Trailing Arms vs 4 Link

[Oldironracing]

I know that a set of 4 link bars will make one hook-up under power. The trailing arms have been used in Nascar and truck for years. Can anyone help me with making the arms work or just save time and use what I know that will work and I know how to do the 4 link.

[LONGHAIR]

Adjustable shocks will help if you are street driving and racing. That way you can soften the compression of the rears and the jounce of the fronts for weight transfer when racing, then switch it back to be drivable on the street.

[PrerunnerRob]

That really depends on what you are trying to accomplish, but I'd go the 4 link route for most aplications.

[Oldironracing]

Come on guys I need help with these. What is some of the things ya'll have tried. Show me or tell me ..... Need the input........ Do I use the old trailing arms or build new ones? If I need to build new ones show me some of the ones ya;ll have built or give ideas.......

[PBFAB.COM]

Oldiron-

My recommendation on which way to go would depend on what your trying to accomplish. Are you looking for a comfortable ride; trying to putt gobbs of power to the pavement; trying to get it as low as possible; wanting something that'll take corners well????? Let us know what you want it to do and we can better help you!

[Oldironracing]

I wont it to take lots of power to out run the (buddy's 68 Chevy c/10 502 blower motor) and ride nice for that Saturday night cruse on the river market. Don't have a problem building a 4 link set up if thats the way to go. Just won't to do it right the first time.

[Super73]

There are a few guys on this site using the stock style rear suspension going real fast. By that I mean 9's and 10's. I'm on stock style rear suspension and recently clicked off a 12.33 @ 110 on the motor with a 1.87 60' dead hooked. I'm making some changes, shooting for 11.9x on the motor. I think with the bigger verter going in it might help get the 60' to high 1.6's to low 1.7's.

I'm running Competition Engineering 3-way adjustables all the way around. The front spring I swapped out for a HAL 14" 350lb spring. It stores a lot more energy than the lowering springs I had. The rear spring is a classic performance 2" lowering spring.

I'm also switching the rear tire from a 275/50/15 BFG drag radial to a 315/60/15 in hopes to hook it on the street a little better. I'll take that combo to the track with the bottle open before making a gear change.

[SCOTI]

To get trailing arm trucks to plant, you can: play w/spring rates, adjust the pinion angle, use the widest possible tires, swap in urethane bushings in the front trailing arm mounts, use front springs that quickly release stored energy (think Moroso 'trick' front springs), use drag/launch oriented shocks & shift weight from the nose to the rear bed area and put the truck on a diet.

The key when trying to launch big power is tuning for traction. Since most of these items will also apply when swapping in a 4-link, why not start w/these things & see how well the truck arms work.

An old buddy had a 427ci BBC w/a T400 & plate system in a 66 short fleet truck & achieved 1.6X 60's. Not too shabby for what it was.....

Super73, list your set-up (CID, heads, cam, intake, exhaust, trans type, gear ratio, power adder if any, tire/wheel sizes & compound, truck weight, list weight reductions if any, & any tuning performed.

[Super73]

There is a new section on the board that is hidden under engin called Racing/Dyno Section. It's intended for the racers on the board to discuss set ups, what works for them / doesn't ect. You can find my whole set up there.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...splay.php?f=60

In short though it's a LS1 powered 63 pick up that weighs 3,840 with me in it and makes 430rwhp on the motor.

I'm sure some of the faster guys will start chiming in soon..

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Super73

There is a new section on the board that is hidden under engin called Racing/Dyno Section. It's intended for the racers on the board to discuss set ups, what works for them / doesn't ect. You can find my whole set up there.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...splay.php?f=60

In short though it's a LS1 powered 63 pick up that weighs 3,840 with me in it and makes 430rwhp on the motor.

I'm sure some of the faster guys will start chiming in soon..

Huh... Didn't know about the racing/dyno section. I'll take a look.

[Oldironracing]

OK , I'm going to use the trailing arms with coil overs. I won't to make new trailing arms. What are the rest of you guys using to do these with? If you have any pictures or details you can share that would be great.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Oldironracing

OK , I'm going to use the trailing arms with coil overs. I won't to make new trailing arms. What are the rest of you guys using to do these with? If you have any pictures or details you can share that would be great.

Why the need for new arms? Or is it just a want?

[Super73]

I'm using the factory arms with factory bushings right now. The problem I see with using a square tube [] and poly bushing is they won't allow twist like the current design ][ If twist is not allowed in the arms and/or bushing then your going to run in to a suspension bind issue.

[Oldironracing]

OK,OK, Its just a want. But the tube ones look cool. No need I guess. What bushing is the best to use? What do I need to look for on the old trailing arms to see if there usable? What coil over and spring rat should I use?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Oldironracing

OK,OK, Its just a want. But the tube ones look cool. No need I guess. What bushing is the best to use? What do I need to look for on the old trailing arms to see if there usable? What coil over and spring rat should I use?

I think minimizing inconsistency is a primary goal so maybe get some urethane bushings from Energy Suspension.

As far as the arms themselves, check for signs of rot around the bolt holes & down the seam of the arm. If it looks like theres a gap between each of the arm 'halves' @ any point in their length, get different ones.

To beef things up w/o adding extra bulk, I run 2" weld beads approx every 10~12" down the center of the arms (top & bottom) starting just an inch or so from the front bushing sleeve. I also weld up the very rear of the arm from top to bottom.

[Tony@AirRideTech]

yup..... I would stick with the trailing arms and I would also put it on air..... it will give you much more tune-ability for both drag and street. Depending on how much power you are putting down you may want o consider going to a tubular arm or boxing yours.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Tony@AirRideTech

yup..... I would stick with the trailing arms and I would also put it on air..... it will give you much more tune-ability for both drag and street. Depending on how much power you are putting down you may want o consider going to a tubular arm or boxing yours.

Tubular (or equivalent) if new arms are needed. Boxing adds weight which is something C-10 trucks don't need. Keep in mind that simple plating like the factory 3/4 ton trucks works well (like ECE's trailing arm reinforcement kit).

[Oldironracing]

I have seen some on hear that is made out of tubing. Cant find them again to see what there making them out of. I think I'm going to use coil overs that are adjustably. I have some coil over springs left over from running the race car that I can use. Just don,t know what rate to start with (350lb or 375lb)??

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Oldironracing

I have seen some on hear that is made out of tubing. Cant find them again to see what there making them out of. I think I'm going to use coil overs that are adjustably. I have some coil over springs left over from running the race car that I can use. Just don,t know what rate to start with (350lb or 375lb)??

Coil-overs work well too but air bags shouldn't be dismissed as they offer easy tunability just by adding some air pressure. Once upon a time when I had CO's on my 67, I remember the spring rate being much lower (175~200#). I can't say if that was optimum since the truck only made it around the driveway several times before coming back apart for a frame off. I'm sure some others will chime in about optimum rates or you could try the race section in the engine/drivetrain forum.