Couple of problems

[semperfidoordie]

So I've posted before but haven't really gotten anything resolved yet. I have a 72 C-10 with the typical front disc and rear drum brakes. I have very minimal stopping power at all I've tried bleeding the brakes, I've made sure that the lines aren't messed up and I've even done the dummy check to make sure there is brake fluid in the master cylinder. I was wondering because the springs and what not are all rusted if that was the problem or if it could be something else. I'm not sure what else to look for. I'm new at this whole thing so sorry if it's a dumb question.

Also my tranny is screwy. It's a TH350 well whenever I put it in Drive it starts out in third and drives like crap. So I normally have to put it in L1, then L2 then D. So basically manually shifting from 1st to 2nd to 3rd. Didn't know why it's doing that. I've checked the line to the tranny, and the governor and can't think of anything else...a friend had said to check the vacuum line but I'm not really sure how to do that. Any advice...??? sorry if this is all dumb newbie stuff but well...i'm a newbie haha thanks for any help. If you wanted to call to explain it better or had the time to that would be appreciated too. PM me if you would over the phone walk me through something. The problem is I have to get it registered and plated before we deploy in September and being in the Marine Corps and working crazy hours sure is a pain with fixing a truck up a little. So that is my major push to get things done. Thanks again

Tony

[Texasbigblock]

if you think the drums are the problem try adjusting the little adjuster on the back to tighten them up a little and see what happens. Also, im not much of a tranny mechanic but i do know that the vacuum line hooked to the modulator on the side of the tranny would not cause it to start in 3rd. When that line comes unhooked it usually just wont get out of 1st. Sorry i couldnt help you more.

God Bless, and thanks for serving us!

[GREASEMONKEY72]

if all the springs in the rums are all rusty i would just replace them all so theres no chance of them breaking or anything and with the tranny the vacum just wouldnt let it get out of first but so you know the vacum line goes from the can on the side of the tranny to a port on the back of the intake behind the carb, if its not downt shifting try checking the kickdown cable that hooks up under the throttle cable but other than i have no idea but others will chime in with more info


i wish you the best of luck with your deployment and i hope you come back safe and sound

[woodrow59]

semperfidoordie .........hang on a little bit. These people here will get you an answer.

[Sport/Truck]

Did you check your brake booster? Does it feel soft with your foot or real hard?
+1 on the kick down cable for the tranny.
s/t

[semperfidoordie]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

Did you check your brake booster? Does it feel soft with your foot or real hard?
+1 on the kick down cable for the tranny.
s/t

when I push on the brakes it feels mushy and it will only bring me to a very elongated slow stop if i have my foot jammed into the floor or if I put her in neutral...and for back home and the country dirt roads where no one goes over 25 that would be fine but for living in the big cess pool that is CA, where no one goes under 85 it's not gonna work haha..hope that'll shed a little more light about the brakes again thanks for the input and any further input

[Longhorn Man]

kick down cable wouldn't do it.
I wonder if it is a performance buiolt tranny... with a manual valve body maybe?

[GREASEMONKEY72]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

kick down cable wouldn't do it.
I wonder if it is a performance buiolt tranny... with a manual valve body maybe?

i didnt think about the valve body, it could be

[semperfidoordie]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

kick down cable wouldn't do it.
I wonder if it is a performance buiolt tranny... with a manual valve body maybe?

I actually had a friend suggest the same thing. He said to check and see if it was a manual valve body but to be 100% honest I don't know where the heck to look for the thing. As for all that performance built tranny stuff here's what's going on. I start in L1...go till about 20 or 25 and she wants to shift...so then I go to L2 till about 35 and she's ready to shift then into drive where she shifts and drives normally..but you have to do it in that order...if you just throw it in drive she sits in first and won't budge...(my apologizies for the claim earlier of it being third) don't know if that helps anyone make any more out of my situation but I hope so

[AR15DEFENSE]

how bout vacuum to the modulator? I had a leak at the rubber line from pipe to modulator and it would not shift itself into 1st when I came to a stop

[kbs71]

Lets start with the brakes first. See if your booster is working. You can do this by applying a firm pressure to the brake pedal with the engine OFF. While you have pressure applied to the pedal start the truck. The pedel should go down several inches. If it does, your booster is good. If it doesn't you need a booster.
Let's say the booster is good. Second, get some penetrating oil and spray down all the hardware in the drums (after you remove the drums & make sure you don't get any on the shoes). Then adjust the adjuster screws (the thing thats looks like a rod with a bunch of teeth on it at the top of the brake shoes). With the drums on, you do this from the inside of the dust plate. There should be either a slot or a little rectangular rubber boot there. If the rubber is there, use a screw driver to pry it off. You will be able to see the "teeth" of the adjuster thru the slot. adjust it by rotating the teeth (they should only go one way) till the drums just start to drag. reinstall the rubber boot if you took one off. If there isn't one there it's no big deal.
Next bleed the brakes. You will probably need to use a c-clamp or some other drvice to hold the pin on the fwd end of your proportioning valve in (thats the valve thats attached to the bracket thats attached to your master cylinder. There should be a couple of short brake lines goint from the MC to the valve, then on to the brakes). Then bleed the back right brake till you get clean fluid coming out. Then go to your back left, right front then left front. Make sure and keep an eye out on the fluid level of the Master cylinder while you do this. Don't run the reservior dry, or you'll be bleed ing your master cylinder and a whole lot more brake bleeding. Remove the clamp from the proportioning valve.
After doing all that try your brakes and see how they work.

As for you tranny. check and see if the modulating valve is blown. the easiest way is to remove it (Its a round cylinder at the back of the passangers side of the transmission. The vacume line hooks up to it). Turn it nipple side down and see if any transmission fluid comes out. If it does the valve diaphram is shot and you need a new one. If it's good reinstall it and make sure your getting vacume to it. Disconnect the line from the modulating valve and start the engine. Put your finger over the end of the rubber hose or hard line which ever is still going up to the intake manafold and see if its pulling a vacume. If it is good. If it isn't find out why. Either you have a ruptured rubber line or it isn't hooked up right. it should be "T"ed off from the same line that goes to your distributors vacume advance. You may also want to make sure the hard line isnt kinked or cracked also.
You also need to make sure your kick down cable is hooked up and adjusted right. Heres one link to adjusting the kick down cable http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...kickdown+cable. You can also check the search function and the FAQ sections.
After youve done all this lets us know if it helped or not. Happy wrenching.