Brake Line Leak

[rodstored-72]

well guys i have another question...

i ran all new brake lines for my '72 project & i have rear disc brakes from cpp & i am using their prop valve as well. i ran the rear brake line to the prop valve & i am unable to get the connection to stop leaking!!! i have cut & re-flared it to try to fix it & still no fix i was wondering if any of you guys have had a similar problem with hard lines & what you might have done to fix it! i am not a great bender or flarer (??) but i have done some other lines & those are fine. any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!

thanks!!
rodstored-72

[LockDoc]

Restored-72,

The seat for the flare inside the prop valve may have a nick or crack in it. Also I think there are a couple of different length tube nuts so make sure you are not using a short one where you may need a long one. Just some ideas.....

LockDoc

[LockDoc]

Quick question, Are you using a double flaring tool?

LockDoc

[rodstored-72]

lockdoc,
thanks! i will check into that i am not sure about the nut though i am using the same color that i used before & it was working fine, although cpp sent me out a new one (prop valve) because my orig. was bad from first purchase. can you tell me how i find a longer nut that matches the threads??
yes i did use a dbl. flare tool (harbor frieght) it appears to be a good flare (to me??) thanks again!

rodstored-72

[LockDoc]

Restored-72

Sorry for the delay in answering. I had to go get the rest of the parts I bought today. I think any auto parts store would have the tube nuts for brake lines. The NAPA store near me has them. If you go to an auto parts store look at the brake lines, some of them should have a short tube nut on one end and a long one on the other. I am including a small photo of the prop valve with the ports numbered. Let me know which one you are having trouble with and if it looks any deeper than any of the other ports. (from the top of the hole to the flare seat)

LockDoc

[OhioDan]

Had the same problem at the "T" fitting for the rear brakes. Don't remember how many times I redid the flare or the complete line. Come to find out, I wasn't tightening it up enough. Maybe that's your problem? Just guessing.

[rodstored-72]

lockdoc,
it is the #4 port it seems to just pour out as if the seal of the line is not touching??? i appreciate all the time & effort!! the fitting that i am using is a light green color.

ohiodan,
i thought that as well & so i loosened it out & then put it back in & tightened it as much as i could. it kinda feels like the nut hits the end of the threads before it gets seated???

thanks again for all the helpfull info. i am going to try to take another whack at it tonight!!

rodstrored-72

[LockDoc]

I would try a longer tube nut. Take one of your older ones with you for comparison.
You could take a scrap piece of line, three or four inches long, put a tube nut on it and flare it, tighten it up in that port and wiggle or twist the piece of tube to see if it is loose or not.

LockDoc

[rodstored-72]

lockdoc,
i never thought of that i will try tonight. thanks! yea i took a spair nut of the same size to napa yesterday & he said that it is metric & they don't carry metric sizes for hard lines. i am stuck now cuz i just want to get it to seal right & i am unable to figure out how to do it??? i would take it to a repair place to have it done but i really don't want to pay the $75 towing fee that comes along with doing that!

thanks again for the help!

rodstored-72

[LockDoc]

Let us know what happens.....

Another thing you might check if you didn't have this problem with the first one you installed is to check and see if the threads are tapped down into the #4 hole as far as the other ports on this prop valve.

LockDoc

[Fastfun]

I had the same problem with my brake system that I purchased from CCP, they replaced the prop valve (leaking at #4) and after I received the new one I did't have any problems. When you tighten up the fitting hold on to the big nut so it won't turn.