I take 1/4" or so of insulation off, wrap the new wire in, solder, and tape it real well. Without solder, eventually your connection will begin to degrade, leading to a failure. I too have seen these "quick-taps" fail over and over again. This is especially true if used outside the vehicle. Good luck !

04-03-2006, 11:31 AM	#11
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,766	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire The 3M UB2A scotchlocs (if you can find them) work fine on 18 ga or smaller wire- moisture sealed. If larger, I agree it is hard to beat solder and shrink. Mechanical crimp would be my next choice if you cannot solder it, then shrink.

04-03-2006, 01:06 PM	#12
mblackburnjr collector of vintage rust Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: southern ohio Posts: 421	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire They also make a crimp style that resembels 3 eylet connectors riveted together. These work well and are pretty quick to install!

04-03-2006, 01:54 PM	#13
boundstaffpress Jamie Hyneman is my twin Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: La Junta, Colorado Posts: 705	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire I cut the insulation off of the existing wire. Seperate the wires so there is a gap to slip your new wire into. With the new wire inserted into the gap, make a fork at the end of your new wire. Bring the wires back aroung the original wires and twist them together. Solder the whole mess, and cover with black tape or shrink tape. This is how some of the newer cars splice wires. Hasn't ever failed me. Splice clips on the other hand are prone to failure. __________________ Justin SOLD 1967 K10 Fleetside, 283, Front and Rear Posi SOLD Color Wiring Diagrams Now in High Resolution V8 and Cab and Cab and Chassis

04-03-2006, 02:03 PM	#14
70 longbed Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Sierra Vista, AZ Posts: 490	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire I know you said you didn't want to cut, but there is a connector out there that is easy to use, solders and seals all in one and makes a water tight connection. Cut, one wire one end, two wires the other end, heat and you are done; melts the solder for the wires and the glue in the sleeve. I will look and see if I can get a manufacturer. Go out to WAYTEK wire and look around, they have alot of stuff. __________________ Keith 70 CST longbed in progress. Hoping to get it back on the road soon.

04-03-2006, 03:25 PM	#15
Nima Blue 67 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Western WA Posts: 1,178	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire Thanks for all the replies. I guess I go with solder. Shifty: broken tooth was not the result of the brake. Thank God!. It was suppose to be simple procedure which turn to extraction and extraction turn to a mess!!. It was not the Dr's fault since I know I have crappy teeth. Anyways, thanks for sympathies too. __________________ 1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner

04-04-2006, 02:14 PM	#17
70 longbed Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Sierra Vista, AZ Posts: 490	Re: Proper way to tap into a wire Check out waytekwire.com and or electerm.com. It is probably recommended these are crimped as well (I know I would and do) but the solder and adhesive in the sleeve will hold them together. __________________ Keith 70 CST longbed in progress. Hoping to get it back on the road soon.

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