X-fer Swap Blues - Again

[1969K10]

So, for whatever reason, I was under the belief that the rear driveshaft was going to remain the same length when I replaced my T-221 with a NP205. Well, it ain't as most of you probably already know... Had I realized this, I probably would have just replaced the input shaft on my T-221, and had my beast on the road by now, and saved a A$$ load of $$$$$$!

Anyway, the NP205 has a rear output yoke designed for a carrier bearing set-up, as opposed to a 1-piece driveshaft slip spline shaft. Do I need to replace any of the components on the X-fer, or is it a matter of luck finding a slip yoke that'll fit it, and then getting the custom D-shaft?

My other thought was to relocate the carrier bearing mount, and then just shorten my rear section of D-shaft. Thoughts on doing this? (I was thinking I'd flip the carrier bearing support to go up from the bttm of the frame instead of down from the top like it was)

Anyway, I put new seals in the X-fer, and filled it & tranny up Saturday night, and no leaks!!!! Woo-Hoo!! (Gotta find something good out of all this chaos right now)

[68K20 x Drill]

If you search for NP205 slip yoke eliminator there are parts on the market, and I think you can bolt on parts from a non slip yoke 205.
I shortened a 1 piece shaft from a 73up truck on mine, and did not use the slip yoke.

[CUSTOM/10]

I would get rid of the slip yoke !!! You can do this by swapping the out-put shaft from another np205 or you can purchase a kit. Here's a link.
http://www.northwestfab.com/tcaseparts.html

I just rebuilt a t-case and swapped the out put from another case I had. One other thing to keep in mind is the location of the speedometer cable conection there in different locations on different out put housings.

Gary

[1969K10]

So I must have rambled too much.

I currently have the U-bolt flange on the end of my 205. I thought I needed to convert to a slip yoke. It looks like both of you are saying to stay away from the slip yoke.

If I stay with the U-bolt connections at both ends, what takes up the travel when the rear end compresses or droops?

[CUSTOM/10]

The rear drive shaft should be a two peice shaft ( No carrier bearing & no CV joint ) and a slip joint in the shaft.

Gary

[1969K10]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

The rear drive shaft should be a two peice shaft ( No carrier bearing & no CV joint ) and a slip joint in the shaft.

Gary

How do you have a 2-piece drive shaft, w/o a carrier bearing? Can I get some pics please? THX

Or are you talking like my front D-shaft is built?

[JAKES 68GMC]

When I went from the rockwell to the NP205, I didnt even touch the rear driveshaft, it worked fine.

[1969K10]

Originally Posted by JAKES 68GMC

When I went from the rockwell to the NP205, I didnt even touch the rear driveshaft, it worked fine.

I wish I had your luck!

[68K20 x Drill]

After 8 years, I just realized this is probably why the speedo in my truck doesn't work---The cable spins, but its 2 inches too short to reach the back of the gauge!
I bet it worked fine with the 221 case.

[1969k10stepside]

Here is what a stock design rear driveshaft looks like from a NP205 equipped truck..Mine was laying in the bed of the truck,and is just a little bit to short with the lift..Some of the splines stick out.This is off a shortbed,but gives you an idea as a longbed will have a similar driveshaft.Did you get the front driveshaft too? The one that was with the Rockwell will be too short...
Suppose to be getting a little snow storm tomorrow through Sunday..sucks you can't get the old truck out and have a little fun in the snow...I plan to.

[JAKES 68GMC]

My speedo cable worked fine too. Maybe I am alittle lucky...

[1969K10]

Dustin, thanks for the pics.

Looks like I'm going to be out some serious $$$ for a new rear drive shaft - %@&*