drop pic

[OldschoolJay]

hey guys, there is a tonne to search through. thought i would ask here.
i am going to just drop my 70 gmc on the cheap. going to cut a coil up front and thinking of just buildinga 2" lowering block for the rear.
can someone post a pic if they have this set up to see if it is what i am after.
thanks a bunch
J

[60ratrod]

don't do it! cutting the spring ruins it. building the blocks for the rear is fine, but cutting the springs is bad. might ride fine for a bit, but you will need new springs. my advice is to just go get the springs.

[OldschoolJay]

i have cut a few before with no real ill affect. it is just my beater truck anyway.

anybody know if i can just replace the rear coil springs with some bags and just runa line with a shrader valve. then i can just drop it , and add some air whn i need to haul something?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by OldschoolJay

i have cut a few before with no real ill affect. it is just my beater truck anyway.

anybody know if i can just replace the rear coil springs with some bags and just runa line with a shrader valve. then i can just drop it , and add some air whn i need to haul something?

Both work well (cutting coils and/or using bags w/schrader valves).

Cut coils are ok if done in moderation. 1-coil typically nets 2 - 3" of drop & will increase spring rate about 20% over the stock rate which isn't bad. More than 1-coil & the suspension tends to bottom before the spring rate 'catches-up' meaning there's not enough spring rate vs. the amount of travel (so the ride quality tends to suck).

Bags w/schraders out back are an easy upgrade, they won't hurt the ride quality (they'll actually help it), & aren't much more $$ than aftermarket drop springs ($120 for steel springs vs. $200 for 2-bags + hardware).

Blocks are another good option for the rear since they offer drop w/o effecting the over-all shock travel. 2" blocks are about max for smaller diameter wheels though to keep things from hitting the pavement in the event of a blow-out/flat.

[Longhorn Man]

Originally Posted by 60ratrod

don't do it! cutting the spring ruins it. building the blocks for the rear is fine, but cutting the springs is bad. might ride fine for a bit, but you will need new springs. my advice is to just go get the springs.

Wow... never heard this before.
Cutting springs had been the norm from the 50's till the 90's when they started making lowering springs.
It's fine, chop them if you want... just remember to take small bites.

[60ratrod]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

Wow... never heard this before.
Cutting springs had been the norm from the 50's till the 90's when they started making lowering springs.
It's fine, chop them if you want... just remember to take small bites.

well i haven't heard too many good things about cutting springs is all. but i think that putting bags as opposed to springs should work out ok.

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

It's been 3 yrs. No ill effects.

1.5 > 2 coills up front.

2' blocks out back.

esll.

[Bob 68327]

5 years on my cut springs and I don't have a problem with em' !! I agree with longhorn man take small bites like 1/2 coil at a time untill you get it where you want !! I think I cut 2 or 3 coils I can't remember but my truck sat way high factory . Plus I dropped the spring in the lower controll arms !!! Anyway CUT EM' Bob

[CRUE's 67 LWB]

Originally Posted by EAST SIDE LOW LIFE

It's been 3 yrs. No ill effects.

1.5 > 2 coills up front.

2' blocks out back.

esll.

Do you have coils out back? Maybe a dumb queston but your truck looks just like mine and I have coils. I was thinking I could make blocks to put between the trailing arms and the diff.

[N2TRUX]

There is a BIG difference between cutting springs and heating springs. Cutting springs in small increments like 1/2 coil at a time is just fine. Heating them up and letting the sag to the preferred ride height is bad.

Been cutting coils with low, or no heat for years and never had a set collapse...

[Bob 68327]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

There is a BIG difference between cutting springs and heating springs. Cutting springs in small increments like 1/2 coil at a time is just fine. Heating them up and letting the sag to the preferred ride height is bad.

Been cutting coils with low, or no heat for years and never had a set collapse...

[69long"n"low]

My springs were cut 8 years ago by the PO and i dont have any problems just bottoms out if you hit railroad tracks a little fast

[OldschoolJay]

nobody has pics ?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by OldschoolJay

nobody has pics ?

Uhmm . . .... ESLL posted a pic of his 2-3" front & 2" rear drop in this thread. That's what your looking for right?

[CG]

I think cutting springs is way cheaper than bags. Especially when you add all the hardware, lines tanks etc. If its just your beater I wouldnt give it a second thought.

I wouldnt go with more than 2inch blocks in the for safety reasons like others have said.

I do find it amusing though when bag guys (not all of em, just the below scrub line guys) warn about using too thick of block in case of a flat tire. If these guys have a bag malfunction it would be just as bad or even more catastrophic than the lowering block only guys.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by CG

I think cutting springs is way cheaper than bags. Especially when you add all the hardware, lines tanks etc. If its just your beater I wouldnt give it a second thought.

I agree 100%; cutting coils is way cheaper. But . . ... For manual filled bags, all that's req'd are the bags, schraders, fittings, + DOT airline. Tanks, comp's, & electronics aren't needed. I've previously priced out a manual fill system on this board vs. dropped coils & there was less than $100 difference (& you can't adjust ride height w/coils).

They can be done on a limited budget.

[BurnoutNova]

me and some friends heated and completely removes the springs on a 74 c10 yesterday.. and cut all but one leaf in the rear... just to put up and down the street once... haha

the crossmember was littereally 1/2" from the ground, the sway bar was the only thing holding it up.

we were geting ready to pull the motor, and part it. it headin to the scrapyard tommorrow... if it will go on the trailor now, lol

[Spray-Bomb]

Bagged all the way around with no notch or blocks in the back
As long as you dont plan in riding very low you'll be fine without the notch

Rode nice too
I vote cut a coil up front & put bags in the back
you can look in Sinisters build thread to see how I bagged the back (I used schrader valves too)

[OldschoolJay]

cool, thanks for the tips.

[OldschoolJay]

yeh, his has coils out back like mine. and most gmc's. you can buy blocks as well.

[CRUE's 67 LWB]

Originally Posted by OldschoolJay

yeh, his has coils out back like mine. and most gmc's. you can buy blocks as well.

Who makes them? Or are they just regular steel lift/lower blocks. I have a shop in town here that makes u bolts so that is covered.

[Super-Dave]

I just got my blocks yesterday from stockcarproducts.com attached is a pic they are aluminum and 1.5 inches is all he has right now dont know when he will get 2s back in.

[BurnoutNova]

Originally Posted by OldschoolJay

yeh, his has coils out back like mine. and most gmc's. you can buy blocks as well.

most gmc's have leaf springs, and most chevys have the coils

[CRUE's 67 LWB]

Thanks for the info on the blocks.

[AlienYouth]

I cut 2 coils off of mine up front and bought 6" drop coils in the back, i think the stance is perfect...

front before...


front after...






every picture has some different color on the truck and they were taken within days of each other