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04-25-2007, 09:02 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Just outside Durham, NC
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lift kit advice
Finally looking into a 4" (all spring) lift kit, and I am looking for some advice, first
-What is the difference between the 52" and 56" rear springs? -Am I better off with the adjustable drag link or a new raised steering arm (hated getting that thing off when I put my new axle in...dreading doing it again) -I am not hearing the best news about rough/tuff country kits, and for the same price superlift seems about comparable, how is the ride/overall satisfaction? -Am I better off getting the steering stabilzer setup included in the kit? (looking to put 35's under the truck).
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1969 SS 350 Camaro Sold 2008 1970 3/4T K20, stock height with 33's, 250 I6, 3 on the tree, and locked front and rear 4.10's 1980 Chevy Malibu 2 dr Sold 2007 1993 Olds. Cutlass Ciera Wagon Traded 2006 2003 Saturn L200 w/5pd. D/D My list spans 5 decades with One common thread.....GM! |
04-25-2007, 09:29 AM | #2 |
K5Camper
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Pueblo, CO
Posts: 1,513
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Re: lift kit advice
you better be looking at kits for the 67-72 trucks because your 52" vs 56" question is usually about the kits for 73-87 trucks. the 56" springs came on the rear of 73-87 3/4 ton and 1 tons whereas the 52" springs were on the rear of 1/2 tons.
I'm by no means a 67-72 expert but I'm not sure if the rear spring length was the same from the 67-72 trucks to the 73-87's. I do know the front springs are shorter on the 67-72's vs the newer trucks. Make sure the kit you are going after is not for the 73-87's.
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Rob Z. 1975 K5 350/465/205/D44/12b 4" lift on 35's- RIP 1991 K5 8.1L/NV4500/241/D44/14b FWC Camper |
04-25-2007, 09:37 AM | #3 |
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Location: Just outside Durham, NC
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Re: lift kit advice
I went to 4wheelparts.com, I had the information down as 1970 3/4t.....I will double check though.....anybody got info. on the other questions?
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1969 SS 350 Camaro Sold 2008 1970 3/4T K20, stock height with 33's, 250 I6, 3 on the tree, and locked front and rear 4.10's 1980 Chevy Malibu 2 dr Sold 2007 1993 Olds. Cutlass Ciera Wagon Traded 2006 2003 Saturn L200 w/5pd. D/D My list spans 5 decades with One common thread.....GM! |
04-25-2007, 10:48 AM | #4 |
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Location: Modesto, CA
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Re: lift kit advice
Is this lift for that K20 you list in your signature?
Measure what you have on there now. From eye to eye on the current spring and buy the same one. I am happy with my Superlift springs, the more leafs the better the ride will be and thoes teflon friction pads are suppose to help the ride also..
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1972 K5 MPFI454/Sm465/Np205/D60/14FFd/Re-Centerd H1s w/Swamper Iroks Last edited by Burt4x4; 04-25-2007 at 10:52 AM. |
04-25-2007, 10:54 AM | #5 | |
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Location: Central PA
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Re: lift kit advice
Quote:
Lots of guys like the tuff country, it's a 3/4 ton truck so you are gonna be stiff unless you go with the expensive Skyjacker lifts (so i've heard) You should get a dropped pitman arm or raised steering arm, i agree to it being a PITA to remove the steering arm but maybe it will be easier since you have had it removed before. I think that you will need an adjustable draglink as well if you don't have one now. You can always add a steering stabilizer later but with 35" it might not hurt to buy it now.
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The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer" |
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04-25-2007, 11:15 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Star Valley, WY
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Re: lift kit advice
Chooseing which spring pack to use will depend on your useage. I've ran Superlift's superride 2.5" and Tough Country's EZ ride 2" in my '71 long box. Both comparable competitors however my current 2" EZ rides a little smoother. It performs well on all terrain except the roughest where the nose dips on landings and big whoops under big block wieght, and a half cord of wood is all the rear can handle. The Super handled everything off road well, but rattles the fillings out of my head on the street and washboard. I did not experience this as much with the longer springs in my '79. I use Bilstien light duty monotube gas shocks in all comparisons to keep the suspension testing even.
If I was to keep the stock suspension set up I would run the EZ ride, but add an airbag out back for towing and hauling assistance. I have bigger suspension plans in the works though that I'm looking forward to. Hope i was able to help you a little. Good Luck -steve
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Steve 1971 GMC Longbox. Full Roller Stroker 489 w/ FiTech EFI, Chris Straub Cam/NV4500/205/D60/14B w. Grizzly Locker and 4.11's. 2" Lift on 33's |
04-25-2007, 02:12 PM | #7 |
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Re: lift kit advice
I want the best of both worlds: Rigid enough to haul weight without bottoming out, and soft enough to be enjoying to ride in around town. The problem is, I don't think it is acheivable with a 52" spring.
I had a Rough Country in my 71 Blazer I used to own. I bought it because they have the reputation for being able to haul weight. I thought the ride was rather rough. I have a freind who is a small contractor. He had a Tuff Country lift put in his pickup, and he would bottom out whenever he hauled his enclosed job trailer. Said the ride was fine when he was empty. There was a guy in town that had a 6" Skyjacker lift in his pickup. He loved it. But, he only drove it empty around town or 4 wheelin. I would love to hear what other's have to say. I am still in search of the perfect lift.
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1972 Chevy LWB K10 Custom/Deluxe Earth first! We'll log the other planet's later. |
04-25-2007, 02:48 PM | #8 |
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Location: Central PA
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Re: lift kit advice
do the soft springs and air bag helpers as stated above. We used them on the farm for the spray truck and they are nice...
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The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer" |
04-26-2007, 12:12 AM | #9 |
Tool Addiction=Money Shortage
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Posts: 233
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Re: lift kit advice
I have a rancho 4" w/ rear blocks. The front springs are pretty stiff and I don't like the blocks.
When i converted to power steering I made my own shorter drag link. Don't do what I did. You should get a full spring kit, or shackle flip.
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1967 K20 400TBI SM465/NP205 posi front, Detroit locker 4.56 rear Last edited by ND_guy; 04-26-2007 at 07:58 AM. |
04-26-2007, 10:43 AM | #10 |
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Location: Star Valley, WY
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Re: lift kit advice
When looking for 4" or more of lift I agree to do a shackle flip and use a stock spring pack if its not saging. I also stay away from blocks. Under power they allow too much leverage on the rear end leading to axle wrap. -steve
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Steve 1971 GMC Longbox. Full Roller Stroker 489 w/ FiTech EFI, Chris Straub Cam/NV4500/205/D60/14B w. Grizzly Locker and 4.11's. 2" Lift on 33's |
04-26-2007, 11:01 AM | #11 |
K5Camper
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Pueblo, CO
Posts: 1,513
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Re: lift kit advice
I'd agree with using a shackle flip out back. you end up usng the same spring (again make sure it's not worn out/sagging) so the load capacity is the same, but the ride gets soo much better. It's a much softer ride on mine than before I did it. My only unknown is heavy hauling since mine is a K5. Most I've had in there is camping gear/coolers and some wood to burn. I don't remember it sagging under what load I had on it.
Using a shackle flip shouldn't hurt the load carrying ability, but I can see it could squat a little more since the spring would flatten out easier under a heavy load of a full bed of wood or other matieral. Like others, air assist bags might be the best way to get the load capacity back. Towing/hauling need heavier springs, where as when we want a comfy ride we need soft springs. You can't get around the two facts. You best bet is a compremise with soft springs for everyday comfort and some air bags to stiffen up the rear when it's loaded.
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Rob Z. 1975 K5 350/465/205/D44/12b 4" lift on 35's- RIP 1991 K5 8.1L/NV4500/241/D44/14b FWC Camper |
04-26-2007, 03:12 PM | #12 | |
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Re: lift kit advice
Quote:
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Steve 1971 GMC Longbox. Full Roller Stroker 489 w/ FiTech EFI, Chris Straub Cam/NV4500/205/D60/14B w. Grizzly Locker and 4.11's. 2" Lift on 33's |
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04-26-2007, 08:49 PM | #13 |
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Location: PA
Posts: 1,411
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Re: lift kit advice
Be careful what kit you buy from TuffCountry. They do make at least two different 'stiffness' springpacks. I bought the EZ Ride 4" for my K20 and I'm very happy with it. The best thing (in my opinion) about TuffCountry suspensions is that they have nailed the problem that most other companies have with the height balance front to rear on the 67-72 trucks. My truck sits perfectly level front to back. None of that 'nose up in the air' look that most other lift kits give you. I'm not knocking that look, its just not what I wanted for my truck.
Whatever you do, NEVER, EVER, NEVER order your TuffCountry kit through J.C. youknowwho!! What a friekin' mess they made out my order. And it only took them 4 months to get the wrong kit to me, TWICE!!! Thank God I was able to call TuffCountry directly and get the whole mess straightened out. TuffCountry was very good to do business with. 72longbed Last edited by 72longbed; 04-26-2007 at 08:50 PM. |
04-30-2007, 08:48 PM | #14 |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: cocoa, fl
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Re: lift kit advice
I was just looking at lift kit's myself and found rear 4" superlift springs for $142.00. Just thought it was odd that that you can buy a kit with front springs and rear block and add these springs cheaper then you can buy a kit with front and rear springs. www.performancecenter.com
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