Its driving me NUTS!

[redrum]

I've not posted much, but like to read and see pics of some of you guys projects. Good stuff.

Now, I have to cry uncle!
The problem is my starter. Or it may be my starter. Or it could be something else.
For around three years now at times when the key is turned the starter wont crank. The radio dims slightly and makes a staticy click. If I go out and use a screwdriver and jump from the hot wire on the starter to the connection to energize the solenoid it works EVERY time ( ). So, getting tired of that I installed a switch with the power coming from the hot on the alt. to the solenoid. Exact same result. So I thought and replaced the eye loop at the end of the energizer wire. Same old. Except now its worse. Even more eratic than before. Not sure that its directly related. Thing is it doesn't always do it.

Sooo... any thoughts on it. Or random musings or just wild a$$ guesses?

Please help! Thank You.

[70 shorty]

Sounds to me like the solenoid on the starter is bad.

[84_4x4]

Originally Posted by 70 shorty

Sounds to me like the solenoid on the starter is bad.

exactly my thoughts if it was the starter itself it wouldn't have started even after jumping it

[piecesparts]

Have you checked the "Staticy click" box? It might be low on that stuff.

[redrum]

Peicesparts, if you had read the thread correctly you would have seen that it MAKES staticy clicks! I'm thick with the darn things.

So, a solenoid huh. I guess it could be but it was replaced a couple years ago for just this gremlin. Wouldn't be the first bad part ever sold I guess. Its as easy to try as anything and the price wont break me.
I thought that the application of a Two gauge energizer wire might do it.

[Geno]

Now first off, I must have missed the make and year of your truck but anyways on my 68' I had the same problem with mine and it was due to a bad wire from the starter to the battery, second my solenoid casing kelt touching the starter housing thus it kept grounding out. Take a look and make sure the two are touching.

[nvrforgotten52]

could be a bad battery cable... or the solenoid... a corroded battery cable will make it just click every once in a while but start right up other times.

[nvrforgotten52]

thats if your battery is good though.. check that first

[Geno]

Wow. I guess I should proof read my replies before I send them. Make sure the two housings are NOT touching. And I agree. A bad battery, bad cables, starter wires should also be checked. Don't be surprised though if it needs to be replaced. I've gone through 4 aftermarket "lifetime warranty" ones in the past 4 years.

[redrum]

Thanks for the replies and ideas. Guess I got some underhood work to do today.

[Olden Days]

Originally Posted by redrum

If I go out and use a screwdriver and jump from the hot wire on the starter to the connection to energize the solenoid it works EVERY time

That right there tells you the solenoid is working. It also says your big cables are making good enough contact and your battery has enough power.
what size wire and switch did you run for your temporary solution off the alt? do you have any of those crimp on splices in the wire from ign to starter? does this happen only after the the motor has been driven and warmed up?

edit: I could see one senerio where the solenoid could be bad and that is if one of the posts are loose and not making good contact until you put pressure on it with the screw driver. but I doubt it since you said you replaced solenoid once arleady and did not cure it.

[piecesparts]

I DID read the thing right. I meant that your STICKY CLICK box may need to be refilled and you will have to go around now and pick the dang things up from the floor.

[Lated]

I've had a similar problem with my truck. Started fine in the morning but when I got in to go home from work it wouldn't start. I replaced the starter and it fired right up and I drove it home. The next morning same thing, it wouldn't start. I had a friend try to start it while I had the hood up and noticed a hissing sound coming from the battery. My dad told me the only thing that would make the battery hiss when the key was turned was a short to ground. I didn't know if the ground was in the hot wire to the ignition switch or actually the switch itself and I didn't have the money for a new ignition switch (I spent it all on the starter that I didn't need). I ended up wiring a switch between the terminal on the fender next to the battery and the starter solenoid. For the first day the switch was under the hood but I quickly realized it wasn't the most convenient place for it after I stalled my truck at a stop light and had to get out and pop the hood to get it started again. I relocated the switch into the cab. I haven't gotten around to taking the time to figure out where the short was and it's worked fine for almost a year now. Even though the switch cranks the motor the key still has to be turned on for the engine to continue to run so theft isn't really a worry. If I were you I would look for a wire that is shorting out or try replacing the ignition switch. If you go the add-a-switch route don't forget to unhook the wire coming from the ignition switch at the starter or there could still be a short. I suppose I ought to try talking my wife into okaying the purchase of a new ignition switch. Hope this helps.

[70C10Toejam]

"Sticky-click" fluid sounds like the "magic blue smoke" in electronics...once you release the "magic blue smoke" it don't work no more.

[O'l Buck]

Mine does that every couple of years or so, every time it has been oil built up between the starter and the block weakening the ground. But if yours cranks jumping the S terminal to the BAT terminal, that is likely not your problem. Mine had a problem several years ago with the 10ga wire off of the pos battery cable getting a bad connection and not sending enough power to energize the solonoid.

[redrum]

Olden Days , sounds like you've dealt with this before. You hit the nail right on the head.
Not sure of the gauge wire for the jumper switch but it is smaller than the energize from the fuse block. Yes on the crimp connectors and yes when it warms up.

Funny thing, I was checking connections by the battery and one crimp connector (big yellow one) had corrosion in it so that got replaced. Then there is a slim black wire there on the pos side that I'd not really ever looked at before.
Looked like a connection, but pulled it open and lo-and-behold a fuse! Short little sucker. it was broken and burnt. So replaced that and- VIOLA- the amp gauge that has NEVER worked in 19 years comes to life!

We will see, maybe that yellow crimp job was the culprit as the prob has not resurfaced ...yet.

Thanks again for your time and ideas, all.

[Shyguy]

[I][/II don't know if this would help, but it does on old tractors, run a ground wire from the battery to one of the bolts that holds the starter on.

Danny - Semo]

[Olden Days]

Glad your on the right track now. Those crimp on splices are very prone to failure when they get heated up with the eng heat. especially ones that need a lot of draw. plus over time your wires build up a resistance in them. Your starter needs more draw when everything is hot too, so if your crimp ons get too much resistance in them (from heat and lousy connection) they cant suppy enough current to energize your solenoid. When it cools down the crimp ons make a good enough connection again and much of the resistance goes out of the wire, so it will start again. I would suggest replacing the wire from your ign switch to your solenoid with a new one (12 or 10 gauge) with no splices and solder the the ends on instead of crimping only.

By the way with a name like redrum I'll bet you were a fan of "The Shining"

[redrum]

Well when your right your right Golden Days. You know, I've never really trusted crimp connectors. They are just the easiest thing at the time, don't you know. That is a real good explaination about those I'd never thought of.
As for the movie, its OK. I just like it when the little kid wakes his mom yelling REDRUM,REDRUM!