Drilled and slotted rotors

[Ackattack]

I'm on the fence as to whether or not to get drilled and slotted rotors. For the rear I can get them for about $200, or I can get plain ones for about $80. I know that basically there is no performance advantage to them, but they add a little bling. I mean the truck is going to be primarily a show truck, and with 20" wheels, the rotors will be pretty visible. So what do you all think.

[Ole Blue 68]

I voted for Plain Jane but whichever you choose to go with, make sure they're dipped if you're planning on showing the truck. You don't want some rusty a$$ rotors showing behind your dubs.

[SkylineNXS]

Depending on how fast ur goin, there should be some performance enhancments in teh drilled and slotted rotors. During hard braking they will better disperse the heat reducing break fade adn shortening stopping distance....just my opinion, plus they look sweet, lol...


BRAD

[Frizzle Fry]

I picked up the matching front/rear summit brand drilled/slotted rotors. When I was buying the caprice rears I figured I might as well make the front match. Haven't installed them yet... I think they fit the look with big wheels, but are definitely more show than go.

[betonj97]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

I'm on the fence as to whether or not to get drilled and slotted rotors. For the rear I can get them for about $200, or I can get plain ones for about $80. I know that basically there is no performance advantage to them, but they add a little bling. I mean the truck is going to be primarily a show truck, and with 20" wheels, the rotors will be pretty visible. So what do you all think.

Upgraded brakes is never a bad thing......I purchased rotors from www.rotorspros.com and I spoke to Richard. Drop him an email and let him know Jose from Sacramento recommended you to him. He can get them cut to your choice. slotted and drilled, or slotted, or just drilled. They are zinc plated so you wont have rust issues. I have purchased all my rotors from him and have never had a problem, these things are awesome!
As far as performance, in the rain I have noticed a difference, they grab better. All and all you are giving your rotors longer life because the heat/gasses that build up are released through the drilled holes.

Here is a quick pic of just the front, couldn't get a pic of the rear but same idea.

[SCOTI]

Of those posting that have drilled/slotted rotors, how many have done back-to-back comparison testing to verify their claims of better performance? Reduced heat? Longer rotor life?

I personally haven't done any testing so I can't say. I know drilled/slotted rotors are all the rage but high end cars are proving that the 'benefits' that have been claimed were not necessarily true.

There are lots of performance cars that have been swapping back to solid rotors because of stress cracks from the cross drilling. Only a few OE manufacturers have 'drilled' rotors that are actually made w/the holes in them vs. drilling them after manufacture.

My vote is use them if you want the look, but don't believe all the hype until you can test them for yourself. I'll stick w/up-graded larger-diameter solid (un-drilled/un-slotted) rotors w/better brake-pads for my rides.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Of those posting that have drilled/slotted rotors, how many have done back-to-back comparison testing to verify their claims of better performance? Reduced heat? Longer rotor life?

I personally haven't done any testing so I can't say. I know drilled/slotted rotors are all the rage but high end cars are proving that the 'benefits' that have been claimed were not necessarily true.

There are lots of performance cars that have been swapping back to solid rotors because of stress cracks from the cross drilling. Only a few OE manufacturers have 'drilled' rotors that are actually made w/the holes in them vs. drilling them after manufacture.

My vote is use them if you want the look, but don't believe all the hype until you can test them for yourself. I'll stick w/up-graded larger-diameter solid (un-drilled/un-slotted) rotors w/better brake-pads for my rides.

from what I've read there isn't a performance advantage unless maybe if you're running on a road course. Otherwise they actually reduce the life the pads. But they do look cool.

I'm ready to buy the rear rotors, but I'm holding out on buying fronts, hoping that an afordable big brake kit comes out (thread in the suspension forum). So we'll see.

[jamis]

We tested them on police cruisers and they didn’t make a difference. In fact of all the venders that have claimed their stuff is better we have not found anything better then the OEM rotors and the matching ceramic pads.
There may be a specific advantage on some race courses and conditions but not on the street and not every aplication.

[67mater]

I'd stay clear of the drilled rotors as they do nothing but give you more potential for cracks. I went to slotted rotors on my honda and noticed no difference, except less fade under heaving braking.

[SkylineNXS]

Less fade under heavy braking is always a good thing, especially with a generally heavier truck. Brake fade can sometimes determine if ull crash or if ull stay clear. Of course its probably not enough that its worth the extra 120 bucks...meh, o well...

BRAD

[panhandler62]

For your purposes -- I voted for the slots because they look cool. You said it's for show so looks would seem to be the principal issue to me.

[72 cheyenne pdx]

I don't know anything about brakes, except the obvious as they are intended to slow/stop a vehicle. I believe all the shows I have seen that upgraded the brakes, went with slotted and/or drilled rotors plus upgraded to a 4-piston/6-piston caliper. I think it's the better clamping that will make you slow/stop faster than the rotor itself. I believe the slotted/drilled rotors were only designed to dissapate the heat better.

Then again, what do I know?

Good luck with your choice.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SkylineNXS

Less fade under heavy braking is always a good thing, especially with a generally heavier truck. Brake fade can sometimes determine if ull crash or if ull stay clear. Of course its probably not enough that its worth the extra 120 bucks...meh, o well...

Define heavy braking. I doubt one would see the benefits of drilled/slotted rotors in a single panic stop which is what 90% of our trucks will experience. This is where ABS, larger diameter rotors, larger/stiffer calipers, & better pads come into play.

If it's a heavy truck hauling a trailer on a decline, I'd guess you won't generate enough airflow over the rotors drilled holes to affect cooling significantly. But, with the material removed from the rotors surface, there's not as much friction material in contact & that friction aids stopping.

If you replace the 12" x 1.25" HD truck rotor w/another that's been drilled/slotted & everything else remains constant, the truck might look better (purely subjective) . . .... but it prob won't stop any better.

This being said, it's your truck.... do whatever works for ya' .

[N2TRUX]

The reality is that drilled and/or slotted rotors are just for looks on our trucks, nothing more. Just to clear up some myths, cross drilling is designed to help cool the rotor. Slotting is to help remove trapped gas from under the pad. If you do this to a stock size rotor, you might have a cooler rotor, and less fade due to the slots removing trapped gas, but you also have less surface area. That means that the gains are going to be minimal.


Does it look cool? Yes! Will I do it to mine? Well of course.

One thing to consider is drilled rotors will cause a brake lathe to chatter if it uses a conventional cutting bit that has a pointed tip. If the cutting bit has a rounded tip, the lathe has less potential to chatter. Because of the problems with bit chatter, some shops WILL NOT turn drilled rotors.

While it doesn't look as cool by itself, slotted rotors are much more effective. They remove the trapped gas allowing the pad to make full contact with the rotor. Since the slots are normally not cut clear through, there is little chance that the slots will cause stress cracks.

[68 P.O.S.]

I've not heard of any valuable performance for daily driving with drilled/slotted rotors either. Since it's mostly for show, why wouldn't you??? Has anyone seen that they came out with drilled drums as well. I wonder if those will have any real affect on daily driving?

[wibilly]

why would you spend all that money on 20"rims and rubber without thinking twice about it and then question an extra $120 upgrading the brakes and also getting the look you want?

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by wibilly

why would you spend all that money on 20"rims and rubber without thinking twice about it and then question an extra $120 upgrading the brakes and also getting the look you want?

You're right, I'm not really concerned about the price that much. I was just wondering what people's opinions of them were. No since of spending extra dough if people don't like them. Since the "voting" is about 50/50, I think I'll go ahead and get them.

[custom72c20]

If I was you, I wouldn't cross drill and slot my rotors. I would just cross drill them because with both, you will make the rotor weaker and if you are not going to be doing any extreme braking such as in racing, so it really isn't needed. If you are going for the look, just do one or the other, so you lower the risk of the rotor cracking. It was originally only used on racing and high performance applications to allow gasses between the rotor and pad to escape due to the friction and help them with cooling. I know this because my dad used to cross drill and gas slot rotors for a living. I still have all the patterns he made (around 350).

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by custom72c20

....It was originally only used on racing and high performance applications to allow gasses between the rotor and pad to escape due to the friction and help them with cooling. I know this because my dad used to cross drill and gas slot rotors for a living. I still have all the patterns he made (around 350).

To get a time-frame 'trend' on this modification, how long ago was 'used to'?

[custom72c20]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

To get a time-frame 'trend' on this modification, how long ago was 'used to'?

My dad started doing it in the early 80's for a man named Dick Troutman who built porsche race cars and built Jim Hall's Chaparral race car. My dad did it all the way up until he passed away in 2002.

[jorgensensc]

Little info I recieved recently. We are upgrading to stainless lines, EBC YellowStuff brake Pads and EBC slotted and DIMPLED rotors (great motorcycle pads that now make automobile pads) For our Trailblazer SS. After talking with EBC they stated they are going to dimpled rotors instead of drilled through because of the stress crack issue. They then told me it was meerly asthetics at that point since the dimples were acting the same as the slots (since they are not drilled all the way through). My personal opinion is that if it is a show truck then go all the way drilled and slotted, it won't see much street time, so what does it really matter.
Shawn

[kenm78]

No matter what you choose brakes are only as good as they can dissipate heat! If you want more stopping power, and you said you are going with 20 inch rims go with oversized rotors

[724x4a/cchevy]

I say go for it. They will compliment your big wheels nicely.
Justin