Looking for PICS! Dropped

[68stepside4life]

I am looking into getting the brake conversion kit along with dropping my 68' stepside longbed.

I need to see how low i can and want to go. So pics will be very much welcomed.

I am particullary looking for either 3/5 or 4/6 drops...i THINK that is what i want. but not sure (will i scrap alot?)

[5150]

to go lower than 2 inches in the front you are going to need drop spindles. There are some guys on here that have 3 inch drop without the spindles, but I hear it's not safe.

[68stepside4life]

Thanks for the warning "YELLOW69"...but since i am looking into doing the brake conversion kit and drop suspension at the same time i was going to get a drop spindle kit. But i am wondering how low of drop spindles i need...and how low of drop front coils i need. to not be scraping all the time

[E's c10swbfleet]

i dont know what yellow is talking about, they have been putting z's in the frames for years my dad was doing it it is totaly safe

[chevy_fatman]

Holy crap E's c10swbfleet ! thats low, please share how you got that lowered.

68stepside4life, you could use a combination of dropped spindles and lowered springs to get maybe 5-6 of drop in the front, to do it cheaper you could Z the frame and chop the front crossmember, search the suspension board, there's a wealth on info there

[5150]

You'll have to get the 2.5 spindles and just cut one coil off the front coils and you'll have you a 4.5 drop. Don't waste your money on a 2 inch drop front coil.

[chevy_fatman]

You could also update you front suspension to a '73-'91 while you're at it and get the parts cheaper, I know you can get a 3 in. dropped spindle for those years, and as yellow69 said, just cut your front springs.

[see ten]

A word to the wise. Try to get out cheap, and it's going to cost you more to fix it later when you aren't happy with it. You're working on a 68 model truck that probably needs front springs installed in it anyway. We all know how these old trucks like to do that little floating thing going down the road. . If you check out www.earlyclassic.com they have stance photos that display different drops. I think they even have some longbed photos. My drop is 3.5" front and 6" rear. Up front is a 2.5 drop spindle and a 1" drop coil. Out back is a 6" drop coil and a super track bar kit. I also used the ECE extreme drop crossmember and had a new driveshaft built. I don't have problems scraping as it still isn't really that low. The rear will bottom out from time to time and could really use a C-notch. But I admit I don't baby it, if you were going to creep over speed bumps and railroad tracks it would probably never bottom out.

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by see ten

A word to the wise. Try to get out cheap, and it's going to cost you more to fix it later when you aren't happy with it. You're working on a 68 model truck that probably needs front springs installed in it anyway. We all know how these old trucks like to do that little floating thing going down the road. . If you check out www.earlyclassic.com they have stance photos that display different drops. I think they even have some longbed photos. My drop is 3.5" front and 6" rear. Up front is a 2.5 drop spindle and a 1" drop coil. Out back is a 6" drop coil and a super track bar kit. I also used the ECE extreme drop crossmember and had a new driveshaft built. I don't have problems scraping as it still isn't really that low. The rear will bottom out from time to time and could really use a C-notch. But I admit I don't baby it, if you were going to creep over speed bumps and railroad tracks it would probably never bottom out.

I still love your truck See Ten. I agree with you 100%, as the man says "you can pay me now or pay me later".. Ater a couple of years of studying these trucks and looking at pics of them I, like you, am going with a 2 1/2 in . dropped front spindle and "new" 1' dropped front spring ( after 35 years I think the springs should be renewed) and a "new" 5" rear drop spring with the Super Track Bar and shock relocators on my long box. All this with the already installed 1 1/4 " front sway bar on my truck will make it ride and handle like a new vehicle..

[68stepside4life]

Thanks guys.

I think i agree with SEE TEN. and will probably go with new disc brakes to drop and 1" coil to get a 3.5" drop FRONT and 6" in the back..hopefully i wont scrap too much..

cause im only 19, and i want a good truck..but dont have the money for it all at once.

[Hart_Rod]

This is what I've done to mine:

Bags, 2 1/2 dropped spindles, c-notch, super track bar...... Just click on the links.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387

[72highlander]

see ten, the look of your truck is perfect, i love it. what size tires/wheels are you running and what backspacing?

[see ten]

Originally Posted by 72highlander

see ten, the look of your truck is perfect, i love it. what size tires/wheels are you running and what backspacing?

Thanks man! The tire wheel specs are here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=143835&page=6

[5150]

I wonder where those pics were taken

[67chevy2wd]

Why do alot of people go 3.5" up front instead of 4". I was thinking of a 4-5"/6-7" drop, would I have any problems with this.

[see ten]

Originally Posted by 67chevy2wd

Why do alot of people go 3.5" up front instead of 4". I was thinking of a 4-5"/6-7" drop, would I have any problems with this.

I run 3.5" in the front because I thought 4" had a little to much rake going on when combined with a 6" rear. A 4"-5" would be very doable but it's gonna have a lotta rake going on. Which is fine if that's the look you're going for. I think a 6"-7" is asking a lot if you want minimal problems. First off they dont make 7" drop rear springs. Of course you can combine a drop spring with a block, problem solved. OK, new problem, now the rear end is going to bottom out. Well now you can add a C notch for that extra clearance, problem solved. Of course even with a notch you still might end up tapping the bed floor with the diff if you hit the right pothole at speed. As far as 6" in the front goes I'm sure it can be done but I don't know that you really want to. I guess you could upgrade to 73-87 parts and install 3" drop spindles and combine that with a 3" drop coil spring. My buddy has 3" drop springs in the front of his 67 and every time he jacks up the truck they fall over. If you want this much drop and expect to do any real world driving it sounds like you need to start researching some air bags. I'm sure there are people on here running monster static drops and claiming no problems, well good for them. I like how mine rides and the fact i can still pull in and out of parking lots without ripping anything off the truck. Just remember anything is possible its just a question of how much fabrication you are capable of and how much $ you are willing to spend.

[67chevy2wd]

See Ten I have always liked your pickup, I love the stance but I have different wheel combo and I am not sure how mine will sit. I should have been more specific about the drops, 4/6 or 5/7 is what I meant to say. I want my pickup to be low but not dragging frame low as I still would like a DD. I am sure in the end I will go with a 4/6 drop and if it has to much of a rake I will add some blocks in the back.

[72highlander]

thanks, see ten!! and i'd rather have a custom deluxe than a cheyenne any day. mines hugger orange and white two tone with orange highlander plaid, looking at your solid with a white top makes me think though!?

[jimmydean]

I just ordered my drop spindle disc kit and super track bar/c-notch setup. I am going bags because I couldn't decide what drop I wanted either. The bags will be nice for towing and hauling as well. I like the idea of having a stance I can change on a whim, so bags are what I'm doing.

[AusMarty]

Just my 2cents worth, Umm!! with drop spindles lower coils ect, Wouldn't it be more economical to just put air bags on and get whatever stance you want at the flick of a switch??

[see ten]

Originally Posted by AusMarty

Just my 2cents worth, Umm!! with drop spindles lower coils ect, Wouldn't it be more economical to just put air bags on and get whatever stance you want at the flick of a switch??

I really don't think so. I looked at drops a long long time before we did this truck. I considered bags and even considered a Fatman rack & pinion frontend. My drop with me and my buds doing everything but the alignment, building the driveshaft and installing the upper control arm bushings (didn't realize I needed them until I had it aligned ) set me back right at $1800. A rough estimate for air bags using top of the line parts was coming in at around $3000. I know there are guys on here who have done it for way less than that but how I wanted it done was going to cost $$$. A lot of guys still run drop spindles with bags due to it allowing you to run a higher psi for a better ride. Figure in the cost of a good management system that automaticly self levels the vehicle to adjust for load and you've dropped another chunk of change. If you want an engine driven compressor, your wallet is getting thinner by the minute here! There are guys on here whose ability to fabricate simply amazes me! Some of these people have built air bag systems for what seems like pennies. They are like Napolean Dynamite they've got Skills. Me on the other hand.....well I try to just buy parts that are built for my application most of the time (no skills ). Some of you may remember that guy who was in Pigeon Forge at the NATs in 05 with the sweet little yellow and white bagged truck everyone was having a fit over. I recall him getting in it to move it for some magazine shots and one of his bags wouldn't go up. I think this was about the point I decided I didn't want to run bags. This truck obviously had no expense spared during his build but here he was looking emberrassed cause he couldn't............ uh get it up.

[68stepside4life]

HOw much would it be to get a 'middle of the road' airbag kit..installed?(cause i have no idea how to do it)

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by 68stepside4life

HOw much would it be to get a 'middle of the road' airbag kit..installed?(cause i have no idea how to do it)

As Asa said in his first post: "Try to get out cheap, and it's going to cost you more to fix it later when you aren't happy with it."

'Bags' aren't all bad, but like they say with everything else: You get what you paid for.

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by see ten

I really don't think so. I looked at drops a long long time before we did this truck. I considered bags and even considered a Fatman rack & pinion frontend. My drop with me and my buds doing everything but the alignment, building the driveshaft and installing the upper control arm bushings (didn't realize I needed them until I had it aligned ) set me back right at $1800. A rough estimate for air bags using top of the line parts was coming in at around $3000. I know there are guys on here who have done it for way less than that but how I wanted it done was going to cost $$$. A lot of guys still run drop spindles with bags due to it allowing you to run a higher psi for a better ride. Figure in the cost of a good management system that automaticly self levels the vehicle to adjust for load and you've dropped another chunk of change. If you want an engine driven compressor, your wallet is getting thinner by the minute here! There are guys on here whose ability to fabricate simply amazes me! Some of these people have built air bag systems for what seems like pennies. They are like Napolean Dynamite they've got Skills. Me on the other hand.....well I try to just buy parts that are built for my application most of the time (no skills ). Some of you may remember that guy who was in Pigeon Forge at the NATs in 05 with the sweet little yellow and white bagged truck everyone was having a fit over. I recall him getting in it to move it for some magazine shots and one of his bags wouldn't go up. I think this was about the point I decided I didn't want to run bags. This truck obviously had no expense spared during his build but here he was looking emberrassed cause he couldn't............ uh get it up.

Me Again.. Did you have to do something with your driveshaft because of doing the suspension drop?. Were your upper control arm bushings just wore out from age or did they need redoing cause of the drop as well ? I'm kinda getting ready to do the drop thing and dont want any surprises.

[see ten]

I had a driveshaft built because the extreme drop crossmember requires the use of a one piece driveshaft. ECE recomends the use of a one piece shaft and extreme drop crossmember with anything 5" or more. In my past experiences when they recomend a part you usually end up needing it. Once again lots of guys on here are running 6" of drop in the back or more and claim no problems without the shaft conversion or the crossmember. My upper control arm bushings were replaced due to wear. I really don't know how we didn't see it when we were replacing the springs and spindles. I like my drop and how the truck drives but if I had it to do over I might do it different. A 5" drop out back combined with a 2.5" drop spindle and a stock height front spring would get things about right. I'm only saying this because I didn't want to notch the truck and in all honesty it could use it.