No Regrets - The Rebuild post

[smashingchuck]

Well, a few weeks ago I got the truck back in the shop. What started as a simple plan to make some inner fenders and pull the motor before it went to paint... has snowballed into a little more, and a little more. I had planned a "basic" tear down, but I'm going all the way with it now. Here's the first few pics. The plans call for cleaning the frame again, and painting it again. All the POR is pealing off the frame where I painted it the first time, so I have to strip it all over again. Plus all the under carriage is filthy from dragging. Also going to revamp the cosmetics of the motor before it is reinstalled, and I've got the new inner fenders about 1/4 of the way done. I've got most of the metal work done on the firewall, I've started shaving all the holes in the radiator support, and after all that I'll be filling all the holes on the insides of the fenders. The stock master cylinder and power booster is going to be mounted under the dash, I've got a slow start on that as well, but still waiting on some of the rod ends from Grainger. The new firewall is 1/8" thick on the drivers side so I can weld the pedals/master cylinder bracket to the inside of the firewall.

enjoy the first pics!

[Restrorob]

Sounds like a sweet plan !!!

But, One question for ya. Do you know the reason behind the POR peeling off the frame ? I'm sure not blowin money on that stuff if it wont stay on, I'll just have to take a chance on something else.

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by Restrorob

Do you know the reason behind the POR peeling off the frame ?

Honestly... no. I'd like to think it wasn't the way I prepped it, but that's the only thing I think it could have been. The crossmember was sandblasted before I painted it, and the spots on the frame where it is peeling off in sheets were cleaned with a wire wheel. It looks like it's not sticking to the stuff what was the cleanest. I didn't thin the stuff either - applied it in one coat with a brush and it looked great when it was done. This time around I'll be using industrial machine paint and a spray gun.

[cartman]

POR 15 works great on a rough surface, It does not stick well to a smooth surface. That's why it is pealing off where wire brushed, wire brushing leaves a polished like surface. If you want to apply it that way you need to use their metal prep/primer. also if it is used in a place where it's exposed to sunlight, it needs to be clearcoated or topcoated to resist uv rays ( just looses it's gloss). no problem using it on frames etc. cures very hard!

[BaddBusa2005]

I dig the tubular suspension.

[old Rusty C10]

could we get a couple of side views of it as it sits now? looks like a nice project you got goin there

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

could we get a couple of side views of it as it sits now? looks like a nice project you got goin there

here's what it looked like when I got it done in 2003. since then I've filled in the sunroof, shaved the tail lights, shaved the gas doors, tubbed it, and gave it a fresh coat of dp90.

the second picture is from last fall when some of the work was getting done on the bed. It still isn't really finished all the way, but it will get done when it goes to paint.

[gchemist]

Ditch the POR for ZeroRust. I did. Works better in my opinion!!

[spudz]

POR needs rust to bond to. thats actually its purpose.. to nutralize rust.. If the metal is clean.. it WILL flake off.

[boxrodz]

At least it didn't 'snowballed' into you powdercoating the frame...

Should look real fresh when you finish it.
(Seems like it always been 'unfinished' , but cool-looking.)

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by boxrodz

At least it didn't 'snowballed' into you powdercoating the frame...

Should look real fresh when you finish it.
(Seems like it always been 'unfinished' , but cool-looking.)

Yeah... it's always had that unfinished look to it... but that's really all it was and all I was going for. This time around It should look very finished.

[smashingchuck]

whelp, haven't' been getting a whole lot done lately, but do have some updates, and of course some pictures of what all is going on.

I got the brakes almost figured out, and a tacked together mock up of my master cylinder. I still have to disassemble it once I confirm everything works correctly and make a new bell crank, but for the most part (so far anyway) I think it will be fine. The new bell crank will be made from 1/4" steel and not the 1/8 I used for mock up.


I ended up using a master cylinder for an 85 equiped with manual brakes. I tried to fit the power booster under there, but it just want working out with everything else under the dash, even thought it physically would fit. I just couldn't get it to jive with my gas pedal, steering column, and the linkage to run it.

[smashingchuck]

I spent most of Saturday running down a new tailgate. This is the third and last one I think I'll buy. With the totally shaved "flat" gate that I had on there before, there really wasn't any definition to the ass end. I picked up a perfect gate for a 81-87 a few months ago... but still wasn't happy with the location of the embossed "Chevrolet". I finally got what I wanted, with in driving distance from a fellow board member. It's a NOS gate, and got it for a fair price as well!

Plan include a little straightening (even the factory gates have spot weld spots that aren't perfect) and flipping the handle to the inside. I need some guts for it if anybody has any laying around, PM me!

[smashingchuck]

Less recently, I've been working on the front inner fenders. They will accommodate a 28" tall tire with the truck laid on the ground. Sheet metal is not really my area of expertise, so these have been a good thing to learn on since they are under the hood and any blemishes will be less noticeable.

Even less recent is a close up of the tail lights that got done last winter.

[James McClure]

Smashing: Morning. Read my post on POR and listen to cartman. POR is good stuff. Was developed for the gov't (navy) years ago. I would love to know what they use now. Might be the same stuff but a different color. It's kind of a redish orange color. I first saw it on an early K5 blazer. The bottom of the truck was sprayed with it, EVERYPLACE, even inside the rear drums on the backing plates. The truck came off an aircraft carrier of all places and the navy washes everything with salt water except the planes and this thing didn't have a lick of rust on it. What would they use a K5 for on an aircraft carrier anyway?? Sure as hell there aren't any mud holes or hills to go 4 wheeling on or in. Anyone know?

[72BlckButy]

This thing is really coming together, keep it up! It looks good!

[old Rusty C10]

im impressed this is some cool custom work

[smashingchuck]

Just a quick mid week end update... I'm ready to hang the master cylinder/steering column/pedal bracket in, and snapped a few pics before I did so. Progress has been at a crawl... but I am moving forward. I've also been welding on the inner fenders, and both sides just need some finishing touches on the metal work.

[Captkaos]

Sweet, what master did you end up using?

[randyjohn]

where, by chance did you get your taillights? are they salvage or repros?

What would they use a K5 for on an aircraft carrier anyway?? Sure as hell there aren't any mud holes or hills to go 4 wheeling on or in. Anyone know?

i used to work in aircraft maintenance in the usaf and i would assume it's to tow around the airplanes, i.e. backing them into the catapults, to the elevators, on the maintenance deck, etc. why 4wd? i'm sure the deck can get pretty slippery. but i could be wrong.

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by randyjohn

where, by chance did you get your taillights? are they salvage or repros?

Hmmm... I think I got them from a eBay power seller who sells street rod stuff. They are reproduction, but they are very nice. I made the buckets out of exhaust pipe... cheaper than buying them and not hard.

Lots of people selling them on eBay, I also see the prices have some down on them since I got mine.

http://motors.search.ebay.com/59-cad...s_W0QQfromZR40

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by Captkaos

Sweet, what master did you end up using?

um.... I told them the specs on that parts truck you have. Got it next day for less than $50. I hope it works, otherwise I'll be doing some trial and error. The neat thing about this master cylinder (and what makes me think it will actually work) is that it actually has a "stepped" master cylinder. I have done some research and noticed that on more advanced manual braking set ups, guys use two master cylinders (one for the front and a larger bore for the rear). The factory had solved this problem by combining them on the manually equipped trucks... so at least to me it sounds like the perfect solution.... plus it's direct fitment. well, sorta

[randyjohn]

thanx for the answer. i was thinking about a later model cadillac taillight (late 80's, early 90's). do yo have one per side or two on each? was the wiring hard to figure out?

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by randyjohn

thanx for the answer. i was thinking about a later model cadillac taillight (late 80's, early 90's). do yo have one per side or two on each? was the wiring hard to figure out?

I have one per side. They just use an 1157 bulb, so the wiring is a piece of cake.

[randyjohn]

awesome. thanx for the input. one more ? in your thumbnail it looks like you have center caps (baby moons) but in the larger picture you posted there isn't. am i just seeing it wrong?