changing blazer 4x4 to 2wd 1-10 difficulty?

[soala70]

I have been looking for ever for a 2wd found a 4x4 in great condition thinking of doing the swap any suggestions?

[Critter]

Don't do it! We are loosing 4x4s everyday. If you REALY want a 2wd, find a frame, a tub and the running gear and put it all together. Even if all you can find is a 4x4 frame that you have to alter, it is still better than taking a perfectly drivable K5 and hacking it up. Hopefully nobody hates on me for this...its just my opinion.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Critter

...is still better than taking a perfectly drivable K5 and hacking it up. Hopefully nobody hates on me for this...its just my opinion.

If you hadn't referred to it as "hacking it up" you might have not offended anyone. If he were to convert a 2wd to a 4wd would that still be acceptable or is he still "hacking it up"?

[Critter]

Originally Posted by soala70

I have been looking for ever for a 2wd found

soala70, not sure how far you are willing to drive, but I found this 2wd tucked away in a craigslist add in Cali. Alot of people might not find it when they run a search.

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/472821096.html

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

If you hadn't referred to it as "hacking it up" you might have not offended anyone. If he were to convert a 2wd to a 4wd would that still be acceptable or is he still "hacking it up"?

IMHO not acceptable...it would still be "hacking it up". And, as rare as the 2wd are it would probably be an even worse crime, but like I said, that's just my opinion.

[soala70]

I hate to but Ive looked for two years and found this one. I want to go 4/6 on the stance fatman front you think?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by soala70

I hate to but Ive looked for two years and found this one. I want to go 4/6 on the stance fatman front you think?

If your only going with 4/6 then use a 73-87 crossmember. If you want to go lower, consider the Porterbuilt "Dropmember".

[N2TRUX]

How low do you want to go? That will determine what front suspension you should use.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by soala70

I have been looking for ever for a 2wd found a 4x4 in great condition thinking of doing the swap any suggestions?

Lots of goods threads recently about doing that, I was gonna do it too but found a 2wd frame already.

Thread titles of a couple for ya:
*Porter Built Blazer
*4wd to 2wd in Three Weeks

Check em out, their both great swap overs.

[bouncytruck]

Go for it. I've been considering doing the swap on my 72. If I do go that route, it's going to be a couple years.

As far as "hacking" it up, it doesn't seem too different than putting 3/4 ton suspension with a lift, fender trimming, roll cage, etc.

[Critter]

First off, Soala70 I’m sorry that I got your thread side-tracked.

I will try to get my point across one last time and then I won’t annoy y’all anymore with it. I guess what I was thinking when I made the first comment is how I hate when you run a VIN and find out that what you bought isn’t what the vehicle originally was. If you never sell it, I guess it doesn't matter. It’s not a big deal, just a pet peeve of mine. Yes I’m partial to the 4x4s but I would buy an original 2wd in a HEARTBEAT (no Chevy pun intended ) and enjoy the heck out of it as I lowered it a little, put wider tires/rims, repainted it, etc. As far as the definition of “hacking”, I agree that cutting up fenders and welding cages to the frame qualifies a hacking. That’s why on my truck, other than a bolt on lift kit that can easily be reversed, there is very little that isn’t original or at least “couldn’t be put back to original”. Like I have said before, just my opinion, to each his own.

Soala70, I hope you get your dream 2wd either way.

[Rokcrln]

I say hack it, cut it, chop it, weld it or what ever you want to do that will make you get up inteh middle of the night and open the garage door just to get a peek at what you have built!

So for an answer to your question, if you have basic to advanced tools (air compressor, welder, grinder, salzall and full set of basic hand tools) than I say the conversion is a 4-6 on your scale. If you leave the leafs in back and go with lowered leafs and shackles (bolt in mod) for the rear. Up front you can go with all kinds of different ways from the cheap and easyier and just bolt in a stock 2wd crossmember and acc. to a bolt in DropMember with power rack and pinion, bags and what not. You will also want to pull the transfer case out and go with a 2wd trany. After that you and a buddy should be able to do the conversion in a few week ends.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Critter

I hate when you run a VIN and find out that what you bought isn’t what the vehicle originally was.

If you know what you're looking at, there is no way of EVER mistaking a conversion for the 'real thing'.

Originally Posted by Critter

That’s why on my truck, other than a bolt on lift kit that can easily be reversed, there is very little that isn’t original or at least “couldn’t be put back to original”.

Until very recently, when I modified my frame, there was nothing that couldn't be reversed. The 2wd conversion is easy and bolt on.

On that note, the easy and cost effective way to do this is to bolt in a front crossmember and suspension from a 1/2 ton truck. For the rear, simply flip the rear axle on top of the springs. This yields a surprisingly good ride. For a simple 4/6 drop, I wouldn't waste my time or money on high dollar aftermarket suspension pieces, when the factory stuff is just as good or better.

Oh yeah, 1-to-10. I'd say at most a 5 with one being a headlight swap and 10 being a frame off restoration. Probably more like a 4, it really is not hard at all, just time consuming.

My two pennies, good luck to ya- I say go for it. If you decide to do it and have questions, we will be glad to help, as long as you provide pics...

[vintagechevy76]

I am in the process of doing the same conversion. I just bought a half ton parts truck complete with the factory coil/trailing arm suspension and am just going to bolt in all the crossmembers needed and remove any brackets from the 4 wheel drive that arent needed. Its not a hard job as has been stated just time consuming. It is a bolt in deal. I am doing a frame off which makes it easier to get to everything. I also looked for a long time to find a factory 2 wheel drive with either no luck or way too much money and there are a TON of 4 wheel drives for less money, i think they can spare a couple.

[Jtrux]

Gotta agree with Critter on this one.

[tdkosta]

I say chopping it and giving it new life is less of a "crime" than the fate other blazers meet, that being sitting and rusting.

[bouncytruck]

I'd rather see this...



than this...

[Angelse68cal]

[NTR72GMC]

X2

[truckster]

I'm a 4X4 guy through and through- to be honest, I hate to see one lowered and can't see why you'd give up your ground clearance. Having said that, if that yellow thing is for real, someone belongs in an institution. Just my opinion.

ON THE OTHER HAND- A few weeks ago I gave away a truck with a decent cab and bed but a bad axle to another board member. All I wanted in return was for the truck to go to a good home. On my way back to my house I saw my truck on his trailer at a recycling yard. I guess some of us don't love classic trucks as much as others.

[bouncytruck]

The yellow thing is for real. It's on ebay right now. The photo is a link to the auction. There are actually a couple of these things on CK5.com. I'm all for a hard-core 4wd, but I don't see why a blazer tub needed to be sacrificed for that. You could just take a frame with a cage welded to it and then buy some used or aftermarket bedsides, hood & fenders and end up with the same result.

All this being said, I'd also hate to see too many end up like the full blow custom trucks that were posted in the SEMA thread.

[bigbluthng]

1. it's your truck. you can do whatever you want to it.

2. if you know what you are doing it's not hacking.

3.it's reversible if you don't start cutting on the frame. this depends on how low you wannna go. the only tell tale signs would be the bolts in place of the rivets.

4. as gringoloco said: it's a 4 on a one to ten. you'll spend more time measuring than anything.

5. go for it and have fun doing it.

i'm gonna redo the c notch on mine and go with a step notch. it's not low enough for me, not yet anyway.

[bouncytruck]

Alright, here's another ugly one, just for fun...

[68K20 x Drill]

I don't know why everyone thinks this is so involved or permanent.
Just take a wrench and unbolt the front driveline.
BAM!
Instant 2wd.
Air down the tires to about 2 PSI, and you should have a 4" drop.
If you change your mind, it can all be fixed in about the time it takes to drink a beer.

[bigbluthng]

Originally Posted by 68K20 x Drill

I don't know why everyone thinks this is so involved or permanent.
Just take a wrench and unbolt the front driveline.
BAM!
Instant 2wd.
Air down the tires to about 2 PSI, and you should have a 4" drop.
If you change your mind, it can all be fixed in about the time it takes to drink a beer.

darn, i knew there was an easier way!

[bouncytruck]

Originally Posted by 68K20 x Drill

I don't know why everyone thinks this is so involved or permanent.
Just take a wrench and unbolt the front driveline.
BAM!
Instant 2wd.
Air down the tires to about 2 PSI, and you should have a 4" drop.
If you change your mind, it can all be fixed in about the time it takes to drink a beer.