6 Lug Disc Brake Swap Question

[68fleetsidec20]

So I am doing a disc brake swap on a 67 1/2 ton using 88 spindles, rotors and calipers and a pair of 80's 3/4 ton lower A arms as outlined in one of the FAQ's. However I have ran into some large problems and I would like to know what others have done to fix these problems.

First of all the tie rod ends on the new spindles bolt from the bottom up on the 88+ spindles, unlike the 87 and previous spindles which have the tie rod bolt from the top down. This moves the tie rod down about 2" and it looks like bump steer may become a big issue. Is everyone else just ignoring this? or is it really not that bad?

Second of all the 88+ spindles are about an 1" taller which changes the angle of the upper A arms to more horizontal which leads to positive camber, so much positive camber that even after I removed all the alignment shims I still have a few degrees of positive camber. What am I misssing here? you guys don't drive your trucks like this do you? I imagine that the results may not be as bad with a lowered truck as the upper A arms will now be sloping downwards and negative camber will be increased. (As well as negative camber gains under bump like GM should have designed it) But I'm not looking to lower my truck right or maybe ever so my only options, as I see it, are to machine the tapered spacers between the crossshafts and the frame to try to gain an 1/8" or maybe even the cross shafts themselves if needed.

What do you guys think? any sugestions?

[GMC69mnypit]

Yeah, had the same problems and concerns as you.

I: used the tie rod ends going up through the bottom of the spindle, not sexy looking, but functional, and I ended up cutting a coil off the front springs to address the camber issue. Not a fan of lowered trucks, but having the alignment to spec was more important to me. Machined spaces for the crossbars sounds good in concept, if done correctly I don't see why it wouldn't work in theory. I'd want to make double sure I used the correct material and had the locating "tits" --Having them move on you would be a bad day. Sounds like you've put alot more thought into this than I had at this point, so I'm sure you've thought of that.

I've got around 3500 miles on this setup, no major gripes. I wish, of course, that the spindles would allow for factory suspension geometry, but overall I'm happy with it.

Might contract board member 68jimmy if he hasn't already chimed in, he just recently completed this swap too...

Best of luck,
Brandon

[68jimmy]

I recently finished up my install with similar components as well. I ran into the same issues as you have described with the upside down tie and no castle nut/cotter pin (which was a pain in the a$$ to get torqued) setup. With my truck lowered in the front by almost 4" I did not have any issues with the camber as the alignment shop set it up at the factory settings for a 68 1/2 ton.
I don't drive mine everyday but it feels solid and handles fine and stop so much better!

If I were you I would cut a coil off the springs and see how it feels when you drive it. And if it doesn't feel right perhaps take the route you described...

good luck...

donovan